A few engine build/rebuild questions/idea.
#1
A few engine build/rebuild questions/idea.
So, I apologize if this/these questions have been asked before, however I figured I would have a lot of questions as this project goes along and thought I could just compile them into one thread as I go to save time scouring the internet and getting thousands of different results from different sources. Anyway,
1. I was wondering how making a tensioner, similar to this for these motors would work? I saw these pictures online, though they are not for an s2000, I dont see how the design couldnt work, unless the oem/auto tensioners do something that this one wont? I feel like the manual one would give you the ability to control exactly how tight or loose you might want it adjusted and help reduce noise with just about any application. It also would last very long,if not forever and be reliably durable. Of course it would also be relatively easy to make and in turn considerably cheap. I did make one for an h22 in the past which worked great, however that auto tensioner was for a belt(unlike this chain) and was bolted to the block rather than inserted into the side. Really looking for opinions as to the cons to making this tensioner or why it can't work.
2. Is it necessary to replace the valve guides if servcing/inspection/rebuild? I had really just intended to do head gasket and valve seals in the head so long as everything checks out, but is there anything else I should replace without doubt? Or just see what may need replacing after inspection?
3. What are thoughts on using those cheap block guards for a 2.4 stroker? Car will be mostly daily. I hear mixed reviews...worthwhile investment?
May have other questions in the near future.
1. I was wondering how making a tensioner, similar to this for these motors would work? I saw these pictures online, though they are not for an s2000, I dont see how the design couldnt work, unless the oem/auto tensioners do something that this one wont? I feel like the manual one would give you the ability to control exactly how tight or loose you might want it adjusted and help reduce noise with just about any application. It also would last very long,if not forever and be reliably durable. Of course it would also be relatively easy to make and in turn considerably cheap. I did make one for an h22 in the past which worked great, however that auto tensioner was for a belt(unlike this chain) and was bolted to the block rather than inserted into the side. Really looking for opinions as to the cons to making this tensioner or why it can't work.
2. Is it necessary to replace the valve guides if servcing/inspection/rebuild? I had really just intended to do head gasket and valve seals in the head so long as everything checks out, but is there anything else I should replace without doubt? Or just see what may need replacing after inspection?
3. What are thoughts on using those cheap block guards for a 2.4 stroker? Car will be mostly daily. I hear mixed reviews...worthwhile investment?
May have other questions in the near future.
#2
I can answer the tct question. No need to invent a manually adjustable tensioner. Billman250 has a modified stock unit for sale that permanently cures the issue. Bolt in and forget. He gives it a lifetime warranty. You send him your core, he rebuilds it for the next guy.
Look him up. Billman is his name.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
Look him up. Billman is his name.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
#3
Best to do precise measurements and see if they fall within manufacturer tolerances. Versus wholesale replacement.
Whomever rebuilds the engine should have experience with that specific engine.
Just my 2¢ worth of 2¢.
Whomever rebuilds the engine should have experience with that specific engine.
Just my 2¢ worth of 2¢.
#4
Moderator
Do not under any circumstances use head studs. OEM head bolts provide many times more clamping power, even used bolts. I have done testing on this very subject back in 2004-2005.
#5
Thank you all for your reply, Billman250, I sent you a message about the tensioner. Let me know if you got it. Would you recommend reusing the head bolts so long as they check out according to the manual? Or replace anyway?
#6
Think as long as you didn't stretch the bolt too much, from over-tightening --- and you prolly didn't stretch them at all, during removal --- you should be good to go.
#7
Moderator
Any time I know the head bolts have never been touched, I will reuse them (torqued once when new, torqued twice on the re-use)
If I know the head has been off before (bolts has been torqued twice already, re-use would make 3) or the car is going FI, I will use new oem head bolts.
Be sure to consult the manual as proceedure is different for used bolts and new bolts.
If I know the head has been off before (bolts has been torqued twice already, re-use would make 3) or the car is going FI, I will use new oem head bolts.
Be sure to consult the manual as proceedure is different for used bolts and new bolts.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post