Emergency Diff Help - all you smart diff people please help
10-26-2013, 06:45 AM
#11
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also sounds like it is going to need lots of tourque... like 100-200
so if I am "thinking" this correctly in my head.....
I would set my torque wrench "light" and it will break... then I stiffen it ... until the "bolt lossens".... and then that is the "tourque" I put the bolt back on with?
am I krazy here? or is that the correct way to do it?
lol -
so if I am "thinking" this correctly in my head.....
I would set my torque wrench "light" and it will break... then I stiffen it ... until the "bolt lossens".... and then that is the "tourque" I put the bolt back on with?
am I krazy here? or is that the correct way to do it?
lol -
10-26-2013, 06:49 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by Billman250' timestamp='1382797896' post='22847573
You may want to send them the dif, and the flange from the old dif.
All these questions lead me to believe you are the last person that should be attempting this.....that is unless you want to destroy your diff and wind up paying for another rebuild....
this is VERY possible lol.... but... as stated... very smart person... just need the correct guidance.. so... just thought I would see if someone was a good enough teach to have me do this. I also like to get the "whole" story before I go do something I have never done before.
for example.... I can confidently make maps on my stand alone AEM ... after the guy at the dyno took 4 hours and explained to me what is going on... so if I can do that shit... I am almost positive I can do this...
10-26-2013, 06:49 AM
#13
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The pinion nut is tightened in small increments, which locks the bearings to the pinion by bottoming out against a collar, which crushes.
Eventually the bearings will contact the races, and the bearings will begin to load. Once the proper load is reached (turning force) the pinion is now set.
BUT THEN....the ring gear is installed and pattern is set to THAT pinion setting.
So basically, if there are 175 ft lbs on that nut right now, the new nut will need that same torque to preserve the turning torque AND the pattern.
Pattern is not super critical right now, because the gearset has not been run in.
but the turning force of the pinion must be preserved.
here's another way....if the old dif flange and new dif flange are the same thickness, right down to .001, then you could simply use a marker and mark the nut to the pinion. Then just install the new flange, tighten until marks align and you are done.
Jordan will get this, if you do too then you could be done in 5 minutes
Eventually the bearings will contact the races, and the bearings will begin to load. Once the proper load is reached (turning force) the pinion is now set.
BUT THEN....the ring gear is installed and pattern is set to THAT pinion setting.
So basically, if there are 175 ft lbs on that nut right now, the new nut will need that same torque to preserve the turning torque AND the pattern.
Pattern is not super critical right now, because the gearset has not been run in.
but the turning force of the pinion must be preserved.
here's another way....if the old dif flange and new dif flange are the same thickness, right down to .001, then you could simply use a marker and mark the nut to the pinion. Then just install the new flange, tighten until marks align and you are done.
Jordan will get this, if you do too then you could be done in 5 minutes
10-26-2013, 06:57 AM
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OK - I am going to take one more stab at this... and will let you decide .. if I should do this..
getting the old "nut and flange off" -- NOT AN ISSUE I will figure it out...
Use ap1 flange
Use ap2 nut and washer crap
if I understand this correctly... I have this diff 100% installed besides the drive shaft... I should be able to lock the E-brake and that should stop wheels from turning? so I can take nut off?
Unbolting ap2 nut (this is the part I am unclear) -- but I think ... I use my torque wrench in reverse... until I specifically find out "how much" torque this was put on there with. --- unbolt nut.... swap out the ap1 part
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING SUPER f@#kING CLEAN
then .... put some super lock tight on there.... (but wouldn't the old lock tight messup my tourque ides from above? )... so maybe that is out...
torque ap1 flange on with AP2 bolt and washer..
just doesn't seem that hard...
BESIDES how to figure out the tourqe to put it back on with... ???
yes ... no..?
f@#k it wait the 6 months and send it back? lol
KILL ME!
getting the old "nut and flange off" -- NOT AN ISSUE I will figure it out...
Use ap1 flange
Use ap2 nut and washer crap
if I understand this correctly... I have this diff 100% installed besides the drive shaft... I should be able to lock the E-brake and that should stop wheels from turning? so I can take nut off?
Unbolting ap2 nut (this is the part I am unclear) -- but I think ... I use my torque wrench in reverse... until I specifically find out "how much" torque this was put on there with. --- unbolt nut.... swap out the ap1 part
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING SUPER f@#kING CLEAN
then .... put some super lock tight on there.... (but wouldn't the old lock tight messup my tourque ides from above? )... so maybe that is out...
torque ap1 flange on with AP2 bolt and washer..
just doesn't seem that hard...
BESIDES how to figure out the tourqe to put it back on with... ???
yes ... no..?
f@#k it wait the 6 months and send it back? lol
KILL ME!
10-26-2013, 07:04 AM
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The pinion nut is tightened in small increments, which locks the bearings to the pinion by bottoming out against a collar, which crushes.
Eventually the bearings will contact the races, and the bearings will begin to load. Once the proper load is reached (turning force) the pinion is now set.
BUT THEN....the ring gear is installed and pattern is set to THAT pinion setting.
So basically, if there are 175 ft lbs on that nut right now, the new nut will need that same torque to preserve the turning torque AND the pattern.
Pattern is not super critical right now, because the gearset has not been run in.
but the turning force of the pinion must be preserved.
here's another way....if the old dif flange and new dif flange are the same thickness, right down to .001, then you could simply use a marker and mark the nut to the pinion. Then just install the new flange, tighten until marks align and you are done.
Jordan will get this, if you do too then you could be done in 5 minutes
Eventually the bearings will contact the races, and the bearings will begin to load. Once the proper load is reached (turning force) the pinion is now set.
BUT THEN....the ring gear is installed and pattern is set to THAT pinion setting.
So basically, if there are 175 ft lbs on that nut right now, the new nut will need that same torque to preserve the turning torque AND the pattern.
Pattern is not super critical right now, because the gearset has not been run in.
but the turning force of the pinion must be preserved.
here's another way....if the old dif flange and new dif flange are the same thickness, right down to .001, then you could simply use a marker and mark the nut to the pinion. Then just install the new flange, tighten until marks align and you are done.
Jordan will get this, if you do too then you could be done in 5 minutes
OK lol -
I 100% get the concept now...and yes .. the easiest would be if they "measure" the same..... if the measuring thing is "not" solution...
how do I find the proper torque or what this specific one is torqued at?
10-26-2013, 07:09 AM
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maybe this is something I should add...
both CASES on my diffs are closed...
do they need to be "open" to do this properly? see what I am saying.... I can not "see" inside these....at this time....
does that matter? not matter? maybe another stupid question from me but... just thought I would bring it up....
both CASES on my diffs are closed...
do they need to be "open" to do this properly? see what I am saying.... I can not "see" inside these....at this time....
does that matter? not matter? maybe another stupid question from me but... just thought I would bring it up....
10-26-2013, 07:12 AM
#17
The pinion nut is tightened in small increments, which locks the bearings to the pinion by bottoming out against a collar, which crushes.
Eventually the bearings will contact the races, and the bearings will begin to load. Once the proper load is reached (turning force) the pinion is now set.
BUT THEN....the ring gear is installed and pattern is set to THAT pinion setting.
So basically, if there are 175 ft lbs on that nut right now, the new nut will need that same torque to preserve the turning torque AND the pattern.
Pattern is not super critical right now, because the gearset has not been run in.
but the turning force of the pinion must be preserved.
here's another way....if the old dif flange and new dif flange are the same thickness, right down to .001, then you could simply use a marker and mark the nut to the pinion. Then just install the new flange, tighten until marks align and you are done.
Jordan will get this, if you do too then you could be done in 5 minutes
Eventually the bearings will contact the races, and the bearings will begin to load. Once the proper load is reached (turning force) the pinion is now set.
BUT THEN....the ring gear is installed and pattern is set to THAT pinion setting.
So basically, if there are 175 ft lbs on that nut right now, the new nut will need that same torque to preserve the turning torque AND the pattern.
Pattern is not super critical right now, because the gearset has not been run in.
but the turning force of the pinion must be preserved.
here's another way....if the old dif flange and new dif flange are the same thickness, right down to .001, then you could simply use a marker and mark the nut to the pinion. Then just install the new flange, tighten until marks align and you are done.
Jordan will get this, if you do too then you could be done in 5 minutes
It could, in theory be just that easy. Only issue is, I doubt he has a mic to properly check flange thickness if he's talking about having to go buy the tools to perform this job. Might be time to pony up OP and buy yourself some big boy tools, DO NOT cheap out on the mic if you go that route.
10-26-2013, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Billman250' timestamp='1382798963' post='22847593
The pinion nut is tightened in small increments, which locks the bearings to the pinion by bottoming out against a collar, which crushes.
Eventually the bearings will contact the races, and the bearings will begin to load. Once the proper load is reached (turning force) the pinion is now set.
BUT THEN....the ring gear is installed and pattern is set to THAT pinion setting.
So basically, if there are 175 ft lbs on that nut right now, the new nut will need that same torque to preserve the turning torque AND the pattern.
Pattern is not super critical right now, because the gearset has not been run in.
but the turning force of the pinion must be preserved.
here's another way....if the old dif flange and new dif flange are the same thickness, right down to .001, then you could simply use a marker and mark the nut to the pinion. Then just install the new flange, tighten until marks align and you are done.
Jordan will get this, if you do too then you could be done in 5 minutes
Eventually the bearings will contact the races, and the bearings will begin to load. Once the proper load is reached (turning force) the pinion is now set.
BUT THEN....the ring gear is installed and pattern is set to THAT pinion setting.
So basically, if there are 175 ft lbs on that nut right now, the new nut will need that same torque to preserve the turning torque AND the pattern.
Pattern is not super critical right now, because the gearset has not been run in.
but the turning force of the pinion must be preserved.
here's another way....if the old dif flange and new dif flange are the same thickness, right down to .001, then you could simply use a marker and mark the nut to the pinion. Then just install the new flange, tighten until marks align and you are done.
Jordan will get this, if you do too then you could be done in 5 minutes
It could, in theory be just that easy. Only issue is, I doubt he has a mic to properly check flange thickness if he's talking about having to go buy the tools to perform this job. Might be time to pony up OP and buy yourself some big boy tools, DO NOT cheap out on the mic if you go that route.I do not have a micrometer, (assuming that is what you are talking about) but I have used them when I worked in a CNC shop making gears for transsmissions for 4 wheelers lol
ironic right... I actually worked at a plant and did QC for a company that forged gears for Polaris but I don't know how to do anything ! lol.... if that is not an option... (and it is) --- any more ideas on how to "know" the correct tourque to put this nut back on? was my idea in the right ball park? or way off? using my torque wrench in reverse to find what it is on there now with? what do you think?
10-26-2013, 07:23 AM
#19
Won't work.....breaking torque or the torque required to start turning the nut again (which you dont want to do because it will crush further) is not the same torque as what the nut was actually installed to. Especially since the nut will have been (or should have been) staked and loctite used.
10-26-2013, 07:27 AM
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Won't work.....breaking torque or the torque required to start turning the nut again (which you dont want to do because it will crush further) is not the same torque as what the nut was actually installed to. Especially since the nut will have been (or should have been) staked and loctite used.
so... if you were in my garage right now... knowing all my variables... that I have explained the best I can...
how would you tackle this project?
could you do this yourself.. with this diff still installed in the car? if so... how? if not... then hell... NO WAY I could do it... so I should just take it out...and send it back to Kings..... right?
thanks for answering my last question.. I see what you are saying... for sure why that idea wouldn't work.