S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Engine sound and more problems

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Old 04-02-2014, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TixonPB
I did a compression earlier today, as I posted earlier. I got readings of 230-225-227-231. I have a K&N Intake with Filter. Is there a way to eliminate the MAP without buying a new one? Tried the MAP whack again but it didn't change anything.
Sorry, that compression test part slipped my mind when i was typing. Can't eliminate the MAP. You can try to clean it (maybe it just need a good cleaning) but at 123K why not get a new one. If the MAP is bad, cleaning won't do much. It'll be a lot easier for you to diagnose once you know the CEL code. I would also get an OEM filter because K&N is not good for filtration (could lead to clogged MAP).

All of this is part of maintenance cost of the s2000 so get used to it. It'll run forever if you take care of it properly. Trying to diagnose this of thing through the internet is kinda tough.
Old 04-03-2014, 03:19 AM
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Your valves sound way off in the video.

I know you said you had them done, but it sounds like one of them is way to loose.

It wouldn't surprise me if they screwed up the adjustment, especially a Honda dealer.
Old 04-03-2014, 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Billman250
Your valves sound way off in the video.

I know you said you had them done, but it sounds like one of them is way to loose.

It wouldn't surprise me if they screwed up the adjustment, especially a Honda dealer.
That sucks if that's the case.
Old 04-03-2014, 07:14 AM
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I can take a look at the valve adjustment myself later this week at the time i didn't have anywhere to work out of or the tools, but now I have garage space at a friends. I'll hook the computer up later today to see what the codes are and go from there for the coilpack or the MAP. What is the part number for the map and possibly a link to buy one if needed?
Old 04-03-2014, 09:32 AM
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The only code i'm getting is a 1399 right now. I'm cleaning the MAP right now but had to run out to get another o-ring because I Dropped my old one, haha. I read that sometimes the MAP can be going bad and it won't throw the code for the MAP. I still have another one on the way to be here next week just in case. The more I think about it, the more it makes sense that it would be the MAP because I would think a coil pack going bad would be a more constant misfire. This one occurs randomly at idle (ie: BE idling great for several seconds and then pop at random cycles) and the only time it's a constant pop pop pop is if you go WOT under 4000, and even then it doesn't always happen. For instance today, it would pop once if i went WOT and then continue on it's merry way from 2k rpm without any more bogging. It seems as though it's just doesn't feel like it wants to run right on some days, and runs fine on others.
Old 04-03-2014, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by TixonPB
The only code im getting is a 1399
Here or parts store. Make sure your valvetrain is in spec first.
Old 04-03-2014, 02:00 PM
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I have ordered the MAP sensor, it should be here next monday. Cleaning the old MAP sensor didn't help me at all. When my gasket comes in tomorrow I'll work the valvetrain issue, but from what i can find, since it's loose it's not hurting my idle. When it was done they said all of them were very tight but they obviously loosened them or at least one of them too much. But they weren't tight enough to be the actual cause of my rough idle. If the map goes completely bad, will it not throw a code? I keep waiting for my car to throw a specific cylinder misfire code instead of the random one, but it hasn't done it since all of this mess started, so it's making it hard to identify what is causing this mess. The more I read the more it seems like it could be either the MAP, coil packs, or injectors.
Old 04-03-2014, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TixonPB
I have ordered the MAP sensor, it should be here next monday. Cleaning the old MAP sensor didn't help me at all. When my gasket comes in tomorrow I'll work the valvetrain issue, but from what i can find, since it's loose it's not hurting my idle. When it was done they said all of them were very tight but they obviously loosened them or at least one of them too much. But they weren't tight enough to be the actual cause of my rough idle. If the map goes completely bad, will it not throw a code? I keep waiting for my car to throw a specific cylinder misfire code instead of the random one, but it hasn't done it since all of this mess started, so it's making it hard to identify what is causing this mess. The more I read the more it seems like it could be either the MAP, coil packs, or injectors.
It throws that P1399 because the misfire happens intermittently, not all the time. If your MAP is completely dead, I doubt your engine will start because it's not sending the air info so the injectors wouldn't know how much fuel to add, ect.

You'll smell raw fuel if it was your coil pack or injectors (not always).
Old 04-03-2014, 08:27 PM
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Well today when I drove home, she finally stumbled badly enough while cold to throw an individual cylinder code for #3. so when I got home i swapped the #3 coil pack and the #1 to see if it follows it if she stumbles that hard again in the morning when she's cold. Thanks for the help so far everyone. if it follows the coil pack, I can go from there. either way the MAP is going to get replaced early this next week.
Old 04-03-2014, 09:41 PM
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Its possible that the injectors are clogged and dirty and its throwing a random misfire code. When my injectors were working incorrectly the car threw a random misfire code as well. After attempting to eliminate the coils by swapping them around the car would throw a misfire in cylinders 1, 2, & 4 and than at 1, 3, 4. It was never consistent.

On the other hand my symptoms included a random misfire code, popping at idle, stumbling at random times, and the car felt shaky. I swapped the injectors with a local s2000 owner and all the symptoms went away. I don't think coils fail very often in the s2000. Mine at original at 97k, my previous S had 106k, and the local owner has 137k on his S. All original coils. Keep us updated with the coil hypothesis, but if your compression test is fine the problem is not going to be an ultra expensive fix. Best of luck. I think its the injectors. My check engine light has been off for over 5k.


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