S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

engine problems

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Old 06-16-2009, 10:01 PM
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why would it not last?
Old 06-16-2009, 10:07 PM
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ok im going to replace the rod bearings for now and see how that runs does a spun bearing take away more than half the oil pressure away?
Old 06-16-2009, 10:24 PM
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Please don't multi post. I have merged your three threads.
Old 06-16-2009, 10:27 PM
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sorry thanks
Old 06-17-2009, 02:58 PM
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Changing your bearing is like a bandaid that will last like a week if that. Your crank has a scorched rod journal. You rod is scared as well. Your looking at a complete rebuild of the bottom end. The cylinders would look okay because nothing happened to them. Basically you are only left with a good block case, 3 good rods and 4 used pistons. Your motor was probably burning oil (blow by or valve seals etc) which caused low oil pressure. Then driving it w/ low oil caused the bearing to spin from lack of lubrication. Let me guess you spun rod bearing #4 journal? The copper shards in the pan are from the bearing. Your crank is F'd unless you machine it and use oversized bearings. No matter what, 800 bucks is not going to cover it unless you know how to tear down the motor and rebuild it yourself.

I would sell all your new crank and sell ur ported head, then sell your shortblock for cheap cuz its damaged. Then use the money toward a used low mileage 2.2L longblock. Plenty of them selling for cheap 2k-2500. This is a safe and reliable way. Installation is a cost your going to have to pay regardless, of course it will be extra.
Old 06-17-2009, 04:55 PM
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You cannot use aftermarket pistons without resleeving the block. Your cylinders have a fiber reinforced metal liner which do not allow the use of 99% of aftermarket pistons. There are some companies making pistons for other Honda engines with FRM liners but I am not aware of anyone making such a piston for a F20/22. You can use an aftermarket piston if you like but plan on spending $1000+ just to get the block ready to put pistons in it.

You may want to call BC to see if you can use oem F22 pistons with their 2.2L crank and rods. It would be much cheaper and you wouldn't have to resleeve, you could just rehone and go.
Old 06-17-2009, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by kial007,Jun 17 2009, 04:55 PM
You cannot use aftermarket pistons without resleeving the block. Your cylinders have a fiber reinforced metal liner which do not allow the use of 99% of aftermarket pistons. There are some companies making pistons for other Honda engines with FRM liners but I am not aware of anyone making such a piston for a F20/22. You can use an aftermarket piston if you like but plan on spending $1000+ just to get the block ready to put pistons in it.

You may want to call BC to see if you can use oem F22 pistons with their 2.2L crank and rods. It would be much cheaper and you wouldn't have to resleeve, you could just rehone and go.
What about toda pistons? I believe some have used these pistons without resleeving.
Old 06-18-2009, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by AlexS2200,Jun 17 2009, 06:58 PM
Changing your bearing is like a bandaid that will last like a week if that. Your crank has a scorched rod journal. You rod is scared as well. Your looking at a complete rebuild of the bottom end. The cylinders would look okay because nothing happened to them. Basically you are only left with a good block case, 3 good rods and 4 used pistons. Your motor was probably burning oil (blow by or valve seals etc) which caused low oil pressure. Then driving it w/ low oil caused the bearing to spin from lack of lubrication. Let me guess you spun rod bearing #4 journal? The copper shards in the pan are from the bearing. Your crank is F'd unless you machine it and use oversized bearings. No matter what, 800 bucks is not going to cover it unless you know how to tear down the motor and rebuild it yourself.

I would sell all your new crank and sell ur ported head, then sell your shortblock for cheap cuz its damaged. Then use the money toward a used low mileage 2.2L longblock. Plenty of them selling for cheap 2k-2500. This is a safe and reliable way. Installation is a cost your going to have to pay regardless, of course it will be extra.
Obviously he's asking about making a 2.2, so he has a different crank and rods. Rod bearings are replaced when installing new bearings, so how do you figure the rods would get messed up?

+1 on stock pistons, they'll easily handle the 350 FI
Use stock bearings aswell. If your pistons are good, then replace the rings and reuse them. Make sure that the bearings you order are proper size for that 2.2 crank. I'd let the machine shop do all of the measurements for you.
Old 06-18-2009, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by geoffrey06,Jun 18 2009, 08:38 AM
Obviously he's asking about making a 2.2, so he has a different crank and rods. Rod bearings are replaced when installing new bearings, so how do you figure the rods would get messed up?

+1 on stock pistons, they'll easily handle the 350 FI
Use stock bearings aswell. If your pistons are good, then replace the rings and reuse them. Make sure that the bearings you order are proper size for that 2.2 crank. I'd let the machine shop do all of the measurements for you.
I don't believe that is how the OP wrote his problem. It sounds to me he's trying to replace bearings w/o taking the motor out of the car. If I'm wrong and he's doing a complete rebuild, then that is a different story.
Old 06-24-2009, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by AlexS2200,Jun 17 2009, 05:58 PM
Changing your bearing is like a bandaid that will last like a week if that. Your crank has a scorched rod journal. You rod is scared as well. Your looking at a complete rebuild of the bottom end. The cylinders would look okay because nothing happened to them. Basically you are only left with a good block case, 3 good rods and 4 used pistons. Your motor was probably burning oil (blow by or valve seals etc) which caused low oil pressure. Then driving it w/ low oil caused the bearing to spin from lack of lubrication. Let me guess you spun rod bearing #4 journal? The copper shards in the pan are from the bearing. Your crank is F'd unless you machine it and use oversized bearings. No matter what, 800 bucks is not going to cover it unless you know how to tear down the motor and rebuild it yourself.

I would sell all your new crank and sell ur ported head, then sell your shortblock for cheap cuz its damaged. Then use the money toward a used low mileage 2.2L longblock. Plenty of them selling for cheap 2k-2500. This is a safe and reliable way. Installation is a cost your going to have to pay regardless, of course it will be extra.
Alex is correct for the most part. I replaced my bearing after one spun and one had wear.....think it was #3 put could have been #4 but both had wear and one spun.

I replaced all the bearings (4 sets) and machined the crank....crank had very little wear....I was good to go. Drove 15k before I sold the car and it ran fine.

Really depends on the wear that has happened to the crank. But Alex basically has the 411 on this.


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