Front Upper Camber Arms or Lower Offset Ball Joint?
#1
Front Upper Camber Arms or Lower Offset Ball Joint?
Recently got another S as i missed it.
I had some hardrace offset ball joints on my old one with some weds 17x9 +49 wheels. I cleared the fender with minor roll and pull.
I am now going with some 17x9 +42 and i know i need a bit more roll and pull. If i go with upper camber arms, it should allow for more clearance as it pulls the wheel inside.
I have been looking it up and see, TruHart, Megan, K-Tuned. I like the Truhard and K tuned have a solid backing plate.
Any thoughts on the upper arms or should i just stick with the lower offset. I know ill need -3 degrees or so to clear.
I had some hardrace offset ball joints on my old one with some weds 17x9 +49 wheels. I cleared the fender with minor roll and pull.
I am now going with some 17x9 +42 and i know i need a bit more roll and pull. If i go with upper camber arms, it should allow for more clearance as it pulls the wheel inside.
I have been looking it up and see, TruHart, Megan, K-Tuned. I like the Truhard and K tuned have a solid backing plate.
Any thoughts on the upper arms or should i just stick with the lower offset. I know ill need -3 degrees or so to clear.
#2
Registered User
Many lower offset balljoints have the additional benefit of fixing roll center. I'm able to get around -5 or so with my Buddy Club ones, but I usually run -3 on the street. Another option to look into are offset upper a-arm bushings like Origin Fab or Baero make. It's a good bit cheaper than the Truhart or Ktuned arms, and it still utilizes OEM a-arms which are known to be quite durable.
#3
Many lower offset balljoints have the additional benefit of fixing roll center. I'm able to get around -5 or so with my Buddy Club ones, but I usually run -3 on the street. Another option to look into are offset upper a-arm bushings like Origin Fab or Baero make. It's a good bit cheaper than the Truhart or Ktuned arms, and it still utilizes OEM a-arms which are known to be quite durable.
#4
#5
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The problem I see with the bushings is that you'll be using plastic sliding bushings on a road car. Gross.
You could just use SPC (or similar rockauto options) upper joints. As long as you take the boots off and clean out the "grease" they supply and put in some decent grease, they'll work. Admittedly, the quality of these parts has gone way down.
I think Dorman makes an adjustable upper joint with decent looking boots that can keep water out? Idk about their grease.
You could just use SPC (or similar rockauto options) upper joints. As long as you take the boots off and clean out the "grease" they supply and put in some decent grease, they'll work. Admittedly, the quality of these parts has gone way down.
I think Dorman makes an adjustable upper joint with decent looking boots that can keep water out? Idk about their grease.
#6
The problem I see with the bushings is that you'll be using plastic sliding bushings on a road car. Gross.
You could just use SPC (or similar rockauto options) upper joints. As long as you take the boots off and clean out the "grease" they supply and put in some decent grease, they'll work. Admittedly, the quality of these parts has gone way down.
I think Dorman makes an adjustable upper joint with decent looking boots that can keep water out? Idk about their grease.
You could just use SPC (or similar rockauto options) upper joints. As long as you take the boots off and clean out the "grease" they supply and put in some decent grease, they'll work. Admittedly, the quality of these parts has gone way down.
I think Dorman makes an adjustable upper joint with decent looking boots that can keep water out? Idk about their grease.
#7
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
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The newer model SPC upper joints probably won't make it past the 5-10K mark if used in climates that see water on the roads. UNLESS you replace the grease they come with.
If you have the red boot ones...then...yeah, they will last.
Not sure where Porsche comes in, however. I doubt SPC is making parts equivalent to Porsche OEM for the $100/ea they charge.
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#8
The problem I see with the bushings is that you'll be using plastic sliding bushings on a road car. Gross.
You could just use SPC (or similar rockauto options) upper joints. As long as you take the boots off and clean out the "grease" they supply and put in some decent grease, they'll work. Admittedly, the quality of these parts has gone way down.
I think Dorman makes an adjustable upper joint with decent looking boots that can keep water out? Idk about their grease.
You could just use SPC (or similar rockauto options) upper joints. As long as you take the boots off and clean out the "grease" they supply and put in some decent grease, they'll work. Admittedly, the quality of these parts has gone way down.
I think Dorman makes an adjustable upper joint with decent looking boots that can keep water out? Idk about their grease.
#9
Lower = Offset ball joint/roll centre adjuster
Upper = Origin offset bushings
As far as I see it, those are the only two solid options. Not many positive stories come from SPC ball joints.
Upper = Origin offset bushings
As far as I see it, those are the only two solid options. Not many positive stories come from SPC ball joints.
#10
Join Date: Nov 2007
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ehh....
That's a pretty loose correlation....
The cars you're talking about were tracked heavily; most not even on street tires.
Some of those cars broke the arms with stock joints too.
Adjustable upper joints just happen to be an easy way to make a car fast. Fast cars break parts over time. Its logical that the SPC's longer design doesn't help the issue, I'll give you that.
But...have you ever seen any adjustable upper ball joint related failures on street driven S2000's that wasn't accident related? I haven't.
Race tires were also a common denominator in those accidents. So...if someone uses race tires on their street car...will the UCA's just snap even if they're not driving the car hard?
That's a pretty loose correlation....
The cars you're talking about were tracked heavily; most not even on street tires.
Some of those cars broke the arms with stock joints too.
Adjustable upper joints just happen to be an easy way to make a car fast. Fast cars break parts over time. Its logical that the SPC's longer design doesn't help the issue, I'll give you that.
But...have you ever seen any adjustable upper ball joint related failures on street driven S2000's that wasn't accident related? I haven't.
Race tires were also a common denominator in those accidents. So...if someone uses race tires on their street car...will the UCA's just snap even if they're not driving the car hard?