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At stock rideheight I don't need to raise the car to do the diff. But I will raise the car on 4 jackstands and 2 jacks to do the transmission fluid.
I didn't use jacks for the tranny fluid change, I can reach all plugs from the driver side with a good stretch, I do jack up the car a few inches so I can get the drain and fill bolts off the tranny, but the wheels are not off the ground and the car is not in a dangerous position. Then I fill it from the engine bay using a funnel and clear hose, easy as pie and better than pumping it in and I don't have to spend time under the car.
Last edited by zeroptzero; 12-02-2018 at 09:41 AM.
I didn't use jacks for the tranny fluid change, I can reach all plugs from the driver side with a good stretch, I do jack up the car a few inches so I can get the drain and fill bolts off the tranny, but the wheels are not off the ground and the car is not in a dangerous position. Then I fill it from the engine bay using a funnel and clear hose, easy as pie and better than pumping it in and I don't have to spend time under the car.
How do you get the hose in the fill hole, through the engine bay? Or do you put in one end in the fill hole and feed the other end up the engine bay? Also how can you tell when the trans is filled from the EB? I have to do trans fluid soon so I will try your method.
How do you get the hose in the fill hole, through the engine bay? Or do you put in one end in the fill hole and feed the other end up the engine bay? Also how can you tell when the trans is filled from the EB? I have to do trans fluid soon so I will try your method.
snake the hose down before removing the bolts. remove the fill bolt and drain bolt. replace drain bolt. ut hose into fill bolt. keep drain pan under. put car down, fill from top. when fluid comes out the fill hole, then stops running. its full.
same for the diff. you fill it until it comes out of the fill hole. when it stops coming out of the fill hole its leveled and full and you replace the fill bolt.
trans and diffs are less about x amount and more about being filled level with the bottom of the fill bolt...
snake the hose down before removing the bolts. remove the fill bolt and drain bolt. replace drain bolt. ut hose into fill bolt. keep drain pan under. put car down, fill from top. when fluid comes out the fill hole, then stops running. its full.
same for the diff. you fill it until it comes out of the fill hole. when it stops coming out of the fill hole its leveled and full and you replace the fill bolt.
trans and diffs are less about x amount and more about being filled level with the bottom of the fill bolt...
Yeah that is pretty much how I do it. I jack up the car a few inches so I can reach under from the driver side to remove the drain and fill bolts, then I reinstall the drain bolt. I insert a clear hose into the end of funnel and then feed the hose down towards the ground , from just beside the intake manifold and the funnel sits pretty straight. Then I go under and fit the hose into the fill hole, then go back up and dump 2 bottles of fluid into the tranny. I dump the recommended level into the tranny , any extra will drip out if needed. I can take measurement of my hose if needed, I also use it on my Integra for it's tranny fill. I prefer this on the tranny over pumping 2 bottles by hand.
I tried doing the diff once using a hose and funnel but my LE1605 was thick as molasses and took a long time to fill, I would fill from the rear dirver side just above the outside of the wheel well with the wheel removed, filling the diff by hand with a pump is easy enough though so I kept using the pump method on the diff over the hose and funnel.
This thread casts my mind back to my youth when the jack stands of choice were cement blocks, and we would all remind each other to always place the blocks under the frame oriented with the holes oriented vertically because if they were horizontal the block would easily collapse and kill the poor guy trying to save a few bucks doing his own maintenance. Finally we realized that cement blocks are not safe. Period.
This is serious business folks. Do it right. Have a back up fail safe. Be very careful.
I've never heard this. Theoretically, one of the teeth could sheer, but you'd land on another tooth. And you'd have three other stands as backup. On your "lock pin" ones, once a pin sheers, you're toast until it bottoms out?
Both scenarios are unlikely.
As a community of enthusiasts, I think we should stick to simply advocating proper use of jack stands, on proper jack points, with proper quantities (4x at a time, not 2x at a time).
I used to cringe when I would see my borther-in -law working under his vehicles with just a jack holding it up, luckily he never had the vehicle come down on him but it was such a risk.
I've never heard this. Theoretically, one of the teeth could sheer, but you'd land on another tooth. And you'd have three other stands as backup. On your "lock pin" ones, once a pin sheers, you're toast until it bottoms out?
Both scenarios are unlikely.
As a community of enthusiasts, I think we should stick to simply advocating proper use of jack stands, on proper jack points, with proper quantities (4x at a time, not 2x at a time).
no the teeth dont sheer. the tiny ass pin holding the tooth to the lever sheers. they're tiny and rust easy with moisture in the air. I am talking about the tiny spring cotter.
12-02-2018, 09:31 AM
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