Finally did my first change this afternoon
09-11-2016, 05:04 AM
#11
Harbor Freight has 3/8" click-type torque wrenches for about $20 every day and sometimes for $10 on sale. Just fine for things like we're discussing. The Honda oil filter wrench (it fits over the filter) has a 3/8" socket on top. You can confirm the torque from the top. OEM filter has numbers on the rim so tightening per that spec is fine too. Don't forget to loosen the torque wrench after using it.
With the filter change the car takes 5.1 quarts so a 5 quart jug is just right. Just a few more ounces from that extra quart to maybe get it to the top X and mid change top off. Oil change schedule is every 7500 miles but my Maintenance Minder (2006+ cars) just started nagging me at 5500 miles so I changed the oil yesterday. The Maintenance Minder claims to work off total engine revolutions, load, etc. Since I was under the car I changed the gearbox (although not called for) and the differential (which was on schedule). Cabin air filter was on the display too. Surprisingly dirty in 17 months of driving. Air filter replacement was on the schedule. (My K&N is fine.) The MM even called for a tire pressure check. Code A126.
Recommendation is to check both sides of the dipstick. New oil is very hard to see but ,assuming the drain plug is in place, just dump in the whole jug and you're fine even if you can't see it.
-- Chuck
With the filter change the car takes 5.1 quarts so a 5 quart jug is just right. Just a few more ounces from that extra quart to maybe get it to the top X and mid change top off. Oil change schedule is every 7500 miles but my Maintenance Minder (2006+ cars) just started nagging me at 5500 miles so I changed the oil yesterday. The Maintenance Minder claims to work off total engine revolutions, load, etc. Since I was under the car I changed the gearbox (although not called for) and the differential (which was on schedule). Cabin air filter was on the display too. Surprisingly dirty in 17 months of driving. Air filter replacement was on the schedule. (My K&N is fine.) The MM even called for a tire pressure check. Code A126.
Recommendation is to check both sides of the dipstick. New oil is very hard to see but ,assuming the drain plug is in place, just dump in the whole jug and you're fine even if you can't see it.
-- Chuck
09-11-2016, 05:52 AM
#12
Definitely get a torque wrench if you don't have a feel for tightening bolts.
I generally add oil to the oil filter up to maybe 1/2 of the way and then swish it around so the oil can soak into the paper media.
Also, I find this tool very convenient. No more dropped drain bolt into the drain pan or hot oil getting all over your hand:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Drain-Plu.../dp/B0054WI7CW
I generally add oil to the oil filter up to maybe 1/2 of the way and then swish it around so the oil can soak into the paper media.
Also, I find this tool very convenient. No more dropped drain bolt into the drain pan or hot oil getting all over your hand:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Drain-Plu.../dp/B0054WI7CW
09-11-2016, 05:56 AM
#13
Harbor Freight has 3/8" click-type torque wrenches for about $20 every day and sometimes for $10 on sale. Just fine for things like we're discussing. The Honda oil filter wrench (it fits over the filter) has a 3/8" socket on top. You can confirm the torque from the top. OEM filter has numbers on the rim so tightening per that spec is fine too. Don't forget to loosen the torque wrench after using it.
With the filter change the car takes 5.1 quarts so a 5 quart jug is just right. Just a few more ounces from that extra quart to maybe get it to the top X and mid change top off. Oil change schedule is every 7500 miles but my Maintenance Minder (2006+ cars) just started nagging me at 5500 miles so I changed the oil yesterday. The Maintenance Minder claims to work off total engine revolutions, load, etc. Since I was under the car I changed the gearbox (although not called for) and the differential (which was on schedule). Cabin air filter was on the display too. Surprisingly dirty in 17 months of driving. Air filter replacement was on the schedule. (My K&N is fine.) The MM even called for a tire pressure check. Code A126.
Recommendation is to check both sides of the dipstick. New oil is very hard to see but ,assuming the drain plug is in place, just dump in the whole jug and you're fine even if you can't see it.
-- Chuck
With the filter change the car takes 5.1 quarts so a 5 quart jug is just right. Just a few more ounces from that extra quart to maybe get it to the top X and mid change top off. Oil change schedule is every 7500 miles but my Maintenance Minder (2006+ cars) just started nagging me at 5500 miles so I changed the oil yesterday. The Maintenance Minder claims to work off total engine revolutions, load, etc. Since I was under the car I changed the gearbox (although not called for) and the differential (which was on schedule). Cabin air filter was on the display too. Surprisingly dirty in 17 months of driving. Air filter replacement was on the schedule. (My K&N is fine.) The MM even called for a tire pressure check. Code A126.
Recommendation is to check both sides of the dipstick. New oil is very hard to see but ,assuming the drain plug is in place, just dump in the whole jug and you're fine even if you can't see it.
-- Chuck
09-11-2016, 06:00 AM
#15
I like cosmoiller love my fumoto valve. Why mess with a drain plug when you can have a valve. Hook up a hose drain it into a pair of 5 quart oil bottles, shutting off the valve at your convenience is great, you can correct over fills, draw an oil sample, plus you don't have to burn yourself or drop plugs or worry about leaks.
Thanks for the valve recommendation. Have seen that all over the forum!
09-12-2016, 12:19 AM
#16
Originally Posted by Chuck S' timestamp='1473599086' post='24059433
Harbor Freight has 3/8" click-type torque wrenches for about $20 every day and sometimes for $10 on sale. Just fine for things like we're discussing. The Honda oil filter wrench (it fits over the filter) has a 3/8" socket on top. You can confirm the torque from the top. OEM filter has numbers on the rim so tightening per that spec is fine too. Don't forget to loosen the torque wrench after using it.
With the filter change the car takes 5.1 quarts so a 5 quart jug is just right. Just a few more ounces from that extra quart to maybe get it to the top X and mid change top off. Oil change schedule is every 7500 miles but my Maintenance Minder (2006+ cars) just started nagging me at 5500 miles so I changed the oil yesterday. The Maintenance Minder claims to work off total engine revolutions, load, etc. Since I was under the car I changed the gearbox (although not called for) and the differential (which was on schedule). Cabin air filter was on the display too. Surprisingly dirty in 17 months of driving. Air filter replacement was on the schedule. (My K&N is fine.) The MM even called for a tire pressure check. Code A126.
Recommendation is to check both sides of the dipstick. New oil is very hard to see but ,assuming the drain plug is in place, just dump in the whole jug and you're fine even if you can't see it.
-- Chuck
With the filter change the car takes 5.1 quarts so a 5 quart jug is just right. Just a few more ounces from that extra quart to maybe get it to the top X and mid change top off. Oil change schedule is every 7500 miles but my Maintenance Minder (2006+ cars) just started nagging me at 5500 miles so I changed the oil yesterday. The Maintenance Minder claims to work off total engine revolutions, load, etc. Since I was under the car I changed the gearbox (although not called for) and the differential (which was on schedule). Cabin air filter was on the display too. Surprisingly dirty in 17 months of driving. Air filter replacement was on the schedule. (My K&N is fine.) The MM even called for a tire pressure check. Code A126.
Recommendation is to check both sides of the dipstick. New oil is very hard to see but ,assuming the drain plug is in place, just dump in the whole jug and you're fine even if you can't see it.
-- Chuck
Did I just read the bolded, italicized, underlined phrase right? You got the OEM filter that fits most non-S2000 Honda's, and not the OEM one specific to the S2000? Or, are you saying to old one you removed was not the S2000?
If so, immediately change it to the S2000 one, and through the dirty one at the head of the parts guy that said it was OK! The regular one is smaller and is not appropriate for the S2000.
Another trick to reading new oil levels on the dipstick is to turn the dipstick vertically with the tip pointing up and immediately read the oil level. The oil will pool for an instant at the correct level (which is now closer to the ground if you can picture it) and it's easier to see. The trick is you have to look at the level immediately before it starts running downwards. And the proper fill line is the top of the markings. Anywear in the range of the markings is acceptable until you add make up oil to get to the top again. The range of that marking segment is about a quart.
Lastly...many S2000's burn oil relatively quickly. You MUST get in the habit of checking oil level frequently. Doing it at every fill up is the easiest way to remember.
09-12-2016, 11:15 AM
#18
Originally Posted by Lawrenceh' timestamp='1473602201' post='24059453
[quote name='Chuck S' timestamp='1473599086' post='24059433']
Harbor Freight has 3/8" click-type torque wrenches for about $20 every day and sometimes for $10 on sale. Just fine for things like we're discussing. The Honda oil filter wrench (it fits over the filter) has a 3/8" socket on top. You can confirm the torque from the top. OEM filter has numbers on the rim so tightening per that spec is fine too. Don't forget to loosen the torque wrench after using it.
With the filter change the car takes 5.1 quarts so a 5 quart jug is just right. Just a few more ounces from that extra quart to maybe get it to the top X and mid change top off. Oil change schedule is every 7500 miles but my Maintenance Minder (2006+ cars) just started nagging me at 5500 miles so I changed the oil yesterday. The Maintenance Minder claims to work off total engine revolutions, load, etc. Since I was under the car I changed the gearbox (although not called for) and the differential (which was on schedule). Cabin air filter was on the display too. Surprisingly dirty in 17 months of driving. Air filter replacement was on the schedule. (My K&N is fine.) The MM even called for a tire pressure check. Code A126.
Recommendation is to check both sides of the dipstick. New oil is very hard to see but ,assuming the drain plug is in place, just dump in the whole jug and you're fine even if you can't see it.
-- Chuck
Harbor Freight has 3/8" click-type torque wrenches for about $20 every day and sometimes for $10 on sale. Just fine for things like we're discussing. The Honda oil filter wrench (it fits over the filter) has a 3/8" socket on top. You can confirm the torque from the top. OEM filter has numbers on the rim so tightening per that spec is fine too. Don't forget to loosen the torque wrench after using it.
With the filter change the car takes 5.1 quarts so a 5 quart jug is just right. Just a few more ounces from that extra quart to maybe get it to the top X and mid change top off. Oil change schedule is every 7500 miles but my Maintenance Minder (2006+ cars) just started nagging me at 5500 miles so I changed the oil yesterday. The Maintenance Minder claims to work off total engine revolutions, load, etc. Since I was under the car I changed the gearbox (although not called for) and the differential (which was on schedule). Cabin air filter was on the display too. Surprisingly dirty in 17 months of driving. Air filter replacement was on the schedule. (My K&N is fine.) The MM even called for a tire pressure check. Code A126.
Recommendation is to check both sides of the dipstick. New oil is very hard to see but ,assuming the drain plug is in place, just dump in the whole jug and you're fine even if you can't see it.
-- Chuck
Did I just read the bolded, italicized, underlined phrase right? You got the OEM filter that fits most non-S2000 Honda's, and not the OEM one specific to the S2000? Or, are you saying to old one you removed was not the S2000?
If so, immediately change it to the S2000 one, and through the dirty one at the head of the parts guy that said it was OK! The regular one is smaller and is not appropriate for the S2000.
Another trick to reading new oil levels on the dipstick is to turn the dipstick vertically with the tip pointing up and immediately read the oil level. The oil will pool for an instant at the correct level (which is now closer to the ground if you can picture it) and it's easier to see. The trick is you have to look at the level immediately before it starts running downwards. And the proper fill line is the top of the markings. Anywear in the range of the markings is acceptable until you add make up oil to get to the top again. The range of that marking segment is about a quart.
Lastly...many S2000's burn oil relatively quickly. You MUST get in the habit of checking oil level frequently. Doing it at every fill up is the easiest way to remember.
[/quote]
Hi, the one I just removed was the non-S2000 one! I noticed that was quite small, compared to the S2000 one. That one has been on the car for at least 3k miles!
Thanks for your highlight!
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