jasonjm

(quick note: i have the Spoon ETD and it's 99% the same as the NRG one. Just different style lock nuts are used. I seriously think they are made from the same factory.)

Some info about the Spoon ETD:
The spoon dampener has a nylon bushing which gets pushed from the threaded cap with the heim join that doesn't have a piston on it's end. The end which gets mounted to the chassi. The piston end gets mounted to the ENGINE. Which is opposite of the pictures shown on this thread.

The nylon bushing then pushes agaist the rubber bushing inside the tube housing. 14mm in, the threaded cap makes contact with the nylon bushing. This is the start of any 'preload'. 13mm in there is no preload on the rubber bushing inside. With minimum pre-load described above (14mm), this leaves 6mm of preload setting since the max is 20mm in.

I bet you you could replace the nylon bushing with another rubber one of different density. It's max stiffness would be cut in half perhaps, but for daily driving there will be very minimal vibration and will allow the use of a stiffer dampening setting. Besides, many owners usually have it set on minimum preload to 1/2 way anyway.

Even at the stiffest setting, there seems to be .5mm of free play with the piston. I found this out by silicon greasing the rubber. If left ungreased, it would rub the inner walls and slowly deteriorate from stress. The grease lubed and protects it. I recommend it. (edit, to clarify i used silicon spray. Not grease. I recommend spray.)

Also, i threaded the cap with Teflon tape and then used a fine point Sharpie to mark the Min Preload thread, and the mid (a middle setting) preload thread. Max is obviously all the way in. I did this so i could play with the preload at will without measuring.

Remember NOT to adjust ETD length via the end cap. The heim joint itself is threaded and that is what you use to adjust length. If you use the end cap it will shear off under stress from driving.

S2KPUDDYDAD

Here are some pics of the factory heat shield with the 51mm hole cut out.
Even without the ETD in place, it looks like Honda ment it to be there

SenderGreen

I like the mounting plate very much. How much does a ETD run?

S2KPUDDYDAD

James of www.sportcompactvalue.com sells the Spoon ETD set up and Sam S2X sells the NRG ETD setup.
I bought a used J's Racing ETD a few years back, this is the one picthured in this post.
I think they run around $200.00 now for most ETD's on the market today.

S2KPUDDYDAD

Setting pre load on a S2000 using a Engine Torque Damper (ETD)

Setting pre load on a ETD is easy, there is a greater adjustment range when using a PuddyMod ETD mount.

When setting pre load you only want to use your own body strength, there is no need for help from a pry bar or a friend to pull on the engine to set the pre load of your ETD.
It is very important not to over do it, because you can incur damage to your S2000 by putting undue stress on the ETD and other components on your car!!!!! Your S2000 motor mounts are there for a reason, let them do their job!!!

After installing the ETD mounts that came with the kit of your choice IE: Spoon, J

Boofster

Can I get the cutting template when available please.

Also, anyone want to trade my new j's ETD for the Spoon ETD? I haven't mounted it yet and the blue would match my car much better.

S2KPUDDYDAD

The PuddyMod template will be ready soon. I am still working on an easy way to use it
Some sort of peal and stick thing. The sticky part will have to come off like painters tape.

I will send them out to the people who need them, and with all orders received

rugsr

JUST MAKE THE TEMPLATE OUT OF TYPING PAPER THE SAME SIZE AS THE SHIELD. THIS WAY WE JUST HAVE TO TAPE THE 4 CORNERS, MAKE A TINY HOLE WHERE THE CENTER OF THE DRILL BIT SHOULD BE...THEN GET THE RIGHT SIZE HOLE CUTTER AND GO TO TOWN. USING STICKER PAPER COST MONEY. LETS JUST GO CHEAP, MAKE IT OUT OF 8 1/2 X 11 OR WHATEVER SIZE PAPER YOU NEED AND SEND IT SNAIL MAIL. IF ITS FOLDED UP, WHO CARES. ALL WE REALLY NEED IS THE CENTER POINT OF THE HOLE. I GUESS YOU COULD EVEN JUST TELL US THE DIMENTIONS OF THE CENTER OF THE HOLE. "DRILL A HOLE WITH THE CENTER AT (EXAMPLE: 3" RIGHT AND 4" DOWN)". THAT SIMPLE RIGHT? IM SURE IT DOESN'T NEED TO BE "RIGHT ON THE NOSE" A 1/4" GAP WILL GIVE US SOME PLAY.

AAAAAAH Shoot, sorry bout caps. Thats what I get for not looking up at my screen and typing fast =l

Boofster

Or just post a PDF file that we can print.

rugsr

agreed^