Engine Siezed? Loud Clunking Sound...
09-14-2016, 08:29 AM
#11
Originally Posted by Jmpu671
I found the issue as stated above. It is 2 issues though.
As another stated, I would check the crank and cylinder walls. If the cylinders are ok, I would rebuild. Replace crank or just polish it if its salvageable.
Be aware these cars use different possible bearing sizes. You have to mic things up, then order the corrext sizes. This is very unusual, so an engine builder that thinks they got this, may not got this at all. Make sure engine builder is familiar with these engines. Previous Honda experience is not what counts here. Previous S experience is what matters.
09-14-2016, 08:51 AM
#12
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I'm sorry for your loss but,N/A with exhaust, cat delete, k&n drop in filter.
Was my DD up until a few months ago then became a vehicle I drove maybe 2 or 3 times a week. Normal driving with a bit of spirited driving here and there. Has been to the track twice in the 1.5yrs I have owned it.
Third owner according to carfax. Bought from a dealership.
I am 24....idk what my age has to do with anything...
09-14-2016, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Jmpu671' timestamp='1473812524' post='24061504
My poor F20 did not have the issues i thought i had...
Dropped the oil pan to find cylinder 3 rod bearing completely toasted. Chunks of metal were right under rod 3 and you could wiggle rod 3 with very little effort.
Clutch is almost done with life which would explain the slipping.
What to do next...is this engine even worth a rebuild? I keep researching cost of things but i think the extent of damages may be alot more.
I have a spare motor but even that is currently in pieces but the block is still in one piece. That engine only has 130k on it. The engine in car is 160K.
What do you gents think?
Dropped the oil pan to find cylinder 3 rod bearing completely toasted. Chunks of metal were right under rod 3 and you could wiggle rod 3 with very little effort.
Clutch is almost done with life which would explain the slipping.
What to do next...is this engine even worth a rebuild? I keep researching cost of things but i think the extent of damages may be alot more.
I have a spare motor but even that is currently in pieces but the block is still in one piece. That engine only has 130k on it. The engine in car is 160K.
What do you gents think?
There are other options though...
If you lost a rod bearing you probably damaged the crank and could have scored cylinder walls. I have been told that repaired crankshafts have been poor performers so you should look into a new bottom end or perhaps rebuild with a sleeved block and a stroker kit using a modified K24 crank.
There are also plenty of F20s on Ebay if you want a longblock.
09-14-2016, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Jmpu671
I found the issue as stated above. It is 2 issues though.
As another stated, I would check the crank and cylinder walls. If the cylinders are ok, I would rebuild. Replace crank or just polish it if its salvageable.
Be aware these cars use different possible bearing sizes. You have to mic things up, then order the corrext sizes. This is very unusual, so an engine builder that thinks they got this, may not got this at all. Make sure engine builder is familiar with these engines. Previous Honda experience is not what counts here. Previous S experience is what matters.
09-14-2016, 10:26 AM
#15
If the crankshaft isn't scarred the engine can be saved by simply changing rod bearings, thrust bearing and clutch. It's not impossible to replace the thrust bearing without removing the engine. If you know what you're doing you can remove the lower block girdle with the engine still in the car, which is exactly where the thrust bearing sits. It's much cheaper than buying a new engine that's for sure. Rod knock is fixable on these cars as long as the crank isn't damaged. Even if it is damaged there's still a chance you can polish the crank and just use a thicker OEM bearing. I'm a big believer of bypassing the clutch interlock switch, our pull clutches put too much strain on the crankshaft.
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