Is flushing the gearbox and diff a good idea?
#1
Is flushing the gearbox and diff a good idea?
My fluids have been way too long in the gearbox and diff (several years). Now im picking new fluids and will change the fluids soon myself.
Will all the fluid and dirt come out by simply letting it poor out via the drain hole? Or will it be wise to buy an extra quart (litre) to "flush" thru the gearbox and diff with the drain hole still opened, so it can wash out all the dirty old fluid that is left behind?
And I mean to flush it with the same oil that I will use to fill. Nothing else. So just pooring it in freshly after full drain and letting it drain again to pick up all the leftovers to get a clean fresh start.
Worth the money or am I just wasting money?
Please advise. Thanks!
Will all the fluid and dirt come out by simply letting it poor out via the drain hole? Or will it be wise to buy an extra quart (litre) to "flush" thru the gearbox and diff with the drain hole still opened, so it can wash out all the dirty old fluid that is left behind?
And I mean to flush it with the same oil that I will use to fill. Nothing else. So just pooring it in freshly after full drain and letting it drain again to pick up all the leftovers to get a clean fresh start.
Worth the money or am I just wasting money?
Please advise. Thanks!
#2
If it makes you feel better... just run the next change for say, 500 miles. Then, go to regular intervals after that. I've done that with newly rebuilt engines.
#3
It is important the car is flat right? Or can you change the diff and gearbox by just raising the rear? Ive hear it needa to be flat level.
#4
Just pouring through new oil would be a waste, I would just do the next change a bit earlier. You will know how much work it is by then and if it's worth it
Yes car needs to be level.
Might be worth going to a diy garage with a lift if you have those were you live, it wont take much time so shouldn't be expensive.
Yes car needs to be level.
Might be worth going to a diy garage with a lift if you have those were you live, it wont take much time so shouldn't be expensive.
#5
Just pouring through new oil would be a waste, I would just do the next change a bit earlier. You will know how much work it is by then and if it's worth it
Yes car needs to be level.
Might be worth going to a diy garage with a lift if you have those were you live, it wont take much time so shouldn't be expensive.
Yes car needs to be level.
Might be worth going to a diy garage with a lift if you have those were you live, it wont take much time so shouldn't be expensive.
Can I just reuse the old washers or do i need to buy new ones from the dealer or carshop?
#6
Registered User
Honda specifies these washers are one time use. They're available on line. These are crush washers with a specific torque setting needed. You should get a new engine drain plug washer when you buy the genuine, specific Honda S2000 oil filter at a Honda dealer. Make sure the parts guy includes it.
Someone whose notes are handier than mine will post the Honda part numbers and several others will chime in that they've been using the same washers for years and don't bother with a torque wrench either.
Oil is cheap and flushing out these areas with an extra quart of oil certainly won't hurt. I agree with a short maintenance cycle recommendation since you have some concerns. Change 'em all again in 1000 (2000) miles. You'll have time to find a facility in that time. And hopefully a place to garage your car every night. As noted oil is cheap.
-- Chuck
Someone whose notes are handier than mine will post the Honda part numbers and several others will chime in that they've been using the same washers for years and don't bother with a torque wrench either.
Oil is cheap and flushing out these areas with an extra quart of oil certainly won't hurt. I agree with a short maintenance cycle recommendation since you have some concerns. Change 'em all again in 1000 (2000) miles. You'll have time to find a facility in that time. And hopefully a place to garage your car every night. As noted oil is cheap.
-- Chuck
Last edited by Chuck S; 10-27-2018 at 04:30 AM.
#7
Moderator
More effective than a flush, is warming up the car with a drive.
Any particles will settle to the floor of the dif/trans/engine as the car sits. If you drain them cold, oil suction will hold these contaminants in place and they will not come out.
Warming up the car brings these contaminants into suspension in the fluid, so they come out during draining.
Warm the car, have your tools/ramps ready, and drain fluids immediately after shutdown.
As far as washers, you can reuse if you know how to inspect. A washer that is in good shape will be thick, and lift off the plug.
75% of the washers I see for engine/dif/trans are re-useable. Replace if unsure.
Any particles will settle to the floor of the dif/trans/engine as the car sits. If you drain them cold, oil suction will hold these contaminants in place and they will not come out.
Warming up the car brings these contaminants into suspension in the fluid, so they come out during draining.
Warm the car, have your tools/ramps ready, and drain fluids immediately after shutdown.
As far as washers, you can reuse if you know how to inspect. A washer that is in good shape will be thick, and lift off the plug.
75% of the washers I see for engine/dif/trans are re-useable. Replace if unsure.
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#8
I typically pour in a little oil after the drain to try and flush out anything that might have been left behind. Not by any means a whole quart. Just like a pump or two (I use a hand pump that fits in the bottle).
I usually do this with engine oil too.
My reasoning is that while the initial draining pours out vigorously, and would carry with it anything in suspension, at the end of the draining its just a light stream. It might not have the momentum and might leave some contaminants at the edge of the drain. Pouring in a bit to get one last high momentum flow might take whatevers there with it.
Perhaps its foolishness, but if its wasting anything, its not much.
I usually do this with engine oil too.
My reasoning is that while the initial draining pours out vigorously, and would carry with it anything in suspension, at the end of the draining its just a light stream. It might not have the momentum and might leave some contaminants at the edge of the drain. Pouring in a bit to get one last high momentum flow might take whatevers there with it.
Perhaps its foolishness, but if its wasting anything, its not much.
#9
I try to drain everything when warmed up like Billman says. Someone trained me to do it that way as a kid. I think it seems to drain quicker and more completely. I never realized it also pulls out contaminates better. Makes total sense.
#10
Its always good practice to drain oils after they're at operating temp.