FRUSTRATED: Axle Nut Help. UPDATED
03-31-2006, 04:18 PM
#11
Former Moderator
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...&f=22&t=374235
Not a TSB, but a paragraph in a service news article.
Not a TSB, but a paragraph in a service news article. 
03-31-2006, 04:30 PM
#12
Hmmm, I guess that's why there's no number. For us "laymen" a TSB, service news, memo or the like all sound the same.
We've got Fire Dept. memos, Admin notices. It took me a couple of years to figure out that these were different things.
We've got Fire Dept. memos, Admin notices. It took me a couple of years to figure out that these were different things.
03-31-2006, 04:36 PM
#13
Former Moderator
Sorry, for the I've just clarified it multiple times in the past year, this was the 1st
When you tell the service writer at a dealer it's a TSB, they look for it where all the TSB's are. 1/2 the service writers can't buy a clue, nor know what the hell a axle nut is. Then they can't find your TSB that isn't really a TSB.
The customer thinks they are a moron, cuz it's a TSB on S2ki.
If you want a dealer to find it for you, tell them to search under "axle nut creak" and the Honda ISIS system will find the article.
If you want to get the axle nut loose, leverage is what you need. A long pipe, breaker bar, and a friend to help out. If the nut was crossthreaded you may have to cut it off, and replace the outer CV joint.
I've just clarified it multiple times in the past year, this was the 1st When you tell the service writer at a dealer it's a TSB, they look for it where all the TSB's are. 1/2 the service writers can't buy a clue, nor know what the hell a axle nut is. Then they can't find your TSB that isn't really a TSB.
The customer thinks they are a moron, cuz it's a TSB on S2ki.
If you want a dealer to find it for you, tell them to search under "axle nut creak" and the Honda ISIS system will find the article.
If you want to get the axle nut loose, leverage is what you need. A long pipe, breaker bar, and a friend to help out. If the nut was crossthreaded you may have to cut it off, and replace the outer CV joint.
03-31-2006, 06:16 PM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by xviper,Mar 31 2006, 05:10 PM
With movement like you described, I'm also thinking wheel bearing on its way out.
I'm still at a loss as to why that nut is on so tight. When I did mine for the first time, it didn't take any torque at all to get it to turn.
I'm still at a loss as to why that nut is on so tight. When I did mine for the first time, it didn't take any torque at all to get it to turn.
Anyone know if I can take the new hub and bearing to honda and have them do it? Or maybe should I try to get them to do a good will fix.
I mean seriously guys, its bullshit for a wheel bearing to go out on a car with 27k miles. That pisses me off. I just lowered the car, that must have helped this process, I dont believe I was getting a clicking noise when it was stock height.
???????????
03-31-2006, 06:32 PM
#16
Can you describe this clicking in more detail. Does it do it when you just get going from a stop? Does it do it when you stop and reverse? Then again when you stop and go forward? This is more like the hub nut thing.
Or does it do it mainly when you accelerate moderately to hard, accompanied by some vibration coming from under the car? This would be more like CV.
On a year 2000 car, I doubt it. No harm in asking.
Don't get too depressed till you get a first hand opinion from a mechanic who can check it out for you. The lowering may have aggavated it, but that's hard to say for sure. It could also be a CV that's making the noise. Lowering can aggravate that, too.
I'm beginning to wonder now, why that nut is so hard to get off. Could it be that the bearing took a dump and the whole assembly is running extremely hot? Did you ever feel it to notice if that hub central area was putting out more heat than usual? Extreme heating and then cooling could cause the nut to be hard to remove.
Or does it do it mainly when you accelerate moderately to hard, accompanied by some vibration coming from under the car? This would be more like CV.
Or maybe should I try to get them to do a good will fix.
I mean seriously guys, its bullshit for a wheel bearing to go out on a car with 27k miles. That pisses me off. I just lowered the car, that must have helped this process, I dont believe I was getting a clicking noise when it was stock height.
I'm beginning to wonder now, why that nut is so hard to get off. Could it be that the bearing took a dump and the whole assembly is running extremely hot? Did you ever feel it to notice if that hub central area was putting out more heat than usual? Extreme heating and then cooling could cause the nut to be hard to remove.
03-31-2006, 08:10 PM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Beacon, NY
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mine was also very tight, I used a 3/4" breaker bar to loosen it. I wouldve broken my 1/2" breaker bar. When I retorqued them, the driver side didnt budge at all and the passenger side moved about 1/16 of a turn. I was cussing up a storm because obviously that was too little movement to solve my problem. But when I drove the car it was all better. That 1/16th of a turn made all the difference in the world. 
04-01-2006, 08:20 AM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by xviper,Mar 31 2006, 07:32 PM
Can you describe this clicking in more detail. Does it do it when you just get going from a stop? Does it do it when you stop and reverse? Then again when you stop and go forward? This is more like the hub nut thing.
Or does it do it mainly when you accelerate moderately to hard, accompanied by some vibration coming from under the car? This would be more like CV.
On a year 2000 car, I doubt it. No harm in asking.
Don't get too depressed till you get a first hand opinion from a mechanic who can check it out for you. The lowering may have aggavated it, but that's hard to say for sure. It could also be a CV that's making the noise. Lowering can aggravate that, too.
I'm beginning to wonder now, why that nut is so hard to get off. Could it be that the bearing took a dump and the whole assembly is running extremely hot? Did you ever feel it to notice if that hub central area was putting out more heat than usual? Extreme heating and then cooling could cause the nut to be hard to remove.
Or does it do it mainly when you accelerate moderately to hard, accompanied by some vibration coming from under the car? This would be more like CV.
On a year 2000 car, I doubt it. No harm in asking.
Don't get too depressed till you get a first hand opinion from a mechanic who can check it out for you. The lowering may have aggavated it, but that's hard to say for sure. It could also be a CV that's making the noise. Lowering can aggravate that, too.
I'm beginning to wonder now, why that nut is so hard to get off. Could it be that the bearing took a dump and the whole assembly is running extremely hot? Did you ever feel it to notice if that hub central area was putting out more heat than usual? Extreme heating and then cooling could cause the nut to be hard to remove.
The rear wheel bearings do not make any weird noise at all, no grinding or squeeling, so thats weird.
The only things I can find wrong is the clicking. The clicking is on takeoff and going in reverse. Sometimes I think I hear it when I shift gears but thats very hard to hear. The other issue is the play in the rear wheel. Im gonna try to get that nut off once more and retorque it. If that doesnt work I am gonna do a new wheel bearing and hub possibly upon inspection of removal. Problem is I still gotta get this nut off either way...im gonna crank up the air pressure on my compressor.
04-01-2006, 08:28 AM
#20
Originally Posted by hatch4raceb16,Apr 1 2006, 10:20 AM
The clicking is on takeoff and going in reverse.