s2kdriver80

5mm allen key to remove the coil cover


10mm socket and ratchet to unbolt the coil pack



I've never really worked on the car by myself before but I'm trying to be prepared in case one of my coil packs goes when I'm 50 miles away from home (I have 170k+ on the originals). Are these three tools enough to get at the coil pack?

Question about the socket/ratchet... what drive size do you recommend? 1/2, 3/8, 1/4 inch sizes seem to be common. Do I need one of those 3-inch extensions, or not necessary?

Do I need to disconnect the battery, just to replace the coil pack? I've heard it needs to be done for spark plug replacement, but what about for just coil pack changes?

And lastly, do I need a tool to precisely torque down the coil cover bolts and the coil pack bolt? Or is hand tightening sufficient to get me home?

And other recommendations? Already have an OBD2 reader and a flashlight in case I break down at night. Thanks.

Billman250

No need to disconnect battery for spark plugs, or coil packs.

1/4" drive is best. Hand tight is good. I recommend NO torque wrench. Not needed.

No extension necessary, but a 3" long 1/4 drive extension will make it easier. Less chance to scrape knuckles.

-remove coil cover with 5mm allem key.
-remove 10mm head bolt with ratchet.
-lift coil pack 1", unplug connector by squeezing clip and pulling.
-lift out coilpack.

-reverse order to install.

TIP!!! this should be done on a warm engine, as the electrical clip release button on the connector can easily break if its not warm. In an on-the-road situation you will be fine.

If its home and its cold, warm up the connector with a hair dryer till its warm to the touch before removing.

s2kdriver80

Thanks Bill and thanks for letting me know about those three tools.

I hope that little flimsy 5mm allen key has even torque to unscrew your tightening job from last time haha. And knowing my luck, I'll probably strip the bolts.

If I've been driving the car for at least 15-20 minutes, the engine is going to be scalding hot - should I carry oven mitts in the car if I don't want to wait a half hour for things to cool down? Or is the coil area manageable in terms of heat?

And... P0301 is cyl#1 misfire, P0302 is cyl#2 misfire and so on, right? I know those codes don't mean it's necessarily the coil pack, but if the coil pack goes bad, it would throw those codes, right?

Billman250

yes. a bad coil pack will throw a code right away for the cylinder that it is on. P0301 for number 1, etc..

I can manage, heat is not terrible. Thin mechanics gloves will be more than enough for you to handle the hottest coil pack job. No need to wait for cool down, go to work right away.

There is also a 1/4" drive, 5mm allen socket you can put on your ratchet. They are typically stronger. VIM tools makes a set, they are hard as diamonds and never strip.

s2kdriver80

Cool thanks... something like this...

http://www.sears.com/gearwrench-1-4-...p-00992027000P

Billman250

yes yes

zeroptzero

I have used a torque wrench every time I've removed the coils to avoid over tightening, 84 inch lbs on a 3/8 ratchet torque wrench works well. Hand tight on a 1/4 inch drive ratchet is good too, I just think too many people go overboard on tightening and the small bolts are susceptible to stripping if you use too much force with a larger ratchet. Hand tight or tool tight is something that you learn over the long term after you've felt a stripped bolt or two.

Great tip on the heating up the engine for the harness clips, that has always been my fear , breaking off one of those plastic clips which can get brittle in cold temps.

s2kdriver80

Just to make sure, cylinder #1 is the one toward the front of the car and #4 is the one to the rear closest to the passenger cabin, yes?

Adionik

I changed out all the coil packs in a dealer parking lot (When they wanted $700 for the job) in about 5 minutes. You'll be good, just wear gloves incase the car was driven before.

rrounds

Yes

ROD