B serious

Keep using a high detergent synthetic oil to see if maybe the oil control rings are just sticking. Over time, they will free up and consumption should reduce.

rpg51

I once had a car that was burning 1 quart every 25 miles. I was driving across the country. In Kansas I ended up renting a truck and sticking car in the back of the truck to make it to the east coast. Ugh. It was an iron engine and ultimately I rebuilt it. I was my first rebuild and I screwed something up and never got good compression in one out of eight cylinders. But, it lasted a good while on 7 cylinders.

I was young.

s2000Junky

Sounds very expensive too lol

rpg51

Yup. One of the many dumb things I did in my youth. It was a Chevy 350 truck engine (4 bolt mains) that I swapped into a Toyota Land Cruiser. I learned some lessons on that one.

s2000Junky

Well its a cool/good swap anyway. Just needed a sound motor. 1Q every 25 miles is one for the record books. People must have loved driving behind you lol

I had a similar situation with an old used 20R replacement/recon in my 1980 4x4

windhund116

In college, a brother of a classmate had an old Chevy Vega. He had two cases of motor oil in the hatchback. And a box of 12 spark plugs.

What a fine piece of engineering!

rpg51

It was a cool swap. It was a complete sleeper. 350 V8 with 4 barrel carb. The landcruiser has a pretty low gear set up in the dif. The thing was a rocketship. it took people by surprise because it looked completely stock. But, of course, the end result was I completely messed up a perfectly good land cruiser. Those were the days.

zeroptzero

Dont take apart the engine yet, if you are willing to try some inexpensive approaches first ? Some may find my suggestions as a waste of time but they can't make an improvement and I've seen some of them work on other Hondas I've owned.

Run one bottle of Liqui Moly Oil Saver for at least 600 miles, Auto-RX makes a good product too, even Riselone has a similar product too. They help to loosen up sticky oil rings and improve engine aged seals. Run 150 ml of Lucas Upper cylinder lubricant in your fuel tank. Switch to a high quality 5w-40 motor oil. I've seen some good results with compression improvements using Engine Restore. I'd be willing to try these cheap products in the short term , worth a try for little cost if the only other option is a tear down I would try some of these products to help. You can't fix engine wear but some products can help incrementally and maybe just enough to keep things running at acceptable levels. I was skeptical about Engine Restore but I've seen some impressive results in some applications and the youtuber Farm Project found some interesting results using it in his testing.

windhund116

Seen a couple of these swaps in old J40 Land Cruisers. What was amazing is the length of that OEM straight-6 engine block, compared to the V-8. Mechanic I worked with in HS, converted his J. He could smoke all 4 tires, on command.

Chuck S

I've always seen the recommendation to check the engine oil level cold on a level surface to let oil in the upper areas of the engine to drain into the sump. 5 quarts of oil should fill the S2000 engine maybe down one X on the stick as the published oil change amount (with filter) is 5.1 US quarts. Anywhere on the stick between the marks is an acceptable level, there is no need to dribble oil by the ounce into the engine to keep it at F but I understand the urge.

Acceptable engine oil grades include 5W-40 and there's 19 years of data/claims here as to what engine oil works best. Amsoil, of course, will cure cancer and COVID-19 if you pay attention to those claims.

You can buy and even using one quart per fuel fill, approximately every 300 miles, is massively cheaper than any sort of rebuild.

-- Chuck