Engine Mount Install
03-25-2014, 05:45 AM
#1
Engine Mount Install
At first glance it looks like I can install these Innovative engine mounts without taking out/dropping the subframe since I'm taking out the mount and the engine bracket. If I hang the engine from above and do 1 side at a time, then final tighten when they're both installed it looks like there's enough space. Am I wrong?
03-25-2014, 07:13 AM
#2
should be able to. i installed mine with the engine out, but i dont see why you cant install them with engine hanging... make sure whatever u hang it with your able to adjust up/down/side to side so u can line bolts up. also, i welded the bolt heads/washers to the bracket (the 2 bolts that go down through the subframe on each mount) tack welding them in place makes it much easier to tighten cause once the motor is in place, you cant get a wrench on the bolt heads. unless u torque them down and hope the actual engine mount lines up...
03-26-2014, 06:20 AM
#4
I've taken mine out and reinstalled with the engine in the car.. One at a time with a jack under the bellhousing. I had to pull them out to replace the 65A bushings, they went bad really quick. Hopefully you didnt buy those.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/646...mounts-review/
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/646...mounts-review/
03-26-2014, 06:39 AM
#5
I did mine one at a time with a jack (and 2x4) under the oil pan. I did have to move my header out of the way, but it is also aftermarket (PLM). You may not need to do that step.
03-26-2014, 10:29 AM
#6
When I did mine with my berk header I was able to keep the header attached.Did it the same way with the jack and 2x4 too.
Trending Topics
03-26-2014, 11:19 AM
#8
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO' timestamp='1395844754' post='23082015
I did mine one at a time with a jack (and 2x4) under the oil pan. I did have to move my header out of the way, but it is also aftermarket (PLM). You may not need to do that step.
IIRC, without moving my header, I couldn't get a bolt to back all the way out of the block. I figured removing the header from the head was a better idea than trying to flex the thin-walled PLM?
03-26-2014, 01:32 PM
#9
Just be sure you use the supplied bolts from Innovative. Do not reuse the factory bolts, you will crack a small piece off the inside of the girdle and the oil pump will pick it up and it will clog it. This will destroy your bottom end.
03-26-2014, 01:43 PM
#10
Originally Posted by slowd16' timestamp='1395858592' post='23082533
[quote name='yamahaSHO' timestamp='1395844754' post='23082015']
I did mine one at a time with a jack (and 2x4) under the oil pan. I did have to move my header out of the way, but it is also aftermarket (PLM). You may not need to do that step.
I did mine one at a time with a jack (and 2x4) under the oil pan. I did have to move my header out of the way, but it is also aftermarket (PLM). You may not need to do that step.
IIRC, without moving my header, I couldn't get a bolt to back all the way out of the block. I figured removing the header from the head was a better idea than trying to flex the thin-walled PLM?
[/quote]
I did it about 2-3 years ago so I don't remember everything about it but I know for sure I didn't unhook the header. Maybe the berk and the plm have slighly different bends in them.