s2klariat

Bleeding brakes is easy just time consuming and requires a second person. Theres a bleeder screw (small screw on the top of the caliper with a little rubber nipple covering it) on all 4 calipers.. to bleed brakes take that rubber nipple off and have your friend pump the brakes 3 times and then while you loosen the screw they push to the floor.. then tighten back up and pull the brake pedal up by hand. Repeat the process on all 4 calipers have a drain pan as brake fluid will squirt out and dont get it on your paint it will eat right through it. Have plenty of fresh brake fluid available (Dot 3 or Dot 4) and never let the brake resevoir get completely empty.. keep filling it up in between bleeds. Do this on each caliper until a straight stream of fluid comes out (no air). I've also heard starting with the caliper farthest away from the brake master cylinder and working inward to the closest one makes this process easier

Edit: Oh and grooves on the rotor is no good. Take them to a place that turns rotors ( o reily auto parts) and see if they are still with in specs to be turned.. if not then buy new rotors. They can be anywhere from 40 to 80 dollars each depending on where you go. I recommend sticking with blank rotors and not using cross drilled. If you must ask why there are plenty of discussions on that already so use your search button

dammitjim

Ideally you'd measure them or have someone familiar with brakes take a look. Maybe you could find a local member willing to help you out? If you were up for a drive to the east side of WI I could help you knock out the brakes in a few hours.

Here are the billman gravity bleed instructions:

By trial, I've found the best sequence is RF, LF, LR, RR.

Empty the master with a turkey baster.

Crack the right front bleeder, the level will start to drop. Get it a little lower, but not enough to suck air.

Fill the master to the very top with ATE blue.

Start with the right front bleeder. Attach a clear hose, and let it gravity bleed till it turns blue.

Repeat for the remaining wheels.

You'll have such a great brake pedal from the gravity bleed it will feel like the pedal is welded to the car smile.gif

I have used this procedure on countless s2ks.

s2klariat

^^ I'll have to try that next time I bleed my brakes guess I'm just old school

erikvanden

Thanks for the offer but that is a little to far of a drive for me.

would I need to get that fluid? it is a little pricey. Also would I need a clear hose or could I just put the brake hose over a bucket?

I know a few people who know a little about cars. I can ask them to take a look otherwise see if a shop will take a look.

If I get new pads and or rotors are there any recommendations one what to get? I have no idea. I also like the look of slotted rotors better but if they aren't going to work as good I won't get them. But if someone has a link to some rotors and pads that are good that would be great. I just don't know what to look for.

Also I heard when you get rotors turned that they don't last as long. Also does anyone have a rough Idea of how much it costs to get rotors turned? If it costs a lot less to get them turned I guess i would do that but otherwise the rotors are 9 years old.

s2klariat

Slotted rotors are good and fine as long as they were cast after they were slotted... if they were cast before they were slotted then the strength of the rotor has been compromised and their are instances of them cracking or even breaking in two. Basically what I'm getting at is if you go the slotted rotor route I would recommend paying for quality. Your decision and just my .02 cents. Good luck!

CapoArgentino

I doubt he needs to bleed the brake fluid. Just pads and rotors turned. But you can still do the fluid change. Takes one person but like said, just a bit time consuming but easy.

As for the rotor wear, I pass the tip of my fingernail (Top of fingernail facing rotor surface) from center to edge. If its not smooth, turn them.

erikvanden

well i was able to fit my finger nail in some of the grooves. If I buy new rotors what ones should I buy?

CapoArgentino

how hard will you be driving? Will you be visiting the track?

The OEM setup is very good already. If you want something better got w/ slotted rotors and some EBC pads (About $100 for full front set of pads, made for track and street).

Powerslot rotors might be a good option but they never convinced me for some reason. They are cheap $$$ wise.

Im using DBA 4000 Series slotted but these are about $250 a piece.

352s2000

go to autozone and tell the guy behind the computer that you need rotors and pads for a 2001 honda s2000. that should do the trick.

erikvanden

I do autox and might get out to the track a few times. If I can get the stock ones turned or replaced for cheap I would do that otherwise id rather spend a little bit more and get something decent.