Emergency Diff Help - all you smart diff people please help
10-26-2013, 05:41 AM
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Emergency Diff Help - all you smart diff people please help
OK - had a well know S2000 place build me a diff. they did the reinforced every thing and a set of 4.57 gears ... blah blah... sent me the diff 100% "done" so I can just swap it right in.
Here is my issue.... some how by mistake... they sent me a diff with the ap2 flange on it... and I have an ap1
it is Sat... car is at the shop.... and here I sit.. stuck... with this thing all taken apart and I am not sure what to do. I have not busted apart the diffs
Question
1. I want to know if I should
A. Just say screw ship both diffs all the way across the country ... let them deal with it and wait the two weeks to get it done... to make sure it is done correct
B. Try to make the "swap" myself by taking the bolt off and switching the flanges (I have NO OTHER PARTS) ... seals... whatever ... I have a complete ap1 used diff and a FREASH REBUILD ap2 diff that the company did... so... if I use the freash rebuild... and swap... would I need new parts?
I am super disappointed... today is basically our last day I could even drive the S2000....I am in North Dakota and the snow is going to fall.... so... if I wait the two weeks.... I will not get to drive the car until March... and that is just super flipping suck balls... but I also WANT TO KNOW everything is going to be good... safe... and built correct. So... if you guys think I can "do it" just by taking the big bolt off..... and re-tourquing it down... and using some blue lock tight... I mean I could do that... but I you think I need parts... then I am dead in the water....
SUPER DIFF BUILDERS PLEASE HELP!!!! and just let me know if you think I can tackle this without issues or if I should just say screw it and .... let them deal with it. super sad panda
if you think I can tackle it myself... any quick instructions would be great. thanks so much
Here is my issue.... some how by mistake... they sent me a diff with the ap2 flange on it... and I have an ap1
it is Sat... car is at the shop.... and here I sit.. stuck... with this thing all taken apart and I am not sure what to do. I have not busted apart the diffs
Question
1. I want to know if I should
A. Just say screw ship both diffs all the way across the country ... let them deal with it and wait the two weeks to get it done... to make sure it is done correct
B. Try to make the "swap" myself by taking the bolt off and switching the flanges (I have NO OTHER PARTS) ... seals... whatever ... I have a complete ap1 used diff and a FREASH REBUILD ap2 diff that the company did... so... if I use the freash rebuild... and swap... would I need new parts?
I am super disappointed... today is basically our last day I could even drive the S2000....I am in North Dakota and the snow is going to fall.... so... if I wait the two weeks.... I will not get to drive the car until March... and that is just super flipping suck balls... but I also WANT TO KNOW everything is going to be good... safe... and built correct. So... if you guys think I can "do it" just by taking the big bolt off..... and re-tourquing it down... and using some blue lock tight... I mean I could do that... but I you think I need parts... then I am dead in the water....
SUPER DIFF BUILDERS PLEASE HELP!!!! and just let me know if you think I can tackle this without issues or if I should just say screw it and .... let them deal with it. super sad panda
if you think I can tackle it myself... any quick instructions would be great. thanks so much
10-26-2013, 06:01 AM
#2
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Being that the dif has not been run, you can swap the flanges as there is no wear pattern to preserve.
It will want to go on AS TIGHT AS the old one was. Turning force of the pinion is the way to indicate this precisely.
Clean the threads of the pinion and the nut spotless with brake clean, dry with compressed air, and use locktite on the pinion nut.
No need to swap seal, leave it alone.
One big problem, you will disturb you old dif and it will likely whine.
It will want to go on AS TIGHT AS the old one was. Turning force of the pinion is the way to indicate this precisely.
Clean the threads of the pinion and the nut spotless with brake clean, dry with compressed air, and use locktite on the pinion nut.
No need to swap seal, leave it alone.
One big problem, you will disturb you old dif and it will likely whine.
10-26-2013, 06:08 AM
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ok... let me be clear here... so I can do this right
#1 - I 100% do NOT CARE ABOUT THE OLD DIFF -- they want that from me and are going to rebuild it.
#2 - so you are telling me I can do this? ... like seriously? do I need to tourqe it to a certin spec.... ???? people talk about crush washers... blah blah... tourquine to certain deal... blah blah.... I don't know... any more details would be great...
if you think I can do this... I am heading to the store right now to buy the parts.... so get tons of break cleaner.... + get the lock tight or whatever?
do you know the size of the bold? will have to buy that too?
how do I keep it from "turning" while I unscrew the bolt.... ? just hold it really tight?
#3 - I have the NEW DIFF already mounted in the car... and like last thing to do ... is hook up the drive shaft... should I take the diff all the way out ... or... do I need to? what do you think?
more details... but wow thank so much for the fast response.
#1 - I 100% do NOT CARE ABOUT THE OLD DIFF -- they want that from me and are going to rebuild it.
#2 - so you are telling me I can do this? ... like seriously? do I need to tourqe it to a certin spec.... ???? people talk about crush washers... blah blah... tourquine to certain deal... blah blah.... I don't know... any more details would be great...
if you think I can do this... I am heading to the store right now to buy the parts.... so get tons of break cleaner.... + get the lock tight or whatever?
do you know the size of the bold? will have to buy that too?
how do I keep it from "turning" while I unscrew the bolt.... ? just hold it really tight?
#3 - I have the NEW DIFF already mounted in the car... and like last thing to do ... is hook up the drive shaft... should I take the diff all the way out ... or... do I need to? what do you think?
more details... but wow thank so much for the fast response.
10-26-2013, 06:10 AM
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I am also confused by this statement
It will want to go on AS TIGHT AS the old one was. Turning force of the pinion is the way to indicate this precisely.
please help
It will want to go on AS TIGHT AS the old one was. Turning force of the pinion is the way to indicate this precisely.
please help
10-26-2013, 06:20 AM
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another question
ON THE GOOD ONE... the one I am putting in the car
do I use the nut and washer from the (ap2) the one that it was built with?
or do I use the nut and washer from the old ap1 because that is the flange I am swapping on there
or doesn't it matter?
ON THE GOOD ONE... the one I am putting in the car
do I use the nut and washer from the (ap2) the one that it was built with?
or do I use the nut and washer from the old ap1 because that is the flange I am swapping on there
or doesn't it matter?
10-26-2013, 06:21 AM
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I need to address this as well...
this is a 'new final drive" but it is a 'rebuilt" diff.... as in the gears in there I am sure...
knowing that? do I need to worry about wear pattern / whatever?
this is a 'new final drive" but it is a 'rebuilt" diff.... as in the gears in there I am sure...
knowing that? do I need to worry about wear pattern / whatever?
10-26-2013, 06:31 AM
#7
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Too much man 
Use the nut from the new built dif.
One can of brake clean is all you need.
You will need to come up with a holding tool to hold the flange still while removing and installing the nut.
Dif building is a precise job, and is by no means a DIY unless you are very mechanically proficient.
The torque on the nut is critical...there is no torque setting. The setting is determined by the crushing of the collar to achieve the proper turning torque of the pinion. you can easily destroy the dif in 10 minutes if that nut is not set properly.
You may want to send them the dif, and the flange from the old dif.
OR...you can use an ap2 driveshaft, trans flange, and bolts. No settings to preserve just changing parts.
Use the nut from the new built dif.
One can of brake clean is all you need.
You will need to come up with a holding tool to hold the flange still while removing and installing the nut.
Dif building is a precise job, and is by no means a DIY unless you are very mechanically proficient.
The torque on the nut is critical...there is no torque setting. The setting is determined by the crushing of the collar to achieve the proper turning torque of the pinion. you can easily destroy the dif in 10 minutes if that nut is not set properly.
You may want to send them the dif, and the flange from the old dif.
OR...you can use an ap2 driveshaft, trans flange, and bolts. No settings to preserve just changing parts.
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10-26-2013, 06:36 AM
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10-26-2013, 06:37 AM
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Too much man
Use the nut from the new built dif.
One can of brake clean is all you need.
Dif building is a precise job.
The torque on the nut is critical...there is no torque setting. The setting is determined by the crushing of the collar to achieve the proper turning torque of the pinion. you can easily destroy the dif in 10 minutes if that nut is not set properly.
You may want to send them the dif, and the flange from the old dif.
Use the nut from the new built dif.
One can of brake clean is all you need.
Dif building is a precise job.
The torque on the nut is critical...there is no torque setting. The setting is determined by the crushing of the collar to achieve the proper turning torque of the pinion. you can easily destroy the dif in 10 minutes if that nut is not set properly.
You may want to send them the dif, and the flange from the old dif.
shoot... that is what I was wondering. bottom line... I am super technical... but I have never done one... and might not "understand" what is really going on.
I was going to learn by taking apart the old one before I sent it to them. It "seems" so flipping simple in my head... only issues I can see is this "tourquing' correctly... and that just does not seem that difficult... but for some reason people say it is... why is it so difficult? do I not have the tools? is it done by "feel" or ... how do you know it is done correctly. if you tell me "how" it I can 100% do it... it can not be that magical ... can it lol
10-26-2013, 06:41 AM
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nervous... think I am understanding here a bit now..
Can I re-use a crush sleeve?
No. Once the crush sleeve's tension between the bearings is released it cannot hold the proper tension again. This is also true if a crush sleeve is over-crushed during installation. It must be discarded and replaced with a new one.
Can I re-use a crush sleeve?
No. Once the crush sleeve's tension between the bearings is released it cannot hold the proper tension again. This is also true if a crush sleeve is over-crushed during installation. It must be discarded and replaced with a new one.