Fresh head build with issues! Help, please..
#11
I definitely agree with you when you say no need to hurry and tear the motor down again. Hopefully its something minor, instead of a defective headgasket. thanks again, stay tuned!
#12
Moderator
your back-up fuse is blown or missing this is why the CEL keeps going on and off. Data is lost each time, hence why pulling the fuse in the first place clears the data.
fix that then you can get your code.
fix that then you can get your code.
#14
You are correct sir, learned that the hard way lol. the past 2 days havn't had any kind of overheating problem nor a check engine light coming on. However, I do still have that odd miss. Not really a miss because the engine isn't really stumbling over itself, just an obnoxious on going popping noise. occasionally it will smooth itself out. I'm assuming that the cheap castrol gtx oil i put in it could be playing a part. I kind of was running low on funds at the end of this project and had to put cheap oil in it :/. its only until next friday (payday) though lol then its going to get its usual mobile 1. Hopefully that will make a difference in it.
#15
Update with the car... I finally was able to put mobile 1 in it, and also noticed that the headgasket is not leaking. The oil looked fine, and I have lost no coolant the past week. However, I still have an ugly miss with definite power loss. Before the car was driving great with plenty of power, but had the miss at idle. Now the car has a rough idle with a significant power loss. Im going to pull the injectors tomorrow and clean them out to see if one is possibly clogged.
some information that I did not add earlier: I ran the car for about 3 days with out the underside valve cover seals (the ones that seal off the sparkplug holes from oil getting in) because I ordered them saturday and unfortunately honda could not get them until tuesday. well.. after 3 days of driving, the oil filled up the spark plug holes. FML lol I had no choice but to drive the car to work those three days otherwise I wouldnt have done so. I cleaned the coil packs thoughly, as well as, the sparkplugs themselves. I let the oil that was in the spark plug holes to drain out in the cylinder (I was told it would burn out the oil, which it seemed like it did fine..) it now currently has a rough idle, as well as, power loss. I hope the oil didn't mess with the coilpacks.. I was told by Honda that it was risky, but in all probability safe until tuesday to drive.
some information that I did not add earlier: I ran the car for about 3 days with out the underside valve cover seals (the ones that seal off the sparkplug holes from oil getting in) because I ordered them saturday and unfortunately honda could not get them until tuesday. well.. after 3 days of driving, the oil filled up the spark plug holes. FML lol I had no choice but to drive the car to work those three days otherwise I wouldnt have done so. I cleaned the coil packs thoughly, as well as, the sparkplugs themselves. I let the oil that was in the spark plug holes to drain out in the cylinder (I was told it would burn out the oil, which it seemed like it did fine..) it now currently has a rough idle, as well as, power loss. I hope the oil didn't mess with the coilpacks.. I was told by Honda that it was risky, but in all probability safe until tuesday to drive.
#16
if you did not properly bleed it out before running you could have overheated and warped/cracked the head or block. The S2000 is not the easiest car to bleed out the cooling system. If your heather is not so hot you can not keep your hand in fron of the vent it is not 100% bled out meaning you can overheat EASY
Its got a catback exhaust, and a cheap wanna be "cold air intake" on it lol. Other than that it is stock, besides the head work. The only reason I haven't ran and checked the code is because i figured since every time I turn the car off the light goes off the computer would forget the code. Am I wrong about that? I'll go after class today and see if I can pull any codes from it. Unfortunately this is my daily and I'm having to drive it to work with the issues it is having. The overheating is very periodic (never gets out of control) as is the check engine light. However, the miss at idle is constant. I'll update once I try and read the codes today. Thanks for the help!
PS. I have not purged the coolant system yet, that was my first thought. The miss is what really lead me to think of the headgasket.
Originally Posted by 4forall' timestamp='1349280834' post='22055859
Need a little more information to try to diagnose your issue.
1. Everything else stock besides the annotated head work?
2. Did you purge the coolant system?
to me is sounds like you had air in the system and its causing you to overheat periodically. As for the check engine light, you need to go have it scanned to see what the code is. the code may tell you why you are having a misfire as well as the overheating problem. The cometic headgasket is fine, and so is the OEM. I have however heard a few peopl having issues with the arp studs due to stretching and needing to retorque them.
I wouldnt run and pull your head off your car just yet. Also wouldn't drive it with it overheating. Report back once you scan that code.
1. Everything else stock besides the annotated head work?
2. Did you purge the coolant system?
to me is sounds like you had air in the system and its causing you to overheat periodically. As for the check engine light, you need to go have it scanned to see what the code is. the code may tell you why you are having a misfire as well as the overheating problem. The cometic headgasket is fine, and so is the OEM. I have however heard a few peopl having issues with the arp studs due to stretching and needing to retorque them.
I wouldnt run and pull your head off your car just yet. Also wouldn't drive it with it overheating. Report back once you scan that code.
Its got a catback exhaust, and a cheap wanna be "cold air intake" on it lol. Other than that it is stock, besides the head work. The only reason I haven't ran and checked the code is because i figured since every time I turn the car off the light goes off the computer would forget the code. Am I wrong about that? I'll go after class today and see if I can pull any codes from it. Unfortunately this is my daily and I'm having to drive it to work with the issues it is having. The overheating is very periodic (never gets out of control) as is the check engine light. However, the miss at idle is constant. I'll update once I try and read the codes today. Thanks for the help!
PS. I have not purged the coolant system yet, that was my first thought. The miss is what really lead me to think of the headgasket.
#19
ok.. so after a good valve adjustment the car has somewhat returned to normal. The valves were extremely loose come to find out. spark plugs looked normal, compression is solid. after the valve adjustment the car is much quiter and isn't missing no where near as much. However.. there is a significant power loss. There are two codes that I was able to pull today. I cant remember the number codes, but do remember what they were for. The first one was for "malfunctioning knock sensor". which is weird, because naturally we broke it during dissassembly. so I replaced it with one I bought off of ebay thinking it would be fine (trying to save cost lol). I guess I was wrong? would a knock sensor cause a significant power loss? which includes odd jerking when ever I shift. The second code was "incorrect secondary air flow" or something like that. I'm assuming its refering to the hvac system? Perhaps I have a hose connected wrong? which I find hard to beleive.. is there anything else that can cause this code?
Its so close to being perfect! just having to work the kinks out of it now.. thanks for the help guys!
Its so close to being perfect! just having to work the kinks out of it now.. thanks for the help guys!
#20
Registered User
I would bet if it detects a bad knock sensor, timing would be retarded into a safe "limp" mode. There would be a significant power loss if this were to happen. I'm not that up-to-date on the S2000 though, just my best guess.