Engine Knock
07-09-2012, 09:23 AM
#14
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Let's say it is a bearing, should I have any other work done while this is being fixed? Like when you do a clutch u do a flywheel or if your clutch master is leaking to also change the slave?
Should I go with OEM bearings or are there aftermarket alternatives I should be looking into.
Should I go with OEM bearings or are there aftermarket alternatives I should be looking into.
07-09-2012, 08:36 PM
#17
Only way to know how bad it is will be to open it up. I believe the crank is $1k, plus bearings and if there is any other damage it's just going to add up.
You can always remove the oil pan to get a look see without removing the motor.
You can always remove the oil pan to get a look see without removing the motor.
07-10-2012, 02:49 AM
#18
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So I went to my mechanics today to have a chat before I take the car in at the end of the week, and we discussed different possible scenarios and have decided to fix whatever problem I am experiencing on my current motor instead of swapping it out for another.
He will check through the sump for bottom end damage and remove rocker cover to assess top end damage and work out a plan of attack. I know bearings aren't worth much although it's mostly labour that I'll be paying for and the time it will take to receive necessary parts from Honda suppliers even though this is a daily driven S I'm not in a hurry or wanting to rush this process as I would prefer quality of work as opposed to turn around time.
I will update this thread with further details as they come to light and will document as much of the work as possible with photos for future reference for those who experience the same as myself
Keep you all posted
He will check through the sump for bottom end damage and remove rocker cover to assess top end damage and work out a plan of attack. I know bearings aren't worth much although it's mostly labour that I'll be paying for and the time it will take to receive necessary parts from Honda suppliers even though this is a daily driven S I'm not in a hurry or wanting to rush this process as I would prefer quality of work as opposed to turn around time.
I will update this thread with further details as they come to light and will document as much of the work as possible with photos for future reference for those who experience the same as myself
Keep you all posted
07-10-2012, 04:01 AM
#19
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Sounds like a scored #4 cylinder bore.
Take the oil pan off, put the pistons up top and check the cylinder bores from the bottom with a penlight. Scores will appear as wide black marks against the light grey cylinder walls.
People are telling you to find an engine because this one is not cost effective to fix.
If the cylinder is scored, game over. Even if you could bore it the allowable .025, the pistons are a grand USD.
If you spun a bearing, the crank is shot. Thats a grand as well.
On a warm compression test, high comp in #4 is the first sign of a failed #4 cylinder.
Take the oil pan off, put the pistons up top and check the cylinder bores from the bottom with a penlight. Scores will appear as wide black marks against the light grey cylinder walls.
People are telling you to find an engine because this one is not cost effective to fix.
If the cylinder is scored, game over. Even if you could bore it the allowable .025, the pistons are a grand USD.
If you spun a bearing, the crank is shot. Thats a grand as well.
On a warm compression test, high comp in #4 is the first sign of a failed #4 cylinder.
