kstokell

Hi Guys,

Some of you may have read another recent thread of mine "Help needed! Engine broken at 165 MPH". Well after getting some prices to have it repaired (+/-6000 Euro's) I've decided to try and do it myself.

I would appreciate any tips from others who have already done this.

The problem is a loud "ticking" noise from the enigine. This started after a motorway sprint in Germany where I reached 265KPH (+/- 165MPH), the engine was still pulling strongly and I was trying to get to 270KPH when I had to slow down for traffic.

The spark plug in Cyl.4 is blacker than the other three, which look OK. I therefore think the problem is something to do with that cylinder.

I've removed the oil pan and a visual inspection of the bottom end looks OK. There was no metal deposits in the oil so I think the bearings are still good.

My main concern now is cylinder 4 itself. I'm hoping only tthe piston is damaged and not the short block. To check this I'm about to remove the head. I've already removed the Vortech SC and the exhaust manifold, but have run into some problems getting the inlet manifold off.

The first help I need is, how do you get to those bolts at the bottom which secure the manifold to the head?

Thanks
Kevin

AusS2000

Can't tell you specifically, but if you look up Marcucci's Hondata gasket install it has some very good information on removing the intake manifold.

R-SpeedOnline

Kevin,

Before taking the head of, try to put air pressure into the cylinders. That's the best way to see where the damage can be. As far as i can read i would say the valves from the 4the cylinder.

Keep in touch Kevin, and you can always enter your car at our Tuning Center if needed.

beroznikmal

DO NOT REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD WHEN REMOVING THE HEAD....
Now that I have your attention I would proceed with not removing the intake manifold..... the head come right off... be aware that there are several wires at the back of the head.....

kane.s2k

take off the intake manifold with the head. There are ground wires in the back of the head towards the firewall. Make sure you take off ALL the radiator hoses completely from under the intake manifold. This will make your life much easier. Also do not forget to take off the bolts to the 2 brackets holding the intake manifold. When removing the head bolts, use 120 degree turns (or less) per bolt at a time.

The hardest part of taking off the head will be getting the stupid 2 bolts off the radiator port under the manifold towards the firewall. After that it's a piece of cake.

Dont re-use head gaskets

kstokell

A little late with the "don't take the inlet manifold off" I nearly finished it last night.

I managed to get to the bolts finally after buying some extra extensions and UJ's for my 1/4" socket set. I lost most of the skin on the back of my hands and about a pint of blood in the process, but I now have three of the for nuts off, the last one I'll get tonight.

The oil bolts on this car have been replaced by Honda in a recall.

I don't see the piont in doing a compression test as the head will have to come off anyway as it is either a valve or cylinder/piston problem.

If it is a piston/cylinder problem I am thinking of fitting a new short block with lower 10.5:1 compression pistons. Has anyone done this?

I've heard another option, is to have some headwork done on the combustion chambers to reduce the compression, and then use the standard pistons.

Does anyone have experience in this type of work?

The head should be off this weekend, I'll keep you all posted on my findings.

Kevin

beroznikmal

If I recall correctly, only JE can make lower compression pistons with the special coat. I do not think any other after market pistons are sold with the coat. this means, if you do not use the JE pistons, u will have to re sleeve your cylinders.
I am in the middle of assembling my engine and have decided to lower my compression by opening up the chamber volume. my compression ratio should be in the 10.2:1 comp ratio. the head work was done by Joe Alaniz (www.alaniztechnologies.com)

Pharrel

Bombalahonda had the same thing. He once visit you. He HAD the suzuka blue s2000. He had the same problem when he had the Vortech on. A Loud bang, and it sounded like there was a bag of marbless in his engine. It turned out to be the 4th cil. (nearest to the window), it wasn't just moving up and down, it was moving side aways too. It extually sleeved out the cil. in a egg shape. He took of the charger and made it like it originaly was. He called honda-assist and the sended the ANWB. The replaced it under warrenty... The guy that fixed his engine said that this was the 3th in the Netherlands that had this issue... He also told that there was a german guy that drove like 200km/h and suddenly his engine "freezed" (don't now the exact english word for this)..

Anyway good luck with your rebuild

kstokell

Just to let you all know, I got the head of today and sure enough it's a cylinder 4 failure.

I can move the piston from side to side and there is scoring in the short block.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Kevin

kstokell

Well I got the head off and my worst fears are confirmed, it's cylinder 4 that's broken.

The cylinder wall is heavily score and distorted. With the piston at the top of it's stroke I can move it side to side a few mm's.


So it looks like I'm going to need a new short block to fix this.

The problem is I'm not sure which direction I should take. Of course money is an issue, but I am thinking of the following options:

- Option 1.

Complete new honda short block, with all honda parts (pistons, crank, etc)
Complete new gasket/Oring set
New hondata inlet manifold gasket

- Option 2.

Complete new honda short block, with all honda parts (crank, etc) but low compression pistons already fitted (10.5:1)
Complete new gasket/Oring set
New hondata inlet manifold gasket

- Option 3.

Complete new honda short block, with all honda parts but with Toda 2.2 liter stroker kit including Toda pistons already fitted.
Complete new gasket/Oring set
New hondata inlet manifold gasket

- Option 4

Complete new honda short block, with all honda parts but with Toda 2.2 liter stroker kit with low compression pistons already fitted (10.5:1)
Complete new gasket/Oring set
New hondata inlet manifold gasket

Also I would like to fit an uprated oil pump in place of the standard one, an "ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate and Performance Street Disc".

What do you guys think I should do?

Kevin