Engine Mount replacement - disconnect steering linkage?
#1
Engine Mount replacement - disconnect steering linkage?
Going to replace both engine mounts in my MY00, and after watching DiyGuys video and looking at a walkthrough that was posted a few years back, it looks like everyone is just jacking up the engine a little and then pulling the engine mounts and/or brackets off the engine. The FSM takes it a step further and has you disconnect the steering and drop the subframe as well, almost like the removing the transmission procedure. Curious if anyone has done it like the FSM and if it was really necessary. I will add that I'm looking at doing the clutch sometime in the not too distant future, so maybe it would be a good time to make sure that the subframe bolts behave like they should.
Thanks!
Greg
Thanks!
Greg
#2
Done mounts multiple times; I don't recall needing to jack up the engine that much; I just supported it with the jack and used a large block of wood under the pan to evenly distribute the load. Undo the nuts on the bottom and unbolt the mount brackets from the block itself and lift the whole thing out with the mount still attached. If anything you'll have an easier time if your car is old and the mounts are original; they'll fall apart lol. You might need to jack up the engine slightly to get the bottom mount studs to clear the subframe if things are in the way. Never undid the steering coupler nor did I drop the subframe.
Last edited by Kyle; 03-06-2024 at 08:41 AM.
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#4
Have done it twice an also just used a wooden block to spread out the force and a jack under the pan. No steering linkage removal. Just use a block of wood wider than the pan to spread out the force from the jack pad.
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gcole (03-06-2024)
#5
No need to disconnect the steering rack. You'll enjoy the results once the job is done
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Pinky (03-07-2024),
windhund116 (03-07-2024)
#7
Community Organizer
Nice! It's on the list of things I probably need to check on before I get her rolling regularly this summer.
"Fun part" if I remember correctly was getting the drivers side mount on/off and torqued in place as it was so very tight in that area.
"Fun part" if I remember correctly was getting the drivers side mount on/off and torqued in place as it was so very tight in that area.
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#8
Well nice thing is it is easy to inspect. You can shine a light down on them and if you see any signs of oil on them, they are shot (OEMs are oil filled). If you see cracks in the rubber forming then they are just about to be shot
My originals died on a track day of course, but luckily end of the day. Rolled into paddock, heard a lot more vibration at idle and pretty much knew that was going on there.
My originals died on a track day of course, but luckily end of the day. Rolled into paddock, heard a lot more vibration at idle and pretty much knew that was going on there.
The following 2 users liked this post by engifineer:
Pinky (03-07-2024),
windhund116 (03-07-2024)
#10
To add, you won't usually see wet oil, more like a brown stain. Kinda looks like a water stain pattern, but rust colored