Excessive AP1 Oil Consumption
08-27-2020, 07:21 AM
#21
If you changed the filter at the same time as the oil change you should turn the engine over for a few seconds then let it rest and check level again after a few minutes, level will drop a lot.
5 quarts should not get you anywhere near full on the dipstick, mine usually takes a whole 5 liter can which equals 5.3 quarts.
5 quarts should not get you anywhere near full on the dipstick, mine usually takes a whole 5 liter can which equals 5.3 quarts.
08-27-2020, 08:00 AM
#22
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OP...as evidenced...this car is almost for sure not burning anywhere near what you're calculations show.
As a policy, whenever I saw ppl doing calculations, I would yell, "NERD" and slap the calculator out from their hands. While this got me banned from MASSIVE amounts of school events, I taught those nerds a valuable lesson about unknown variables.
My recommendation....
Hit the reset button.
Fill your oil up again. To the top of the "full" mark on the dipstick.
Drive as you must.
Check the oil once every 100-200 miles and monitor. Check on a FLAT surface only. Wait a few mins after turning off the car so that all the oil drains back down.
Be more methodical before you just replace parts.
Any data you collect needs to have an origin. Even nerd slappers like me know that.
As a policy, whenever I saw ppl doing calculations, I would yell, "NERD" and slap the calculator out from their hands. While this got me banned from MASSIVE amounts of school events, I taught those nerds a valuable lesson about unknown variables.
My recommendation....
Hit the reset button.
Fill your oil up again. To the top of the "full" mark on the dipstick.
Drive as you must.
Check the oil once every 100-200 miles and monitor. Check on a FLAT surface only. Wait a few mins after turning off the car so that all the oil drains back down.
Be more methodical before you just replace parts.
Any data you collect needs to have an origin. Even nerd slappers like me know that.
Last edited by B serious; 08-27-2020 at 08:03 AM.
08-27-2020, 08:47 PM
#23
Registered User
Okay, so I checked it after it's cooled off and it was only down about 2 or 3 hash marks. Which, while a relief, also makes me feel a bit silly. If I did my math right that means I'm burning a quart every 500 miles, which is still kinda a lot, but not as bad as I thought it was. I'm still going to go ahead and do the pcv + leak down + valve seals and see if that helps at all.
i add oil when it needs oil. been doing that since day one for 17 years now.
08-27-2020, 08:50 PM
#24
Registered User
i don't drive the s2000 much, so it will take me a while to drive 3,000+ miles and report back with results. but i hope it works.
08-27-2020, 08:51 PM
#25
Registered User
I once had a car that was burning 1 quart every 25 miles. I was driving across the country. In Kansas I ended up renting a truck and sticking car in the back of the truck to make it to the east coast. Ugh. It was an iron engine and ultimately I rebuilt it. I was my first rebuild and I screwed something up and never got good compression in one out of eight cylinders. But, it lasted a good while on 7 cylinders.
I was young.
I was young.
08-28-2020, 03:12 AM
#26
Registered User
Gas Station: "Fill up the oil to the rim and check the gas level, please" "What??"
http://penriteoil.com.au/products/hpr-40-25w-70-mineral
HPR 50 40-70 (Mineral) | Penrite Oil
http://penriteoil.com.au/products/hpr-40-25w-70-mineral
HPR 50 40-70 (Mineral) | Penrite Oil
09-01-2020, 02:15 PM
#27
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Dont take apart the engine yet, if you are willing to try some inexpensive approaches first ? Some may find my suggestions as a waste of time but they can't make an improvement and I've seen some of them work on other Hondas I've owned.
Run one bottle of Liqui Moly Oil Saver for at least 600 miles,
Run 150 ml of Lucas Upper cylinder lubricant in your fuel tank.
Switch to a high quality 5w-40 motor oil.
I've seen some good results with compression improvements using Engine Restore.
Run one bottle of Liqui Moly Oil Saver for at least 600 miles,
Run 150 ml of Lucas Upper cylinder lubricant in your fuel tank.
Switch to a high quality 5w-40 motor oil.
I've seen some good results with compression improvements using Engine Restore.
I've been using 5W-30 but do you think 5W-40 would make a difference? I live in the (relative) south and it does get below freezing here in the winter.
I am of the understanding that if PCV + valve seals (+maybe guides?) don't fix it then I'll need to do the rings or get a new engine. Personally I'd prefer to just fix the one I have than buy a new one, and I know the FRM liners have a special process to hone them before you install new rings so I'd probably have to have a machine shop do that for me, no?
I appreciate all the help and advice everyone's provided here!
09-01-2020, 05:32 PM
#28
^ the machine shop needs a specific honing stone for this engine that's all, in order to get the proper crosshatch pattern.
09-02-2020, 05:27 AM
#29
From the information here I don't think this car is "repairable" but is certainly driveable for many more years. The success rate in engine rebuilds seems dismal. I'd tend to leave it alone and just replace the oil as needed. Yeah the car is going thru a bit of oil. At less than $10/qt in case lots you'd have to go thru 300 quarts of oil before a $3000 engine job would reach the break-even point. Can you get this repaired for that price? A quart every fuel fill, every 250 miles, is 75,000 miles before you'll spend $3000 on oil. You think you'll average 10,000 miles a year on this car? That's 40 quarts/$400 a year, lunch money at the 1 quart/fuel fill rate.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
The following 2 users liked this post by Chuck S:
windhund116 (09-02-2020),
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09-02-2020, 05:50 AM
#30
Yeah, maybe just go to heavier weight oil to hopefully reduce the oil consumption. I remember my Dad had this really old Ford F-100 pickup. We'd used it for hauling all kinds of crap, so it was an original road rat.
Once the oil warmed to operating temp, the oil light would come on at every stop if he used 30W oil. Had to go to 50W and really let the thing warm up, on cold days. But, the oil light stopped coming on and oil consumption significantly reduced. Man, those cast iron V8 engines lasted forever. I don't think he ever rebuilt that engine. Sold it for $500, in the 80s.
Once the oil warmed to operating temp, the oil light would come on at every stop if he used 30W oil. Had to go to 50W and really let the thing warm up, on cold days. But, the oil light stopped coming on and oil consumption significantly reduced. Man, those cast iron V8 engines lasted forever. I don't think he ever rebuilt that engine. Sold it for $500, in the 80s.