pwrofdrm

I started this thread out asking for tips on removing a differential and replacing it with one on your own. xviper has generously provided us with a thread about removing the diff and installing an aftermarket gear set, however many of us have opted to skip the gear install and just order a whole differential with the gears already installed from hardtopguy.

The advantages of going this route are as follows: Replacing the ring and pinion on our differentials is not for the DIY'er. Even xviper didn't attempt this part of the install by himself. Finding a trustworthy shop that is willing to install these parts for you can be difficult. This install is not for the unexperienced mechanic. There are certain procedures such as shimming that is not a "By-the-book" process, you have to know what you're doing already. Having these gears installed by an experienced professional such as hardtopguy is a safe way to ensure that your gears were installed properly.

With that said, here is a link to xviper's thread. It provides step by step instructions as well as pictures that were a great help.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=85687

NOTE: The following information and subsequent part numbers applies to model years MY00 through MY03. If you have an MY04+, please cross reference the part numbers to make sure you're getting the right stuff!

The only problem with xviper's thread is that it assumes that everything goes smooth. Unfortunatley, as some of our cars are approaching 8 years old, we need to come to terms with the fact that corrosion, rust, and stripped bolts are something that we have to deal with.

The first step in xvipers thread shows the detachment of the propeller shaft from it's companion flange on the diff, as seen here:



They are held together with hex bolts, which unfortunately have a tendency to round off. The only option you have if this happens as it did to me is to grind off the heads of the bolts and then slide the diff backwards, exposing the studs which can then be removed with a vice grip plier.

As a preventative measure, go ahead and order replacement bolts.
You'll need 6 of these: 90182-S2A-000

Here is a link to a cheap place to order them from.

The next issue I'll touch on is the ball joints. Although xviper's way with the ball joing popper tool is the correct way, not all of us have access to this tool. I found that upon removing the bolts from the ball joint, a good whack with a hammer was all it needed to pop off.

Go ahead and order some new cotter pins for these bolts. You can get them at your local hardware store as well.

I didn't have any problem with removing the output shaft bolts. I used a breaker bar and they all came off with a crack. No problems here.

The next, last, but largest problem I ran into involved the removal of the forward differential mounts. Xviper suggests that you simply unbolt the diff from the mounts (17mm bolts on the diff) and leave the mounts on the car while you have your way with the diff. The service manual however states that you can remove the mounts with the four 14mm bolts and take the whole thing out. I ended up removing the mounts and all, and worked the diff right out. That part wasn't that hard either.

Your replacement diff will not come with the aluminum mounts, however, so you're going to need to take them off. That's where the problem is. The mounts are aluminum, and the bolts that screw into them holding the diff up are steel. I found that the two forward bolts came right off, but the two rear were stuck. I did everything I could to ensure a smooth removal(heat, liquid wrench, wire brush, ect.) , but the aluminum simply could not hold up to the tension required to remove these bolts. I spent over an hour just getting these two bolts off, and when they finally came out the threads on the mounts were stripped to nothing and the bolts were ruined.

You now have a choice: you can order new aluminum mounts from Honda: they're only $40 a pop here:

50750-S2A-000 (right)
50760-S2A-000 (left)
90165-S2A-000 (bolts, get 4)

OR you can cut your losses and go to the hardware store and get some new hardware that will slide through the mounts and use that. That's what I did. Make sure you get some strong bolts, and use locking nuts and lock washers!

Although I didn't get there yet, these are some questions I dealt with that I'm sure you're asking yourself if you're doing this install.

In xviper's thread, he suggests that you mark the prop shaft flange and companion flange so that when you put them back together, they are in the same orientation. Obviously, this is impossible if you're replacing your diff with a different one. General concensus says that you can skip this step in our case.

Also, as far as fluid is concerned, I'm using Mobil 1.

I think that's it, at least until I get the car back together. I don't think that I'll run into anymore problems, though. I will update this thread when I'm finished reinstalling my diff. Open to any input!

SpitfireS

You're installing a new or another complete diff, so IMO the reference marks don't apply.
Simply because the other part of the reference will not return to the car
You have a MY01, you did get the correct propshaft companion flange on your new diff?

The recommended oil by Honda is SAE 90 GL-5 (thats a FACT! )
IIRC Mobil1 doesn't carry that single weight.
Honda Marine carry SAE 90 GL-5 hypoid gear oil, they use it in their outboard motors, LE-607 SAE 90 GL-5 is also the correct Honda specified weight / type.
If you don't live in the Arctic I would stick with Honda's recommendations.
Mobil1 has 75W-90 gear oil, make sure its GL-5.

CoralDoc

SpifireS offers good feedback to your question.

I will add that many owners use Mobil 1 GL-5 75W/90 gear oil in their differentials. I used to until LE-607 came to my attention.

Also, I would wait until the diff is mounted in your car to change the fluid. That way, as long as the car is level, you will be able to add the correct amount (just under a liter) by filling it until the oil runs out the fill hole.

vtec9

I thought Honda updated their recommendations and said 75w90, or 80w90 maybe, was fine for the diff. If not in the US, then in another country.

Regardless, tons of poeple, including myself in the winter, use mobil1 75w90 GL-5. In the summer I stick to LE-607

pwrofdrm

Okay, Diff fluid question solved...Thanks!

As far as the the oreintation of the propshaft/axles, it doesn't matter, eh? Well, that seems easy enough. Thanks.

My S2000 is an MY01, the diff I bought came out of an MY03, so the companion flange should be the same. Correct?

Thanks...

SpitfireS

vtec9 Posted on Jan 24 2007, 04:34 PM
IIRC it was xviper ( ) who posted a Canadian Service Bulletin to advise Canadian Dealers to use Honda Motorcycle devision 80W-90 gear oil because Honda Automotive devision doesn't carry a straight 90 weight.
Honda Marine does, as stated above.
I've been looking at specs of multigrade gear oils, Mobil1, Amsoil and others and not one has an operating viscosity that comes close to a straight 90 weight.
In general they are 20% to 25% thinner at 100C, compared to LE-607.
They do have a lower pour point.
All oils are GL-5 rated too.
I've put a bottle of LE-607 in the freezer (-18C) for a day and night and the following morning it still flowed.

Reason enough for me to repeat : if you don't live where it gets really cold at night I would use a straight 90 weight GL-5 hypoid gear oil.


.no tork. Posted on Jan 24 2007, 05:06 PM
If your MY01 8mm bolts fit properly you're ok.
IIRC "the other size" is 10mm.

Stratocaster

Also, if you unmount the charcol can and remove the inside bolts from the front diff mounts and loosen the outer bolts, it will be way easier to remove and install the new diff.

Also, filling the diff before installation is my perfered method. If the floor is level, the diff will be too. You can always remove the fill plug once installed in the car to check the level. But most lifts are not level in the air anyway.

nibble

diff flange changed on MY04. 00 through 03 are same.

I believe you don't have to align it back where it was in prop and axle shafts but it wouldn't be a bad idea if you are using same diff, but it doesn't apply to you since you'll be swaping with different diff.

pwrofdrm

Updated!