Fried ECU
10-28-2008, 06:15 AM
#11
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Change the spark plugs. Sounds like #1 is dead. If you have swapped coils and the problem stays with the #1 cylinder, then that spark plug is probably dead.
Make sure the ignition is working on all cylinders first. If #1 is still wet after you verify ignition, then I would guess #1 injector is acting up. Swap it with another to see if the problem moves with injector or stays at cyl #1. If problem follows the injector, replace it. If problem stays on cyl #1, then check the injector driver output at the ECU. Could be a problem with the wiring or bad connection. More likely is that is is clogged, held partially open by trash caught in the pintle.
I wouldn't trust a bad ECU diagnostic form some hottie who works at Advanced Auto parts, that's just me though. Where is this 5V signal you mentioned? What aftermarket standalone ECU is only $440? Why do you want aftermarket ECU anyway? Any ECU would have to be tuned for your car. That's why I would only replace it with a factory ECU. The factory has spent a lot of time tuning it. Unless you are adding boost or ITBs, stick with factory ECU. I highly doubt the ECU is your problem anyway.
Make sure the ignition is working on all cylinders first. If #1 is still wet after you verify ignition, then I would guess #1 injector is acting up. Swap it with another to see if the problem moves with injector or stays at cyl #1. If problem follows the injector, replace it. If problem stays on cyl #1, then check the injector driver output at the ECU. Could be a problem with the wiring or bad connection. More likely is that is is clogged, held partially open by trash caught in the pintle.
I wouldn't trust a bad ECU diagnostic form some hottie who works at Advanced Auto parts, that's just me though. Where is this 5V signal you mentioned? What aftermarket standalone ECU is only $440? Why do you want aftermarket ECU anyway? Any ECU would have to be tuned for your car. That's why I would only replace it with a factory ECU. The factory has spent a lot of time tuning it. Unless you are adding boost or ITBs, stick with factory ECU. I highly doubt the ECU is your problem anyway.
10-28-2008, 04:28 PM
#16
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I replaced the ECU after getting it tested by Honda, never can trust girls especially when they are good looking 
Honda reprogrammed the key and covered the ECU due to it being under warranty- ( If they had chose not to cover this the ECU from them would have cost me $800 and some change) Thanks for the heads up on that Dparm.
Lets just say I got a pass from the Stealership- this is my first and probably the last time I well ever get something done by them for free, they seem to always find ways to not cover costs... God knows I have heard about many of you other good S owners getting the runaround as well.
Additional information because this post can surely help someone in the future.
I could tell the ecu was fried after I checked her outputs with a common ohms meter. Comparing the voltages with the data I could find on it from the factory. My experience with these has shown me that they usually look dark or discolored around the case or wiring, from shorting out. In my case there was a small short internally which fused other connections together; no physical symptoms externally what so ever. Interestingly enough the bad ecu only failed to send the signal to fire to to the coil on cylinder number 1 rather than all of them at once.
I appreciate all the help guys ! If anyone has questions regarding this feel free to pm me and I can help walk you through some of the more technical steps I didn't have time to post.
Honda reprogrammed the key and covered the ECU due to it being under warranty- ( If they had chose not to cover this the ECU from them would have cost me $800 and some change) Thanks for the heads up on that Dparm.
Lets just say I got a pass from the Stealership- this is my first and probably the last time I well ever get something done by them for free, they seem to always find ways to not cover costs... God knows I have heard about many of you other good S owners getting the runaround as well.
Additional information because this post can surely help someone in the future.
I could tell the ecu was fried after I checked her outputs with a common ohms meter. Comparing the voltages with the data I could find on it from the factory. My experience with these has shown me that they usually look dark or discolored around the case or wiring, from shorting out. In my case there was a small short internally which fused other connections together; no physical symptoms externally what so ever. Interestingly enough the bad ecu only failed to send the signal to fire to to the coil on cylinder number 1 rather than all of them at once.
I appreciate all the help guys ! If anyone has questions regarding this feel free to pm me and I can help walk you through some of the more technical steps I didn't have time to post.
10-30-2008, 06:15 AM
#17
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Yeah the good looking ones usually have another drawback to compensate. A buddy of my always used the phrase "conservation of quality". Quantified into mathematical terms: beauty X brains X attitude = a constant value. Can't gain one value w/o giving up others.
Anyway, glad to hear you got it working. Good troubleshooting skills there, bud!
Anyway, glad to hear you got it working. Good troubleshooting skills there, bud!
10-30-2008, 06:24 AM
#18
I am also chasing the same issues with my carHard to start (little rich) needs a blip on the throttle
Idles at 14.7
CEL is on solid
AS soon as I touch the throttle to acc
Car hesitates bucks ( violently!!!!)
Then A/F pegs 10.1
Car will not acc ( due to over rich condition)
Got here home thank goodness it was a 2 block downhill coast with the motor off.
Only cell is a P1128 ( map voltage to low)
MAP voltage to low should cause the car to run lean not pig rich 
Injectors were sent off for inspection Checked ok
so next step is to replace everything else.
Coil packs are going to be replaced with multi spark coil on plug
and ECU is going to be replaced with a Hondata K-pro
If you were reading 5V on the ECU trigger to the coil packs then you are reading the correct voltage.
However
Did you read current granted the stock ECU is going to have a very limited current output but still is worth testing to see you have the correct current coming out.
Bad or low voltage to the coil packs is why Greddy has there jumpers set the way they do in side of the ULT on the coil pack trigger outputs.
A standard ohm meter is not the best way to measure the voltage the way you did ( assuming you had the motor running)
To bad one just can
) is kept on a batt maintainer since the car is only driven 1 day a week at most.