Tjs S2k

so no broken valves? You might get away with a head rebuild. How is the block?

JayJones

I did the exact same thing 7 months ago. car turned completely sideways, and the biatch turned off. wouldn't turn back on. yes don't pay someone to diagnose anything, it looks like you've taken it apart already.

I paid $2700.00 shipped, for another complete longblock, from another member on this sit. his name is im reebs or im_reebs. you might want to see if he can get you another one. he is very trustworthy, and shipped the motor from TN, to CA, and the motor runs great.

IT was kind of good i blew it, because my motor mounts were all broke, and i had to replace all of them, replaced clutch and flywheel, and did other basic maintenance that would have cost me $$$ down the road, and now i have am otor that has half the milage of my old one...

It did set me back financially, unless you count all the points that it's going to help my credit score for the stupid loan i had to pull out.

Fredster

no broken valves. my piston did suffer a slight hit by the valve (i'm assuming) but it made only a small mark, so my block looks good. as far as the head, i've yet to remove the valve that seems to be bent , if you look at the pic with the head mounted on the engine, i drew an arrow on the spring/retainer that's not leveled to the rest. idk what that means but i'm thinking i could take it to a machine shop or mechanic to get my valves adjusted?

chris_barry

I would just give the head a birthday with a set of supertech valves ( $259 from performance closeout on ebay), AP2 or supertech retainers, stem seals. While its apart I would have the valve seats inspected and given a light seat cut if required.

My guess is most of the exhaust valves were touched, and only one got badly bent. I wouldnt trust any of those exhaust valves for future use.

Have a really close look at the cam lobe and rocker on that particular cylinder to make sure there arent any impressions from when the valve got knocked.

You should be able to give the head and parts to a good head reconditioner and they can hand it back ready to bolt on. Make sure they use a Serdi, Mira or other high spec seat cutter. If they mention syncro stone find another shop.

Chris.

Fredster

Yeah I already took it apart myself, I'm trying to save money for spring break! hehe or maybe some forced induction on the s.

I too, kind of saw this incident as a good thing, as my engine has high mileage but it turns out that the damage isn't major.

Fredster

Thanks for the information, that's exactly what I needed. Tomorrow I'll be heading to the shop, I'll keep in mind about the spec seat cutters. I'm not too familiar with that but I'll take your knowledge and make it useful. Thanks.

JayJones

what screwed me over, was that the piston, ended up getting a fingernail size chunk torn out of it, so the block was useless.

chris_barry

I wouldn't get too worried about a slight nick in the top of the piston unless it was really deep. If there is no bore damage you can swap in another piston the same size by only dropping the sump off.

I wouldn't write off a whole short block assembly just due to a nick in the piston.

chris_barry

The nasty way of cutting valve seats uses an abrasive stone to grind away material.

The good machines use a carbide cutting tool that has the target seat shape ground into the cutting edge. It also uses a very accurate method to centre up on the valve guide to keep things concentric.

The latest machines use a computer controller single point cutter to cut any shape seat profile, a bit like a tiny lathe where the tool spins around and the job stands still.