F20c blue smoke, misfire in cylinder 2- Help?
#11
if all the numbers are close to each other its fine, many things can change the variation of the number but not how close the numbers are. example elevation temp what gauge is used
#16
#17
Registered User
Oil would fill in deficiencies with the rings to help pinpoint the issue. Compression gauges are notoriously inaccurate, so that is why you look for variances between cylinders. It does not look like it is off enough to pinpoint the problem quite yet. A leakdown test is your best bet to find the actual problem. For more on compression test check this article from a 2 stroke guru, 2-stroke tuners use compression testing a lot.
"THE GAUGE - Most engine builders have a drawer in their rollaway dedicated to storing all the "cheap compression gauges" that they have used the poor judgment to buy during their career. However in the very front of that drawer is the Snap-On gauge that gets used regularly. This gauge is preferred not just for it's good accuracy and durability, but rather for one simple design feature. The adaptor hoses, of the Snap-On gauge, that screw into the spark plug threads has a Schrader air fitting at the spark plug tip location. That is, the pressure is sealed off at the face of the dome in the cylinder head, which gives the truest representation of the exact combustion chamber volume. Most other automotive gauges have this air seal fitting mounted in the gauge body, at the end of a 16" hose. This means that the air volume inside that hose (usually about 3-4 cc) is added to the combustion chamber volume during a measurement. The end result of his added volume is a reading that is 20 - 35 psi lower than the true reading. For similar reasons, the tapered rubber "hold - on" type gauges are virtually useless. Besides indicating the added 2 cc of the threaded spark plug hole itself, these gauges are notorious for leaking as well."
http://www.groupk.com/tec-comp.htm
"THE GAUGE - Most engine builders have a drawer in their rollaway dedicated to storing all the "cheap compression gauges" that they have used the poor judgment to buy during their career. However in the very front of that drawer is the Snap-On gauge that gets used regularly. This gauge is preferred not just for it's good accuracy and durability, but rather for one simple design feature. The adaptor hoses, of the Snap-On gauge, that screw into the spark plug threads has a Schrader air fitting at the spark plug tip location. That is, the pressure is sealed off at the face of the dome in the cylinder head, which gives the truest representation of the exact combustion chamber volume. Most other automotive gauges have this air seal fitting mounted in the gauge body, at the end of a 16" hose. This means that the air volume inside that hose (usually about 3-4 cc) is added to the combustion chamber volume during a measurement. The end result of his added volume is a reading that is 20 - 35 psi lower than the true reading. For similar reasons, the tapered rubber "hold - on" type gauges are virtually useless. Besides indicating the added 2 cc of the threaded spark plug hole itself, these gauges are notorious for leaking as well."
http://www.groupk.com/tec-comp.htm
#18
Here's an update:
I took the car to a local specialist to run a diagnostic on it. They performed a leakdown test and the results were not good. They put in 90 psi and the engine was returning around 70-75psi, so over 15% loss. They told me that the most cost efficient solution would be to replace the entire engine, because I was essentially looking at doing an engine rebuild which would've cost around the same.
I took the car to a local specialist to run a diagnostic on it. They performed a leakdown test and the results were not good. They put in 90 psi and the engine was returning around 70-75psi, so over 15% loss. They told me that the most cost efficient solution would be to replace the entire engine, because I was essentially looking at doing an engine rebuild which would've cost around the same.
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