CMiS2K

if it was just oil burning excessively wouldn't the smoke just be black and not bluish?

TypeS

CMiS2K, if it's just a black smoke means your car is running rich, that's why when the VTEC activate, you will see a black smoke coming out from your exhaust. Bluish smoke is definitely oil.

ccarnel, I told my friend about switching back to 5W-30 engine oil and he said that's not a good idea, it'll actually will make the ring wear even more severe. I'm not sure about this whole thing myself. He actually told me to switch to 20W-50 engine oil to reduce the oil burning. I'm going to try switching to 5W-30 like you said and see if there's any improvement, if there isn't then I'm going to try what my friend told me and if there isn't any improvement too then I'm going to take it to the local Honda dealership and get the compression test. It is kind of weird on how the ring wears out at 110,000 miles. This is my second Honda. My first Honda was a 1989 Civic SI with 150,000 when I sold it and there was never smoke coming out from my exhaust or burn any oil.

t.c.

Are you using this type of oil even in the winter ?? I'm asking this cause 90 % of the wear of the engine rings are made when you start your engine and when it's cold it takes a longer time to move that oil. The colder it is, the longer time it takes, so if you are the type of guy that start the engine and rev. you can imagine the friction on the cylinder walls ( metal on metal ) ouch !!!

TypeS

[QUOTE]Originally posted by t.c.
[B]Are you using this type of oil even in the winter ?? I'm asking this cause 90 % of the wear of

xviper

A "back yard" mechanic's "rule of thumb" - blue smoke = oil burning. If it smokes worst when you accelerate hard, it's probably rings. If it smokes worst when you decelerate (engine braking) from a higher rpm, it's probably valve seals or guides. An older, high mileage engine as you describe may no longer be "referenced" using the owners manual. It may have recommended 5W30 oil when newer but it's not new anymore. In this case I would consider 10W30 and in a synthetic if the engine doesn't have any bad leaks (synthetic in an old engine tends to leak out more if that is an existing problem). And yes, a thicker oil will be less susceptible to burning but there is a limit to how thick you can go before you do more damage to pump seals, etc. Also, synthetic is much less prone to be "burned".
As for STP, this was very popular in the 60's & 70's in an "oil burner" as a temporary "bandaid" till you got the car sold. It was like putting syrup into the engine so it would thicken the oil to the point that it burned next to nothing, thus no smoke so you could sell it. I'm not so sure that "Andy Grannitelli's" original formula for STP has changed any in the last 20 years. It was a gimmick then, it may still be now.
If you are correct when you say that the car does not smoke too bad at "hot" idle, there may still be some hope that an additive will work. Try putting in a can of a product called "Engine Restore". It is supposed to fill in those scratches in the cylinder walls so that less oil gets through to be burned. It's only a few bucks so why not? I've used it and it seems to help in older engines. However, nothing will be a "magic" cure for an oil burning engine. Your final alternative of course, is a ring job. This will involve an engine tear down, with new liners, new rings, possibly new pistons. Is it really worth it?
My opinion is to go with 10W30 oil (synthetic if it doesn't already leak too bad). If it doesn't get too cold (below -10*C) in winter, then stick with this weight. Put in a can of Engine Restore (the size for a 4 cylinder) and see what happens. Also, a new PCV valve might not hurt either. It's only a few bucks too.
When it's time to sell it, put in a couple cans of STP syrup and don't sell it to anybody here.
ps. It is not necessarily the type or weight of oil that causes ring wear. It is the dirt and particles that get into the oil that isn't filtered that causes engine wear. It is the detergents in the oil that help to "clean" the internals of that dirt. Regular and frequent oil/filter changes in an old engine will prolong its life.

TypeS

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xviper
[B]A "back yard" mechanic's "rule of thumb" - blue smoke = oil burning.

ccarnel

type s
im not sure your buddy is right on the more ring wear thing. If I were you I would take x vipers advice even though i dont believe in engine additives (although i have seen some good results fixing a power steering leak with lucas oil products. Hell its only a few bucks.
Thicker oil however is only a bandaid to stop the smoking

gma

I have a s2k and wanted to know if your maintenance required light should blink for 10 sec and then go off and stay off after you start your car.

gma :

marcucci

15-50 is too thick. 10W30 is too thick, all it does is make the car harder/slower to start and provides no more hot-weather protection than 5W30. There's no need to run anything other than 5W30, ever, in the Prelude's H22A.

If you have an oil burning problem you have an oil burning problem- changing the weight of the oil is a stopgap. If you've had the car since new, what change schedule have you had it on? If you see bluish smoke you ARE burning oil. I'm susprised you would burn so much so quickly. How often did you check the oil level and how often did you have to add oil?

Your damage sounds severe enough that your best bet is to find a new (used) motor or a new car. You'll spend less money getting a new engine in the vehicle than you will getting new rings in it. A leakdown test is the only way to know for sure, but if you did valve seals then the problem almost has to be the rings or the cylinder liners.

TypeS

[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]15-50 is too thick. 10W30 is too thick, all it does is make the car harder/slower to start and provides no more hot-weather protection than 5W30. There's no need to run anything other than 5W30, ever, in the Prelude's H22A.