EVA Monitor won't run on 2006?
10-14-2013, 07:34 AM
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EVA Monitor won't run on 2006?
Just replaced my convertible top on my 2006 S2000. Many thanks to all the folks posting information on the boards. I read quite a bit before doing it. Really helped a lot.
Trying now to get my inspection done. All my codes were cleared due to my fiddling around during the top replacement. So when I went to get it inspected the CAT, EVA and O2 monitors showed "not ready". No DTL codes though which was good. Of course I had forgot about running car for awhile before testing. So I went out and ran it ~50 miles. The CAT and O2 monitors now have run but the EVA still did not. Still no DTL codes. Since then, I have taken the car out 3 times for a total of another 30 miles. Two times was when the engine was hot or warm. The last was with engine cold. The EVA monitor still shows it's not run yet and still no DTLs. So I'm trying to figure out what I can do.
The manual says the monitor should run if the engine ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) and IAT (ambient temp) are higher than 32 and lower than 95 F. Plus at engine startup, the ECT and IAT are within 12 F of each other. I should be meeting both these criteria so I'd expect the EVA monitor to run and tell me if I have a problem. Wondered if one of the temps isn't working but the ambient temp shows up on the dash and the coolant temp gage seems to be working normally. So I'm at a loss.
Anybody else run into this and have any ideas? All I know to do is keep trying.
Trying now to get my inspection done. All my codes were cleared due to my fiddling around during the top replacement. So when I went to get it inspected the CAT, EVA and O2 monitors showed "not ready". No DTL codes though which was good. Of course I had forgot about running car for awhile before testing. So I went out and ran it ~50 miles. The CAT and O2 monitors now have run but the EVA still did not. Still no DTL codes. Since then, I have taken the car out 3 times for a total of another 30 miles. Two times was when the engine was hot or warm. The last was with engine cold. The EVA monitor still shows it's not run yet and still no DTLs. So I'm trying to figure out what I can do.
The manual says the monitor should run if the engine ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) and IAT (ambient temp) are higher than 32 and lower than 95 F. Plus at engine startup, the ECT and IAT are within 12 F of each other. I should be meeting both these criteria so I'd expect the EVA monitor to run and tell me if I have a problem. Wondered if one of the temps isn't working but the ambient temp shows up on the dash and the coolant temp gage seems to be working normally. So I'm at a loss.
Anybody else run into this and have any ideas? All I know to do is keep trying.
10-14-2013, 04:11 PM
#4
The EVAP readiness code can be difficult to set. You're probably not satisfying the temperature criteria.
Let the car sit overnight, start it up in the morning, drive, and try to maintain a constant speed (~ 40 to 55 mph) & rpm (~ 2 to 4 k) for as long as possible (preferably, at least 5 minutes after reaching 3 bars of engine temp). With the temperature criteria met, and during constant throttle/rpm, the system will run a ~ 20 sec procedure to test the EVAP system.
I've extensively datalogged the honda/acura EVAP system, so I'm very familiar with how it works and when & how the "testing procedure" is initialized.
Hope this helps,
Caleb
Let the car sit overnight, start it up in the morning, drive, and try to maintain a constant speed (~ 40 to 55 mph) & rpm (~ 2 to 4 k) for as long as possible (preferably, at least 5 minutes after reaching 3 bars of engine temp). With the temperature criteria met, and during constant throttle/rpm, the system will run a ~ 20 sec procedure to test the EVAP system.
I've extensively datalogged the honda/acura EVAP system, so I'm very familiar with how it works and when & how the "testing procedure" is initialized.
Hope this helps,
Caleb
10-14-2013, 04:13 PM
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oh,okay.
i'm not sure of honda's "exact" criteria for monitor completion on evap, i am fairly familiar with toyota and a few other brands due to the fact that evap codes have plagued me in all of my 3 cars since last year. all resolved by the way.
most of the times the monitor system is a two trip monitor, 2 trips in this case meaning driving, reaching an optimal temp, then parking the car for a minimum of 5 hrs without restarting. a certain level of gas, usually half a tank or more, has to be present in order for the evap test to even be initiated. again, these are the toyota requirements on my girl's rav4, but honda and yota seem to run neck and neck with a lot of their systems design.
it sounds like you've done a bit of research, but if it continues to not meet the monitors, you might want to dig a little deeper. i'm positive that honda requires more than what you've quoted. sounds like you just need to put some gas in it and wait a day or two more.
10-14-2013, 04:20 PM
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The EVAP readiness code can be difficult to set. You're probably not satisfying the temperature criteria.
Let the car sit overnight, start it up in the morning, drive, and try to maintain a constant speed (~ 40 to 55 mph) & rpm (~ 2 to 4 k) for as long as possible (preferably, at least 5 minutes after reaching 3 bars of engine temp). With the temperature criteria met, and during constant throttle/rpm, the system will run a ~ 20 sec procedure to test the EVAP system.
I've extensively datalogged the honda/acura EVAP system, so I'm very familiar with how it works and when & how the "testing procedure" is initialized.
Hope this helps,
Caleb
Let the car sit overnight, start it up in the morning, drive, and try to maintain a constant speed (~ 40 to 55 mph) & rpm (~ 2 to 4 k) for as long as possible (preferably, at least 5 minutes after reaching 3 bars of engine temp). With the temperature criteria met, and during constant throttle/rpm, the system will run a ~ 20 sec procedure to test the EVAP system.
I've extensively datalogged the honda/acura EVAP system, so I'm very familiar with how it works and when & how the "testing procedure" is initialized.
Hope this helps,
Caleb
you beat me to it. sounds like you have a lot more experience with the honda design, but i had no idea that it pulls a vacuum while you drive. thought it was more of an overnight test. learn something new everyday.
i tried digging into the monitor criteria section of the helms, but started to go cross-eyed, haha. did i mention i hate evap.
10-15-2013, 12:31 PM
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The EVAP readiness code can be difficult to set. You're probably not satisfying the temperature criteria.
Let the car sit overnight, start it up in the morning, drive, and try to maintain a constant speed (~ 40 to 55 mph) & rpm (~ 2 to 4 k) for as long as possible (preferably, at least 5 minutes after reaching 3 bars of engine temp). With the temperature criteria met, and during constant throttle/rpm, the system will run a ~ 20 sec procedure to test the EVAP system.
I've extensively datalogged the honda/acura EVAP system, so I'm very familiar with how it works and when & how the "testing procedure" is initialized.
Hope this helps,
Caleb
Let the car sit overnight, start it up in the morning, drive, and try to maintain a constant speed (~ 40 to 55 mph) & rpm (~ 2 to 4 k) for as long as possible (preferably, at least 5 minutes after reaching 3 bars of engine temp). With the temperature criteria met, and during constant throttle/rpm, the system will run a ~ 20 sec procedure to test the EVAP system.
I've extensively datalogged the honda/acura EVAP system, so I'm very familiar with how it works and when & how the "testing procedure" is initialized.
Hope this helps,
Caleb
Thinking about my driving to date for testing, I clearly had not done exactly this yet. So today I tried it.
Car was sitting over night. Turned key on, confirmed readiness code still not set. Started car up and went immediately onto a highway that is just a couple blocks away. Set it on cruise control - 54 mph (3k rpm). Ran that way for ~ 12 minutes. Then slowed to almost a stop but no stop, turned around under an overpass and returned the same way on speed control. So it ran that way for maybe ~20 minutes total. Then pulled off to the side of the road, turned off the engine. Hooked up my OBD2 reader. Turn key on and took a look. Same thing. EVAP not ready, no trouble codes. By the way, the reader is just confirming what the car self diagnosis - when you first turn on the key, the MIL lamp stays on for ~ 20 seconds. If all is ok, it should go off. If all readiness codes are not set, the MIL flashes five times before going off. My MIL flashes 5 times. So appears the reader is just confirming what the car self diagnosis is saying.
I will try same thing tomorrow but before starting will try to pick up the voltage from the ambient temp sensor (IAT) and coolant sensor (ECT) before I start the car. I want to see if they appear to have same voltage when cool. Then will try driving again like today.
If you can think of anything else I could be missing, I'd be glad to hear and will check this post tomorrow before rerunning test. I can't think of anything unless maybe the A/C running causes problems for the test - but can't imagine it would. Here it's kinda hot and muggy so had A/C running during this drive test. Oh, and also confirmed my gas tank is ~ 65% full (read somewhere that might be problem if less than 50% full)
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10-15-2013, 07:26 PM
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Did more research tonight and found the following:
(1) in Texas, you can have one non-continuous monitor "not ready" and still pass emission testing. So my current EVAP "not ready" should not prevent me from passing when I go back. Will try tomorrow.
(2) Also found in the Owner's Manual a page on State Emissions Testing which gives Honda's guidelines on getting rid of the readiness codes:
Make sure the gas tank is nearly, but not completely full (around 3/4)
Make sure the vehicle has been parked with the engine off for 6 hours or more.
Make sure the ambient temperature is between 40 and 95 F
Without touching accelerator pedal, start the engine, and let it idle for 20 seconds.
Keep the vehicle in Neutral. Increase engine speed to 2000 rpm, and hold it there until the temp gage rises to at least 1/4th of scale (about 3 minutes)
Select a nearby lightly traveled major highway where you can maintain a speed of 50-60 mph for at least 20 minutes. Drive on highway in 5th. Do not use cruise control. When traffic allows, drove for 90 seconds without moving the accelerator pedal (vehicle speed may vary slightly, this is ok). If you cannot do this for a continuous 90 seconds because of traffic conditions, drive for at least 30 seconds, then repeat it two more times (for a total of 90 seconds).
Then drive in city/suburban traffic for at least 10 minutes. When traffic conditions allow, let the vehicle coast for several seconds without using the accelerator pedal or the brake pedal.
If that doesn't clear the ready codes, see dealer.
Will try this tomorrow before going to get car tested.
(1) in Texas, you can have one non-continuous monitor "not ready" and still pass emission testing. So my current EVAP "not ready" should not prevent me from passing when I go back. Will try tomorrow.
(2) Also found in the Owner's Manual a page on State Emissions Testing which gives Honda's guidelines on getting rid of the readiness codes:
Make sure the gas tank is nearly, but not completely full (around 3/4)
Make sure the vehicle has been parked with the engine off for 6 hours or more.
Make sure the ambient temperature is between 40 and 95 F
Without touching accelerator pedal, start the engine, and let it idle for 20 seconds.
Keep the vehicle in Neutral. Increase engine speed to 2000 rpm, and hold it there until the temp gage rises to at least 1/4th of scale (about 3 minutes)
Select a nearby lightly traveled major highway where you can maintain a speed of 50-60 mph for at least 20 minutes. Drive on highway in 5th. Do not use cruise control. When traffic allows, drove for 90 seconds without moving the accelerator pedal (vehicle speed may vary slightly, this is ok). If you cannot do this for a continuous 90 seconds because of traffic conditions, drive for at least 30 seconds, then repeat it two more times (for a total of 90 seconds).
Then drive in city/suburban traffic for at least 10 minutes. When traffic conditions allow, let the vehicle coast for several seconds without using the accelerator pedal or the brake pedal.
If that doesn't clear the ready codes, see dealer.
Will try this tomorrow before going to get car tested.
10-16-2013, 04:13 AM
#10
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Fuel level is a big factor when it come to EVAP, because it affects vapor pressure. The monitor will wait for the fuel level it was designed to run at. Half tank usually works well.
In NY, you can also pass OBDII inspection with one monitor incomplete. Check your local regs.
In NY, you can also pass OBDII inspection with one monitor incomplete. Check your local regs.