windhund116

"2) Pull the fuse for the fuel pump, then spin the engine to build oil pressure. (question, will building oil pressure show up on the cluster?)"

That is what I do, when changing oil. Pull fuse, turn engine over until oil light goes out. Reconnect fuse. I don't fill the new filter with oil, when replacing. I can't seem be able to attach the thing without spilling some oil onto the floor & the engine.

windhund116

I guess this is a really good reason to get off the clutch pedal, in neutral, after the engine has started --- esp on cold mornings. I know quite a few ppl that start their cars with clutch depressed, even if the car has no clutch lock-out switch. Then, let the car idle for 30 seconds -- with the clutch pedal engaged. Bad habit, I guess.

Thanks, for the info.

Slowcrash_101

When the car starts running the actual thrust force is essentially cancelled by the crankshaft spinning, as the inertia of a spinning crank makes the axial stress of the release bearing on the clutch springs almost insignificant. What you wear when you hold down the clutch with the engine running is the springs on the pressure plate and the release bearing.

windhund116

What? Wasn't the idea in this thread about disabling the clutch switch, esp during cold starts? Because, that is one of the reasons for thrust bearing wear? Now, you are saying that the clutch's action has little effect on the thrust bearing, because of centrifugal forces?

I don't think the thread is about holding the clutch down wears out the clutch springs.

I don't understand. Maybe, I'm misinterpreting your post.

warrenihad

Does anyone know if pumping the clutch pedal is going to help and get "this locked up engine" restarted?

I know this question is wired. But my car is having a similar issue. I have been able to get my car started like this for a while and i have done two track days since it appeared. It usually locks up in the morning, but not every morning.

I have not done the clutch interlock switch bypass. As far as I know, my car has been through a stage 4 clutch, a stage 2 clutch and is using OEM honda clutch package.

I have been trying to solving this issue along with some clunking noise only happen while idling. I have changed a transmission and kept driving.

windhund116

OK, so it sounds like you have a completely different problem than tranny replacement, in your other thread. If you suspect thrust bearing issues, prolly best NOT to run the car until a good mechanic has looked at it. Or you risk a lot more damage.

Operative word here is a good mechanic.

Sorry, about that.

Habitforming

I would do the bypass and then see if you still have the issue. Might be that something with the switch is causing it.

If your thrust bearing was toast, the engine surely would have failed by now after two track days.

Still would be a good idea to check the vtec solenoid screen for debris at a minimum, if not drop the pan and look for bearing chunks.

Habitforming

Sorry, but that's not how physics works. The thrust force is always there. However once the engine is running, oil pressure prevents contact between crank and thrust bearing, making it a non issue at that point. On initial startup there is zero oil pressure and thus contact between the crank and thrust bearing, which leads to wear.

Slowcrash_101

When you start the car there is a lot of axial stress, when the engine is running and the crankshaft is spinning, that spinning has inertia and effectively cancels the axial loading for two reasons. One the crankshaft's inertia and two the thrust bearing load is no longer concentrated on one part of the crankshaft but rather distributed since it's rotating.

Thrust bearings don't receive direct pressurized oil like rod or main bearings do. They are lubricated but not directly.