hatch4raceb16

OK, So I did a full fluid change on my s2k today (engine,tran,diff fluid). I decided to give the axle nuts another try since I was out there working. Finally broke them loose with 140 psi and my Impact gun on the strongest setting. Took them off and greased and reinstalled. Thing I noticed is that when I put them back on at 221 ft lbs they werent on tight as before. Meaning the nut was turned slightly less than it used to be ( I could see this because of the Stake mark). Took it for a drive, still have the clicking.

What is my next option to figure this out? The noise is more like a pop click of sort.


Ill make this as short as possible. I believe I have the axle click. I will start by saying, I am very mechanically inclined and am not a moron so this post is not because of my stupidy.

I go buy a 36mm socket since I do not have one that big. I went a rented a 250 ft. lb. torque wrench. I am all prepared.

Go to break the axle nut loose. HOLY EFFIN STUCK.

I had my Impact wrench which is rated at 500 ft lbs (Ingersoll&Rand). Im sure it doesnt really work at 500 but its gotta be atleast half that. Nut wouldnt budge with that.

I used a 1/2 in drive ratchet with a small extension, and a 4 ft breaker bar attached to that with all my damn weight on it, broke the extension twice and the ratchet once.

HOLY SHIT IM FRUSTRATED. I wasted an entire afternoon trying to get this thing off just to retorque it.

Its obvious that these nuts have been retorqued previously so I am wondering if a Honda Dealership torqued them to some ridiculous amount like 350 or something.

WHAT DO I DO?????????????????????????

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Also.. on a side note, I am not even sure this click is the axle, its sounds EXACTLY like what people on here describe it as.

When I had the car jacked up I check the play in the rear wheels. The passenger was solid and could not be wiggled any which way.

The Driver side rear however seem to have a little side to side movement when you grasp the out side of the wheel and try to move it.

Is my bearing going out?

RandyP

Use more air pressure with the impact wrench. Use liquid wrench or equivalent on the nut/hub. Borrow a better impact wrench. Or, you can use a 1/2" breaker bar and pound on the breaker bar with a sledge hammer.

hatch4raceb16

Thats a good idea to raise the air pressure, I didnt even think of that. Damn.

With the click noise though... how can it be the axle nuts are loose when the damn things are as tight as they are?

xviper

Did you "undent" the "staked" part of the hub that holds the nut from turning? Maybe the last time it was done, the threads were not greased or anti-seized like they were supposed to.

hatch4raceb16

I did unstake it. Also, you may be very correct on the antiseeze.

Any insight on the second part of my post Xviper?

bills2k_2001

It seems as if a lot of us are having this problem. Why isn't there a service bulletin or tsb on this? the dealer i spoke with acted like i was crazy. i'm thinking i will try to replace the nut myself before i pay the dealer a ton of money to check it out.

s2kboy808

use a 1/2" or 3/8 breaker bar and use the jack handle for more leverage.


also i think there is a cotter pin in that you need to tap out w/a punch before breaking the nut

xviper

With movement like you described, I'm also thinking wheel bearing on its way out.

I'm still at a loss as to why that nut is on so tight. When I did mine for the first time, it didn't take any torque at all to get it to turn.

xviper

There is no cotter pin for the hub nut. It's just staked.

xviper

There is. Sorry, can't tell you the number.
Your dealer must be like mushrooms - kept in the dark and full of shit.

You don't have to replace the nut. You merely have to take it off, grease all the threads you see and put the nut back on with 220 lb/ft. The original torque was 181. That's how we know that the torque has changed. This information was passed onto all dealers in a TSB.