Emergency Diff Help - all you smart diff people please help
10-26-2013, 07:33 AM
#21
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You don't need to open the dif.
Remove both flanges. Measure. If they are the same, a magic marker will do the trick.
Jordan is right about removal torque. It can literally take more than 200 to loosen a nut set at 100, especially with locktite and nylon.
Torque is for a fastener in motion.
Remove both flanges. Measure. If they are the same, a magic marker will do the trick.
Jordan is right about removal torque. It can literally take more than 200 to loosen a nut set at 100, especially with locktite and nylon.
Torque is for a fastener in motion.
10-26-2013, 07:36 AM
#22
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You don't need to open the dif.
Remove both flanges. Measure. If they are the same, a magic marker will do the trick.
Jordan is right about removal torque. It can literally take more than 200 to loosen a nut set at 100, especially with locktite and nylon.
Torque is for a fastener in motion.
Remove both flanges. Measure. If they are the same, a magic marker will do the trick.
Jordan is right about removal torque. It can literally take more than 200 to loosen a nut set at 100, especially with locktite and nylon.
Torque is for a fastener in motion.
I would need to mark it before ... I take them off - correct?
10-26-2013, 07:42 AM
#23
Mark just the one on the new diff yes..... But you're going to need to make what is essentially a large spanner wrench to hold the flange to break the nuts loose. My recommendation would be to buy some 1/8"x1" flat steel bar and then drill holes accordingly so you can bolt it to the flange with the same thread bolts that the driveshaft uses. It'll make a large lever for you to be able to somewhat easily break the nut loose.
10-26-2013, 07:53 AM
#24
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Start by measuring the pinion turning torque.
IOW: the torque you need to make it start to turn.
This will not be much and not easy to measure without a needle torque wrench.
You need it in the right range too, max 10Nm or so as you're measuring the turning torque of the ring as well.
Its possible to make your own torque measuring "device", basically a bar of a known length and a known (set of) weight(s).
Put the diff in a vice, bolt that bar to the flange so it horizontal, put a weight on it - close to centre to start - and move the weight outwards.
As soon as you know the true radial distance from the pinion centre to the centre of the weight that makes the pinion turn you calculate the torque = weight x lenght.
It's a bit .. well.. let's say: it works in theory.
If you're lucky the installer used new bearings and set the turning torque at the lower end of the spec.
So you have some room to play and the crush sleeve will stil work as it should.
If the above is too much I would not even try.
P.S. pinion-to-ring contact pattern is not affected by pinion torque.
That's done by changing pinion shim thickness.
IOW: the torque you need to make it start to turn.
This will not be much and not easy to measure without a needle torque wrench.
You need it in the right range too, max 10Nm or so as you're measuring the turning torque of the ring as well.
Its possible to make your own torque measuring "device", basically a bar of a known length and a known (set of) weight(s).
Put the diff in a vice, bolt that bar to the flange so it horizontal, put a weight on it - close to centre to start - and move the weight outwards.
As soon as you know the true radial distance from the pinion centre to the centre of the weight that makes the pinion turn you calculate the torque = weight x lenght.
It's a bit .. well.. let's say: it works in theory.
If you're lucky the installer used new bearings and set the turning torque at the lower end of the spec.
So you have some room to play and the crush sleeve will stil work as it should.
If the above is too much I would not even try.
P.S. pinion-to-ring contact pattern is not affected by pinion torque.
That's done by changing pinion shim thickness.
10-26-2013, 08:05 AM
#25
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so... I have been thinking about this....
pretty much screwed... just wayyyyyyyyyyyyy too much messing around at this point...
but I have been thinking about the "shipping" back and fourth ... blah blah...all of that.
In theory... I am thinking it would be way smarter...to just buy a ap2 drive shaft + the part on the end of the transmission and bill King's for it. Seems way cheeper ... on their end... and less work ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-2005-HOND...4bb046&vxp=mtr
+
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/parts...econdary-shaft
Looks like part number 7 there and some nuts / washers / bolts
so do you guys think this is a good option? - I mean looks like I could do that for $200 .... .. and shipping the diff alone both ways will be around that...
#1 what I just linked will that work? is it easy enough to do? with my crappy tech skills... I should be able to handel that right?
pretty much screwed... just wayyyyyyyyyyyyy too much messing around at this point...
but I have been thinking about the "shipping" back and fourth ... blah blah...all of that.
In theory... I am thinking it would be way smarter...to just buy a ap2 drive shaft + the part on the end of the transmission and bill King's for it. Seems way cheeper ... on their end... and less work ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-2005-HOND...4bb046&vxp=mtr
+
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/parts...econdary-shaft
Looks like part number 7 there and some nuts / washers / bolts
so do you guys think this is a good option? - I mean looks like I could do that for $200 .... .. and shipping the diff alone both ways will be around that...
#1 what I just linked will that work? is it easy enough to do? with my crappy tech skills... I should be able to handel that right?
10-26-2013, 08:29 AM
#26
It'll work...no doubt, You'll need to have someone hold a bar on the crank and have the tranny in gear so that you can properly remove and then torque the nut on the transmission. You'll need 6 front DS bolts, 6 rear DS bolts, 6 washers, AP2 DS, AP2 Trans. Flange, Nut, and washer. Watch how you put that washer on though as it goes on in a specific direction. Shouldn't take more than an hour once you have all the parts in hand.
10-26-2013, 08:41 AM
#27
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sounds dangerous lol I am assuming I should block the car... and make sure I do not die underneath.
OK so ... need big bar on the crank... and big bar on the 27 mm bolt I am assuming.
OK so ... need big bar on the crank... and big bar on the 27 mm bolt I am assuming.
10-26-2013, 08:33 PM
#30
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well update on anyone that has this issue... anyways...--- I now have everything "ready" for new parts. got the tranny bolt off it is 36 mm if anyone was wondering... it did take a breaker bar at both the bolt end and the crank shaft end.. with the tranny in gear. used a "small hammer to get the prop mount to slide or whatever.
now just need all the parts. if this does NOT WORK I will post again.
now just need all the parts. if this does NOT WORK I will post again.