Exhaust side Oil Pressure Sensor - Doesn’t Fit?
#1
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Thread Starter
Exhaust side Oil Pressure Sensor - Doesn’t Fit?
I noticed a super slow drip (1 drop per minute) landing in my garage. Found the oil pressure sensor is only screwed in this far. Okay easy fix, right? Well it doesn’t GO in any farther. I can only hand screw it this tight. Plenty of room to put some torque on it, but I feel like it should hand-screw in much further than this...
Heres the sensor removed. I googled the part number as well, and found like 40 different variants, so I’m not even sure I’ve got the right thing in there. Any thoughts?
Heres the sensor removed. I googled the part number as well, and found like 40 different variants, so I’m not even sure I’ve got the right thing in there. Any thoughts?
#2
Moderator
Need to be real careful here.
The thread is BSP in the block, most sending units are NPT.
Get an oem sensor. Seal the threads with grey rtv (its pipe thread so sealer is mandatory)
The thread is BSP in the block, most sending units are NPT.
Get an oem sensor. Seal the threads with grey rtv (its pipe thread so sealer is mandatory)
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Slowcrash_101 (03-29-2021)
#3
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Thread Starter
Thanks Billman! Is this not OEM? Looks kind of like what I see when I Google the part number.
#4
I noticed a super slow drip (1 drop per minute) landing in my garage. Found the oil pressure sensor is only screwed in this far. Okay easy fix, right? Well it doesn’t GO in any farther. I can only hand screw it this tight. Plenty of room to put some torque on it, but I feel like it should hand-screw in much further than this...
Looks like OEM sensor, but I'm not 100% sure. Do you know was the sensor removed before? If it was removed and then putted back without new thread sealer that would explain the leak.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
I believe it’s leaking because its only going in half way. The new one should be here soon and I’ll update this post with the findings.
The engine was pulled before by a haphazard DIY previous owner. A lot of stuff had been.... forcefully torqued and cross-threaded. I mean, literally everything...
#6
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#9
Pipe thread is tapered. As the parts thread together, they form a tighter and tighter seal (but threads still leave room for liquid to pass, so sealer still necessary). But for this reason, no, the parts do not bottom out.
The seal does not take place by bottoming out (if they did, there'd be a gasket or oring at the base). Since the seal takes place in the threads themselves, pipe threaded joints should never fully bottom out.
The seal does not take place by bottoming out (if they did, there'd be a gasket or oring at the base). Since the seal takes place in the threads themselves, pipe threaded joints should never fully bottom out.
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windhund116 (03-25-2021)
#10
Pipe thread is tapered. As the parts thread together, they form a tighter and tighter seal (but threads still leave room for liquid to pass, so sealer still necessary). But for this reason, no, the parts do not bottom out.
The seal does not take place by bottoming out (if they did, there'd be a gasket or oring at the base). Since the seal takes place in the threads themselves, pipe threaded joints should never fully bottom out.
The seal does not take place by bottoming out (if they did, there'd be a gasket or oring at the base). Since the seal takes place in the threads themselves, pipe threaded joints should never fully bottom out.