Engine Knocking/Rattling
#91
http://youtu.be/dYEwTGoCBso. I have the same issue after changing the oil as well. Ran with no issues before the oil change. I can clearly hear it on top. Can't hear once I rev it up a bit.
#92
http://youtu.be/dYEwTGoCBso.
I have the same issue after changing the oil as well. Ran with no issues before the oil change. I can clearly hear it on top. Can't hear once I rev it up a bit.
I have the same issue after changing the oil as well. Ran with no issues before the oil change. I can clearly hear it on top. Can't hear once I rev it up a bit.
What kind of oil were you using before & after? Maybe, higher viscosity oil was damping out the noise?
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#94
Taking off the rod cap is easy and may need to be done, service limit for rod bearings is .0024"(plastigauge) and rod end play service limit is .016"(measure with feeler gauge) .018" for crank. Tq specs for con rod is 22ft lbs + 60 deg.
#95
Originally Posted by Mexs2k' timestamp='1416175125' post='23407296
I'm really thinking the chain stretched. But doesn't explain noise going away after taking coil 1 out. Is there anyway of checking if chain stretched without taking it off?
Taking off the rod cap is easy and may need to be done, service limit for rod bearings is .0024"(plastigauge) and rod end play service limit is .016"(measure with feeler gauge) .018" for crank. Tq specs for con rod is 22ft lbs + 60 deg.
Would I have to take off head to change the rod bearings. I'm thinking I should be able to rotate crank and take off rod bearings without taking off head.
#96
I suppose you could replace the rod bearings without pulling the head. Sure would be a lot easier to pull the head. Need to inspect the crank surface, too. As it may need machining.
You prolly already know to lock the crank, when using Plastigauge. In order to get the most accurate reading.
Good luck!
You prolly already know to lock the crank, when using Plastigauge. In order to get the most accurate reading.
Good luck!
#97
You can get away with changing rod bearings without removing the head, often times from the factory you won't have equal bearings in all four journals so it's not critical that all of them are changed as a set, it won't affect the balance of the crank. As far as crank surface, light marks are acceptable as long as they don't catch your fingernail. I'd rather put new bearings without touching the crank journals than doing any polishing, but polishing is acceptable if there are minor marks. I've seen cars that had a spun rod bearing and crank journal wear wasn't too bad, in fact polishing and new bearings went another 40k miles and counting.
#98
I think I'm having the exact same problem, except every once in a while it will make a gargling sound for no more than 5 seconds and it goes away, the gargling sound doesn't happen very often but worries me just like the ticking/rattling sound it makes when warmed up and idling. Also on a cold startup it will screech sometimes I've heard that could be that I need a new timing chain tensioner. I really am curious about the ticking though, I switched from conventional oil to synthetic, been using royal purple, changed the oil twice so far gonna change it again today