bgoetz

Everything seems typical except the lead. At that level is there any immediate concern? Thoughts where else it could have come from? Coincidentally I noticed an intermittent rattle that use to only occur on startup is now all the time. I am thinking TCT and was in the process of getting one from Billman, but gosh hope it isn't a dang bearing.

Engine has 135k, 240 compression across all cylinders, and made good power on the dyno. Has a HFC, intake, UK exhaust, and VAFC tuned. I did add a fuel injector cleaner and it was a cold change, so not sure if either of those could have effected things?

Slowcrash_101

I would not worry in the least. What kind of rattle are you talking about? Like a metallic knocking sound?

bgoetz

Yeah, I would make a video, but no need it sounds exactly like this here:

http://youtu.be/-H4EPpsKfOw

It would normally not concern me, as it use to just sound like this cold, but right after my oil change it is all the time and has become more noticeable. It isn't the pullies as I took the belt off and still got the sound (although another tick went away). This is my 2nd S2k and have never had a TCT issue, this one has 135k and to my knowledge has the original TCT, so I think I will start there and just ordered a Billman TCT

bgoetz

I am also going to toss new bearings in the pulleys. If that doesn't remedy the sound I am just going to drive it till whatever it is gets worse, lol

bgoetz

The more I read the more likely it seems the injector cleaner ran about 200 miles prior could maybe be the source of the lead.

SpitfireS

I hurt my neck reading the reports.......
The engine oil is pretty close to a 20 weight, so not very shear stable.
If the HTHS is also not that high (and not that stable) it may be another reason for the lead.

bgoetz

Spitfire, pardon my ignorance, but how does that cause high lead? Not debating, I just actually want to know

SpitfireS

Well....
4-5 years ago it would have been safe to say the 0W-30 oil would be the better one.
Compared to the 5W/10W oil in the same product range.
Mainly better in base stock, they had to use better base stock to meet the 0W spec.
Those base stocks were (are) GRP-IV or V, being POA or Ester.
So the oil needs less (or non at all) viscosity index improvers (VII = chemicals) to be thin when cold.
It looks like those days are gone.

Base stocks, and especially the GRPIII (dino origin, it gets hydrocracked or other fancy procedures) got better and reached a wider viscosity range.
So it was now possible to make a 0W-30 using GRPIII base stocks.
Depending on the base stock it's possible those 0W-30's need VII to stay thick when they get hot.
Without those VII the oil gets thin, (too thin) when hot.
"Building" an oil with true syn base stocks usually means you need VII to thin when cold.
IF you need them at all with a good quality base stock.

So there you are, using a 0W-30 and you're looking at your first UOA.
"Use a 0W".... they said.
"It's better".... they said.
And you're staring at 9ppm lead.
WTF!
Well...
Let's say your UOA came back with 5 ppm lead (everything else the same)
Nothing to worrie about, great report!
"See.. 20 weights are fine in the S2000"
A small difference of 4pp makes you wonder.
4ppm, that's not a lot.
The amount of lead in this > . < dot is enough to make 4 ppm in your oil (just guessing, someone should do the math)
So on one hand, there is nothing to worrie about with 9ppm.
That said....
Your Mobil1 AFE 0W-30 starts life at 10.9 cSt @100C.
And it came back @ 8.86 cSt, that's an 18% drop.
Also, the HTHS is "only" 3.0, for a 30 weight that's not that high.
I think this is actually by design as AFE stands for Advanced Fuel Economy.
IOW: thin oil needs less power to turn in a crank journal = fuel saved.

When I compare Amsoil SSO with your Mobil1 I see a lot of difference.
And they're both 0W-30.
Not all 0W-30's are equal, not anymore.

Now.. to answer your question.
If.. IF.. the HTHS of your oil also took a hit during your OCI it MAY have been getting into levels that MAY not be comfortable enough.
IOW the layer of oil keeping parts apart may have been partly broken here and there.
In a crank journal that usually means lead.

To be honest I would not know what to use for oil.
I still have enough SSO to do a change and some for top-up.
It would take some serious reseach again to find an oil I would want to use.
That may even be a 5W!
Yes, I believe some 5W are actually 0W, but are labelled 5W for marketing reason only.
If I look at some CCV values of modern 5W oils, all I think is "Okay.. this would pass the 0W test too if you ask me"
But that's an entirely different discussion.