forgot silicone when replacing headgasket!
#21
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I think I just got a new stroke of genious being the baller mother f***** I am, ill just drop the front timing chain cover and applu the sealant there bc the top of that cover is where it says to apply it anyway! So this way my headgasket will be safe and I can still put on the sealant.... sound about right?
#22
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jan 16 2011, 06:37 PM
Sorry, No SAE Engineer would recommend not to use RTV silicone sealant in needed in this application.
I certainly use silicon sealant for engine builds. But only in specific areas. I have my reasons and experiences why I didn't use silicon sealant where the head gasket is.
We could have had a technical discussion above silcone sealing and specific areas where silicone is bad. But unfortunatly you decided to rant against other posters here in this thread instead of asking why.
#23
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Please try to stay on topic guys. I think everyone took a pride hit here from some harsh words. But please call it even and try to get to the bottom of the subject. I'm just searching for information.
#24
Yea. Dropping the front cover is what I would have done. Good call. I had to replace my timing chain guide and add sealant to the top of the front cover. It is not like im going to tear off the head to add the silicon.
#25
Originally Posted by bpaspi,Jan 16 2011, 11:35 AM
I never said so. I wrote that I didn't use silcone sealant and I meant in this specific area of the head gasket.
I certainly use silicon sealant for engine builds. But only in specific areas. I have my reasons and experiences why I didn't use silicon sealant where the head gasket is.
BTW, what means "in needed in this application"?
We could have had a technical discussion above silcone sealing and specific areas where silicone is bad. But unfortunatly you decided to rant against other posters here in this thread instead of asking why.
I certainly use silicon sealant for engine builds. But only in specific areas. I have my reasons and experiences why I didn't use silicon sealant where the head gasket is.
BTW, what means "in needed in this application"?
We could have had a technical discussion above silcone sealing and specific areas where silicone is bad. But unfortunatly you decided to rant against other posters here in this thread instead of asking why.
#26
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Best bet i can say is drop the oil pan again and tc cover. That way you can put hondabond around the top cover and bottom. Also don't forget to put some each corner. That's what i did before. gl
#27
Originally Posted by ap1tuner,Jan 16 2011, 04:20 AM
So thanks for trying to call me an idiot. I'm sure ur purfect, now if u don't mind promptly leaving this thead immediately. Have a great day mr perfect!
Aren’t we all idiots? It’s possible that I have screwed up more things then you have fixed. I’m far from perfect. I was “just saying”.
You know what they say about hope? It only brings eternal misery.
We have enough misery without adding more by hoping.
I really wish you get your car up and running. I love seeing other S2000s on the road.
#28
FWIW, I've noticed that on some F20C the alignment of the head facing surface of timing cover and block isn't exactly the same. In some cases there have been as much as 0.002- 0.005" difference. I would have thought that they were machined together as pairs so would be exactly the same. Perhaps there is some relaxing of the materials with heat cycles. The timing cover was alway lower than the block.
When I rebuild engines I deck the block/timing cover enough to clean up the deck surface. This removes any compression marks from the gasket and ensure a good surface. Unfortunately this cannot be done with the engine in the car.
This leads me to speculate that the sealant is required to make up any differences in height between the timing cover/block. Further to this, if you deck the block/timing cover so they are in alignment this allows you to get away without any sealant as the gasket is compressed sufficiently to seal correctly in that area.
Getting back to the original post. If you have already run up the engine, sacrifice a chicken or goat to the gods of speed and wait and see if it leaks or not.
When I rebuild engines I deck the block/timing cover enough to clean up the deck surface. This removes any compression marks from the gasket and ensure a good surface. Unfortunately this cannot be done with the engine in the car.
This leads me to speculate that the sealant is required to make up any differences in height between the timing cover/block. Further to this, if you deck the block/timing cover so they are in alignment this allows you to get away without any sealant as the gasket is compressed sufficiently to seal correctly in that area.
Getting back to the original post. If you have already run up the engine, sacrifice a chicken or goat to the gods of speed and wait and see if it leaks or not.
#29
I've seen cars come into the shop looking like the damn Exxon Valdez because no sealant was used on machined surfaces, such as timing chain covers, camshaft end cam caps, valve cover gaskets where they form a 180 degree arch, etc etc. Honestly, I would not risk it. My .02.
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#30
Originally Posted by shandy7894,Jan 17 2011, 05:07 AM
I've seen cars come into the shop looking like the damn Exxon Valdez because no sealant was used on machined surfaces, such as timing chain covers, camshaft end cam caps, valve cover gaskets where they form a 180 degree arch, etc etc. Honestly, I would not risk it. My .02.
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