engine problems
#25
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Changing your bearing is like a bandaid that will last like a week if that. Your crank has a scorched rod journal. You rod is scared as well. Your looking at a complete rebuild of the bottom end. The cylinders would look okay because nothing happened to them. Basically you are only left with a good block case, 3 good rods and 4 used pistons. Your motor was probably burning oil (blow by or valve seals etc) which caused low oil pressure. Then driving it w/ low oil caused the bearing to spin from lack of lubrication. Let me guess you spun rod bearing #4 journal? The copper shards in the pan are from the bearing. Your crank is F'd unless you machine it and use oversized bearings. No matter what, 800 bucks is not going to cover it unless you know how to tear down the motor and rebuild it yourself.
I would sell all your new crank and sell ur ported head, then sell your shortblock for cheap cuz its damaged. Then use the money toward a used low mileage 2.2L longblock. Plenty of them selling for cheap 2k-2500. This is a safe and reliable way. Installation is a cost your going to have to pay regardless, of course it will be extra.
I would sell all your new crank and sell ur ported head, then sell your shortblock for cheap cuz its damaged. Then use the money toward a used low mileage 2.2L longblock. Plenty of them selling for cheap 2k-2500. This is a safe and reliable way. Installation is a cost your going to have to pay regardless, of course it will be extra.
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You cannot use aftermarket pistons without resleeving the block. Your cylinders have a fiber reinforced metal liner which do not allow the use of 99% of aftermarket pistons. There are some companies making pistons for other Honda engines with FRM liners but I am not aware of anyone making such a piston for a F20/22. You can use an aftermarket piston if you like but plan on spending $1000+ just to get the block ready to put pistons in it.
You may want to call BC to see if you can use oem F22 pistons with their 2.2L crank and rods. It would be much cheaper and you wouldn't have to resleeve, you could just rehone and go.
You may want to call BC to see if you can use oem F22 pistons with their 2.2L crank and rods. It would be much cheaper and you wouldn't have to resleeve, you could just rehone and go.
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Originally Posted by kial007,Jun 17 2009, 04:55 PM
You cannot use aftermarket pistons without resleeving the block. Your cylinders have a fiber reinforced metal liner which do not allow the use of 99% of aftermarket pistons. There are some companies making pistons for other Honda engines with FRM liners but I am not aware of anyone making such a piston for a F20/22. You can use an aftermarket piston if you like but plan on spending $1000+ just to get the block ready to put pistons in it.
You may want to call BC to see if you can use oem F22 pistons with their 2.2L crank and rods. It would be much cheaper and you wouldn't have to resleeve, you could just rehone and go.
You may want to call BC to see if you can use oem F22 pistons with their 2.2L crank and rods. It would be much cheaper and you wouldn't have to resleeve, you could just rehone and go.
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Originally Posted by AlexS2200,Jun 17 2009, 06:58 PM
Changing your bearing is like a bandaid that will last like a week if that. Your crank has a scorched rod journal. You rod is scared as well. Your looking at a complete rebuild of the bottom end. The cylinders would look okay because nothing happened to them. Basically you are only left with a good block case, 3 good rods and 4 used pistons. Your motor was probably burning oil (blow by or valve seals etc) which caused low oil pressure. Then driving it w/ low oil caused the bearing to spin from lack of lubrication. Let me guess you spun rod bearing #4 journal? The copper shards in the pan are from the bearing. Your crank is F'd unless you machine it and use oversized bearings. No matter what, 800 bucks is not going to cover it unless you know how to tear down the motor and rebuild it yourself.
I would sell all your new crank and sell ur ported head, then sell your shortblock for cheap cuz its damaged. Then use the money toward a used low mileage 2.2L longblock. Plenty of them selling for cheap 2k-2500. This is a safe and reliable way. Installation is a cost your going to have to pay regardless, of course it will be extra.
I would sell all your new crank and sell ur ported head, then sell your shortblock for cheap cuz its damaged. Then use the money toward a used low mileage 2.2L longblock. Plenty of them selling for cheap 2k-2500. This is a safe and reliable way. Installation is a cost your going to have to pay regardless, of course it will be extra.
+1 on stock pistons, they'll easily handle the 350 FI
Use stock bearings aswell. If your pistons are good, then replace the rings and reuse them. Make sure that the bearings you order are proper size for that 2.2 crank. I'd let the machine shop do all of the measurements for you.
#29
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Originally Posted by geoffrey06,Jun 18 2009, 08:38 AM
Obviously he's asking about making a 2.2, so he has a different crank and rods. Rod bearings are replaced when installing new bearings, so how do you figure the rods would get messed up?
+1 on stock pistons, they'll easily handle the 350 FI
Use stock bearings aswell. If your pistons are good, then replace the rings and reuse them. Make sure that the bearings you order are proper size for that 2.2 crank. I'd let the machine shop do all of the measurements for you.
+1 on stock pistons, they'll easily handle the 350 FI
Use stock bearings aswell. If your pistons are good, then replace the rings and reuse them. Make sure that the bearings you order are proper size for that 2.2 crank. I'd let the machine shop do all of the measurements for you.
#30
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Originally Posted by AlexS2200,Jun 17 2009, 05:58 PM
Changing your bearing is like a bandaid that will last like a week if that. Your crank has a scorched rod journal. You rod is scared as well. Your looking at a complete rebuild of the bottom end. The cylinders would look okay because nothing happened to them. Basically you are only left with a good block case, 3 good rods and 4 used pistons. Your motor was probably burning oil (blow by or valve seals etc) which caused low oil pressure. Then driving it w/ low oil caused the bearing to spin from lack of lubrication. Let me guess you spun rod bearing #4 journal? The copper shards in the pan are from the bearing. Your crank is F'd unless you machine it and use oversized bearings. No matter what, 800 bucks is not going to cover it unless you know how to tear down the motor and rebuild it yourself.
I would sell all your new crank and sell ur ported head, then sell your shortblock for cheap cuz its damaged. Then use the money toward a used low mileage 2.2L longblock. Plenty of them selling for cheap 2k-2500. This is a safe and reliable way. Installation is a cost your going to have to pay regardless, of course it will be extra.
I would sell all your new crank and sell ur ported head, then sell your shortblock for cheap cuz its damaged. Then use the money toward a used low mileage 2.2L longblock. Plenty of them selling for cheap 2k-2500. This is a safe and reliable way. Installation is a cost your going to have to pay regardless, of course it will be extra.
I replaced all the bearings (4 sets) and machined the crank....crank had very little wear....I was good to go. Drove 15k before I sold the car and it ran fine.
Really depends on the wear that has happened to the crank. But Alex basically has the 411 on this.