ChefJ

^ everyone seems to use that same picture even when it is totally out of place as it is in this situation. Post whoring.

RACER

visser

[QUOTE]

Thanks. I checked it roadside after ten minutes and then again when I got home. No oil loss and the color was still almost clear from the recent change.

While it does sound like it could be the loose plug that tripped the sensor, and, based on a separate thread, a flashing CEL would've been worse, I'm still debating whether to just drive it or bring it in and have some things checked; retainers, compression, anything else anyone thinks is worth checking.

While I'm almost certain I have never overreved via downshifting and the car only has 20 thousand miles on it, they've been hard miles. Plus I'm consiering adding more boost in the spring, so maybe some piece of mind is worth it.

visser

An update:

I took the car for a short test drive near my house. Staying under 4k rpm the car runs fine, with no CELs. When I was just about back to my house I briefly took it to 6K, but not using WOT.

Doing this triggered a brief flashing CEL random misfire code of P1399 that disappered and didn't come back the second I went out of vtec nor through the point when I turned off the engine soon after. Fortunately my house was right around the corner and I could practically coast in.

I'm considering ordering new plugs, just to be safe. Would it be safe to try this, then test in the same manor to see if the misfire code returns?

Or would it be better to order the plugs, leave them in the car for the dealer if they need them (I doubt they carry the NGKs I use), and have the car towed to the dealer for analysis?

Also, did this CEL event qualify as the dreaded blinking CEL, even though it was brief and didn't remain?


I've researched some other threads and found this clip:

[QUOTE=xviper,Apr 11 2006, 08:56 PM]These are random misfire codes that are classified as temporary. They relate to misfires that are frequent enough to trigger detection of increased emissions during 2 consecutive driving cycles. If these misfires are frequent enough to damage the cat, then a blinking CEL will ensue and you will have to take more immediate action.

When these codes show up, sometimes they are accompanied by other codes. Those other codes must be pulled and dealt with on an individual basis. They may involve things like MAP sensor, primary heated O2 sensor, fuel metering, crankshaft position sensor, Idle Control System, either one of 2 Top Dead Center sensors or Idle Air Control Valve. DID THE SHOP SCAN FOR ANY OF THESE?

You must determine if these misfires occur ...................................
- only at low ROM and load. Check fuel pressure. This could also indicate low compression and/or low quality fuel.
- only during acceleration. Check fuel pressure. This could also indicate a malfunction in the VTEC system.
- at high RPM and load, or under random conditions. Check fuel pressure. This could also indicate that the valves need adjustment.

The above is the "official line" as given in the service manual. For you at home, you might want to try to pull all the sparks plugs and check for condition and proper gap. When putting them back in, you might also mix up the coilpacks so that they don't go back into the same cylinders. Reset the ECU and go for a test to see if you can get a CEL with the different driving conditions mentioned above.
As you can see, diagnosing this situation may prove very extensive and "could" end up being quite expensive (for the warranty holder). Ultimately, the worst case scenario may involve exchanging of many parts, the final one being the ECU itself.

R3DS2K

maybe its just me.. but why are u checking the plugs when u get a code for

P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Intermittent

for a sensor that reads where ur crank locations at ..

from alldata

DTC P0339: CKP Sensor Circuit Intermittent Interruption

NOTE: Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot, and review the general troubleshooting information.

1. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
2. Start the engine, and let it idle 10 seconds .
3. Check the CKP NOISE COUNT in the DATA LIST with the HDS. Are 0 counts indicated? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 4.
4. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the range of these recorded freeze data parameters:

o ENGINE SPEED
o VSS

5. Check the CKP NOISE COUNT in the DATA LIST with the HDS. Are 0 counts indicated? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the CKP sensor and the ECM.
6. Check for poor or loose connections and terminals at these locations:

o CKP sensor
o ECM
o Engine ground
o Body ground

Are the connections and terminals OK?

YES - Go to step 7.

NO - Reconnect the connectors or terminals, then go to step 10.

7. Remove the cam chain case, and check the CKP sensor pulse plate for damage. Is the pulse plate damaged? YES - Replace the CKP sensor pulse plate, then go to step 10. NO - Go to step 8.
8. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
9. Replace the CKP sensor.
10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
11. Reset the ECM with the HDS.
12. Clear the CKP pattern with the HDS.
13. Do the ECM idle learn procedure.
14. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure.
15. Start the engine, and let it idle for 10 seconds .
16. Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS. Are any Temporary DTCs or DTCs indicated? YES - If DTC P0339 is indicated, check for poor connections or loose terminals at the CKP sensor and the ECM, then go to step 1. If any other Temporary DTCs or DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting. NO - Troubleshooting is complete.

visser

I figured it was a good idea to check the oil and the plugs after the first CEL. Glad I did becuase one of the them was loose.

One of the thread links I listed above includes a poster who was told by a dealer mechanic that his P0339 code could've been due to one his loose plugs. May not be the most to go on, but it's worth looking into.

Now that I'm getting a misfire, maybe it is plug related. But it looks like it could be due to other issues.

It's not my daily driver, so I'm inclined to leave it with the dealer. I'm still debating whether or not to tow it there and am open to suggestions. The misfire code only appears in vtec and under acceration, but I don't want to take any unnecessary risks or make the situation worse.

visser

In case anyone ever has the issue I had, does a search, gets this thread, and sees it unresolved:

My tuner believes the random misfiring was spark plug gap related. Since SC'ing I'd been running NGK7173's gapped at .35, without issues. He feels the extra boost I added requires a smaller gap, so he set it to .28, which is what he runs on his turbo S2000, and re-tuned (dyno dynamics). No more misfires and the car runs a little smoother.

While my boost is still lower than the 7lbs I expected (still getting 6lbs with a 4 inch pulley on ap2), my numbers went up between the first & second tunes:

280.7 to 289.9 rwhp (310 equivalent on dynojet, using the tuner's 7% adjustment factor).

179.8 to 184.1 tq (197 equivalent on dynojet).

I expected equal or lower numbers, so I'm very pleased, given the boost level.

And, according to the tuner, my retainers all look good, as well as the leak down and compression results:

Cyl %Leak Compr

1 2 267.5
2 6 252.5
3 4 257.5
4 2 262.5

If anyone has anything to add, disagrees with the results, etc, feel free.

I'm just glad my motor runs well again and appears to be in great shape, given how hard I drive.

CKit

I think an OBD scanner is a necessary tool for FI guys. Ebay sells them cheap.

visser

[QUOTE]

Yep, I actually keep the one I just bought under my seat, for now at least. It weighs practically nothing.

RACER

[QUOTE=visser,Aug 21 2007, 04:32 PM]the leak down and compression results:

Cyl