First accidental downshift over-rev
#11
"FWIW, this is an AP1, and I drove the remainder of the road (5 miles) as if nothing had happened (i.e. mostlly up past vtec crossover)."
Really good idea driving this hard after mechanically over-revving. Why don't people understand once you abuse the car to the max, continuation won't help. Well good luck hope things work out
Really good idea driving this hard after mechanically over-revving. Why don't people understand once you abuse the car to the max, continuation won't help. Well good luck hope things work out
#12
Originally Posted by jdnissanz,Jul 31 2006, 09:56 AM
Really good idea driving this hard after mechanically over-revving. Why don't people understand once you abuse the car to the max, continuation won't help. Well good luck hope things work out
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San diego
Posts: 821
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well im in the same situation well kind of because it took about 3-4weeks for my CEL to pop up when i overreved and my car is at honda and they say its bent valves$$$$. as of right now were waiting for the warranty inspector to see if they gonna cover it the ECU doesnt have a overrev code, thats what honda told me. tomorrow ill find out what the warranty guy says
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Elkton, MD 21921
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jdnissanz,Jul 31 2006, 09:56 AM
"FWIW, this is an AP1, and I drove the remainder of the road (5 miles) as if nothing had happened (i.e. mostlly up past vtec crossover)."
Really good idea driving this hard after mechanically over-revving. Why don't people understand once you abuse the car to the max, continuation won't help. Well good luck hope things work out
Really good idea driving this hard after mechanically over-revving. Why don't people understand once you abuse the car to the max, continuation won't help. Well good luck hope things work out
"Appreciate any constructive responses, especially from those who have done this themselves"
First, this is not my daily driver - look at how many miles are on it. If I wanted something less reliable I would have bought an American car. All I've owned in the past 15 years are Jap cars, all taken well past their intended use.... still have a 4 banger Toyota p/u as a daily driver (2wd) which I used to pull a 5000# boat with............... 10 years old, 125k miles, and no problems. Perhaps between my previous cars and the handful of sportbikes I've had, I'm living in a paradigm of sorts.
But getting back to the point, you've posted in the wrong topic.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Elkton, MD 21921
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got two routes to go (well, 3 if you include "do nothing"):
(1) Examine the retainers myself. A co-worker and fellow engineer used to be a Honda mechanic years prior to becoming an engineer. I discussed the situation with him, and though he didn't offer to look at it himself, he will gladly lend me any specialty tools (e.g. mirror, compression gauge, etc...) and guidance needed for me to perform an examination. Smart guy, and I respect his knowledge both from theoretical and hand-on perspectives.
(2) Get all the retainers replaced, most likely aftermarket, by one of the tuners on this board's list for approx $550 - approx $150 for the parts, the rest for labor (approx 6 hrs). He believed there were aftermarket retainers which would hold out to higher rpms, but had to make sure that they were compatible with OEM springs. The tuner would NOT perform a simple examination of existing retainers - said that he "could" miss something, weeks later the motor drops a valve, then he could have a liability issue on his hands (if the customer were a prick).
Anyone know of the reliability of aftermarket retainers with OEM springs, in terms of max safe rpm? From all the postings, I am assuming the the retainers are the weakest link in the chain; what's next?
(1) Examine the retainers myself. A co-worker and fellow engineer used to be a Honda mechanic years prior to becoming an engineer. I discussed the situation with him, and though he didn't offer to look at it himself, he will gladly lend me any specialty tools (e.g. mirror, compression gauge, etc...) and guidance needed for me to perform an examination. Smart guy, and I respect his knowledge both from theoretical and hand-on perspectives.
(2) Get all the retainers replaced, most likely aftermarket, by one of the tuners on this board's list for approx $550 - approx $150 for the parts, the rest for labor (approx 6 hrs). He believed there were aftermarket retainers which would hold out to higher rpms, but had to make sure that they were compatible with OEM springs. The tuner would NOT perform a simple examination of existing retainers - said that he "could" miss something, weeks later the motor drops a valve, then he could have a liability issue on his hands (if the customer were a prick).
Anyone know of the reliability of aftermarket retainers with OEM springs, in terms of max safe rpm? From all the postings, I am assuming the the retainers are the weakest link in the chain; what's next?
#17
I believe that the retainers of choice are the AP2 OEM retainers. They are apparently a little thicker in cross section in the area that is prone to crack. I seem to recall that there is some premature wear issue with aftermarket retainers. Others can chime in here as I'm merely working from memory of what I've read here.
#18
Originally Posted by ShMooveS2k,Jul 31 2006, 05:12 PM
well im in the same situation well kind of because it took about 3-4weeks for my CEL to pop up when i overreved and my car is at honda and they say its bent valves$$$$. as of right now were waiting for the warranty inspector to see if they gonna cover it the ECU doesnt have a overrev code, thats what honda told me. tomorrow ill find out what the warranty guy says
No offense to you as you are apparently OK with it and will deal with it, but this should serve as a good example of those who say "ahh, if it's running OK afterwards, it's fine"
#20
Are the AP2 retainers heavier than the AP1 units? Since the AP2's don't rev as high, heavier retainers might not matter. On an AP1, I wonder if they might induce float?
According to Majestic both the retainers, springs and keepers are a different part# between a 2002 and 2005.
According to Majestic both the retainers, springs and keepers are a different part# between a 2002 and 2005.