extreamly difficult 2 shift when car isn't moving
#1
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sorry i am not searching for this as much as i could but i'm sick right now and i got to get 2 bed so please don't flame me for this one.
I have amsoil in my trans it was doing pretty good untill it started getting colder out. and i live in the FL pan handle the coldest it has gotten is like 45 at night. i first noticed the problem in the morning, and then i started noticing it after work, and now i have it when i shut the car off run into the store and then turn it back on.
basically it is just really hard 2 get into gear. i mean it just dosn't want to get into any of them. so i will let it warm up. with the clutch out. push the clutch try any gear, and i'll keep repeating untill i get it into any of them then i will slip the clutch 2 rock the car and it'll go into gear when its rolling.
with the car warm and engine off i noticed that it'll go into gear with a lot less effort. i poped the top on my clutch fluid and it was a little low a little below the min line. so i put some Preston dot 4 synthetic break fluid in it.
think this problem could be because my clutch is going and it won't disengage all the way? or no?
i'm going 2 put my car on a lift 2marrow and i'm going 2 check my trans fluid level. i picked up some Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer and i had put in half of the QT in my engine and if my trans fluid was low i was going 2 add that 2 it also.
i was also thinking about if it isn't low 2 pull some of the old stuff out and replace it with the oil stabilizer it says 2 use a 50/50 mix in the trans and diff. a couple of my friends use it all the time in there race cars and i'm really not that worried about what bob the oil guy says. cuz i have torn my buddy's diff down with him and we have drained it at the track after a run and nothing was foamed up or anything. so please no one flamming the product. i'm looking for advice from personal or second hand experience.
thanks for reading this and helping out! hopefully i get something by the morning.
I have amsoil in my trans it was doing pretty good untill it started getting colder out. and i live in the FL pan handle the coldest it has gotten is like 45 at night. i first noticed the problem in the morning, and then i started noticing it after work, and now i have it when i shut the car off run into the store and then turn it back on.
basically it is just really hard 2 get into gear. i mean it just dosn't want to get into any of them. so i will let it warm up. with the clutch out. push the clutch try any gear, and i'll keep repeating untill i get it into any of them then i will slip the clutch 2 rock the car and it'll go into gear when its rolling.
with the car warm and engine off i noticed that it'll go into gear with a lot less effort. i poped the top on my clutch fluid and it was a little low a little below the min line. so i put some Preston dot 4 synthetic break fluid in it.
think this problem could be because my clutch is going and it won't disengage all the way? or no?
i'm going 2 put my car on a lift 2marrow and i'm going 2 check my trans fluid level. i picked up some Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer and i had put in half of the QT in my engine and if my trans fluid was low i was going 2 add that 2 it also.
i was also thinking about if it isn't low 2 pull some of the old stuff out and replace it with the oil stabilizer it says 2 use a 50/50 mix in the trans and diff. a couple of my friends use it all the time in there race cars and i'm really not that worried about what bob the oil guy says. cuz i have torn my buddy's diff down with him and we have drained it at the track after a run and nothing was foamed up or anything. so please no one flamming the product. i'm looking for advice from personal or second hand experience.
thanks for reading this and helping out! hopefully i get something by the morning.
#2
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You need to bleed your clutch master cylinder. You likely have moisture in the fluid (which is brake fluid) and it has degraded. Your issue has nothing to do with your trans fluid. At the very worst, you have a clutch master cylinder that is wearing/worn out. Clutch and brake fluid need to be changed out at least once a year - especially if you live in a high humidity region. Brake fluid absorbs water easily, which greatly degrades its performance. Excess water in the fluid leads to premature failure of seals, and corrosion in slave cylinders. Keep in mind that if your clutch fluid is bad - your brake fluid is not far behind it. The problem there is corrosion is the number 1 reason for ABS modulator failure - which is expensive. Corrosion anywhere in the system is a bad thing of course.
For note, the The S2000's clutch system requires the slave cylinder to be removed from the side of the transmission and be held at an angle to remove all the air from the system. This procedure is well documented in other posts. Just search for clutch system bleeding and/or flushing
Relating to the other part of your post: NEVER use any Lucas products. Change your fluids again and don't ever use any of those off the shelf additive products like Lucas - they are all crap and WILL do a lot more harm than any good. Lucas makes some of the worst products available - they are all marketing and no product.
For note, the The S2000's clutch system requires the slave cylinder to be removed from the side of the transmission and be held at an angle to remove all the air from the system. This procedure is well documented in other posts. Just search for clutch system bleeding and/or flushing
Relating to the other part of your post: NEVER use any Lucas products. Change your fluids again and don't ever use any of those off the shelf additive products like Lucas - they are all crap and WILL do a lot more harm than any good. Lucas makes some of the worst products available - they are all marketing and no product.
#4
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Originally Posted by fatality122887,Oct 28 2008, 03:56 AM
cool thanks for the advice how much fluid dose the clutch take?
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