Elevated Copper in Blackstone Oil Analysis
#11
The elevated copper levels you have experienced are likely related to your high silicon levels. There is some silicon (in the form of silicates in the additive package) in Mobil 1, but UOAs on Mobil 1 suggest that it should be around 4 to 6. Your last reading was 42!
You either have a K&N air filter, a leak in your air filter, or you've been driving on some very dusty roads. Dust in the air raises your silicon levels, and that kind of silicon is very abrasive. That would explain the high copper levels.
It's interesting that your lead levels aren't that high. I would have expected the lead levels to be higher as well. But your iron levels are starting to creep up and we don't have cast iron cylinders.
If I were you, I'd check/replace your air filter and make sure your PCV valve is working correctly. If you modified your air intake, I'd look at that too.
You either have a K&N air filter, a leak in your air filter, or you've been driving on some very dusty roads. Dust in the air raises your silicon levels, and that kind of silicon is very abrasive. That would explain the high copper levels.
It's interesting that your lead levels aren't that high. I would have expected the lead levels to be higher as well. But your iron levels are starting to creep up and we don't have cast iron cylinders.
If I were you, I'd check/replace your air filter and make sure your PCV valve is working correctly. If you modified your air intake, I'd look at that too.
#13
Oops Sorry. I misread your UOA. I don't think your wear numbers are all that bad now.
Here's a UOA from BITOG for an S2000 using Redline:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima...ic;f=3;t=002928
Notice that your numbers are much better than his, and his UOA was considered pretty good. Of particular interest are the comments by Patman, who is an administrator at BITOG, and one of the most respected members at that site. A compliment from him means a lot. So your numbers are fine.
Here's a UOA from BITOG for an S2000 using Redline:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima...ic;f=3;t=002928
Notice that your numbers are much better than his, and his UOA was considered pretty good. Of particular interest are the comments by Patman, who is an administrator at BITOG, and one of the most respected members at that site. A compliment from him means a lot. So your numbers are fine.
#14
just an FYI, since one of the guys here mentioned thrust bearings. do you sit with your foot on the clutch while it warms up? if so DONT, that is the worst thing to do for the thrust bearing. have your foot on the clutch only long enough for the motor to fire. then let off, and allow the motor to warm up. at least 30 sec's to 1 full minute before you drive. im sure your copper levels will settle, i doubt you have anything serious going on. go rod the hell out of it. youll be juuuust fine. late
#15
Originally Posted by S2oooNvegas,Jun 10 2006, 04:06 PM
just an FYI, since one of the guys here mentioned thrust bearings. do you sit with your foot on the clucth while it warms up?
However, I think you are referring to the throwout bearing. Since the throwout bearing resides in the bellhousing and is not in contact with engine oil, even if I did ride the clutch it wouldn't affect my oil analysis.
#16
Originally Posted by CoralDoc,May 7 2006, 10:59 PM
The engine is as it came from the factory except that I was using a Fumoto oil drain valve (made of brass). It was removed during the last oil change. In 3k miles I will sample the new oil and have it analyzed, then I'll report back here with the results.
The drain valve was installed during the first oil change and was in place for the 2nd and 3rd oil changes where low copper levels were reported. High copper levels were documented in oil from the fourth and fifth oil change.
The drain valve was installed during the first oil change and was in place for the 2nd and 3rd oil changes where low copper levels were reported. High copper levels were documented in oil from the fourth and fifth oil change.
#17
As far as I can tell, there's nothing wrong with the Fumoto valve. A lot of people use them with success and I had no problems with mine either.
I removed it since it is brass (contains copper) and I wanted to eliminate a possible variable. Note that for two oil changes following valve installation copper levels were normal, so the slightly elevated copper levels could have been due to other reasons.
I removed it since it is brass (contains copper) and I wanted to eliminate a possible variable. Note that for two oil changes following valve installation copper levels were normal, so the slightly elevated copper levels could have been due to other reasons.
#18
my post
Check out my post. The connecting rod bearings can begin to wear and make no noise. The engine might just seem a little louder than you remember when you first bought it.
I don't want to freak you out ....but I'd check the connecting rod bearings.
To get an idea of what this requires check out the post in the technical libray about changing the oil banjo bolts. there are some great shots of the under side of the engine with the pan removed. you can see the connect rods from those pictures.
Checkin the main bearing requires alot more wrenching then just checking the connecting rod bearings.
also when you drain the oil pour some on a plate or whatever and bring it in direct natural sunlight....if you see...tiny, tiny, tiny gold or bronze or cooper color flakes you got bearing wear. The looked like a dark copper color in my oil.
mine wore thru the steel or lead or what ever and to the copper in certin sections of the bearings. Perfomance was not effected and until it started making a clank metal noise at certin rpms I had no idea of the wear/problem....but it did seem slighly louder than I remember when the car was new.
Check out my post. The connecting rod bearings can begin to wear and make no noise. The engine might just seem a little louder than you remember when you first bought it.
I don't want to freak you out ....but I'd check the connecting rod bearings.
To get an idea of what this requires check out the post in the technical libray about changing the oil banjo bolts. there are some great shots of the under side of the engine with the pan removed. you can see the connect rods from those pictures.
Checkin the main bearing requires alot more wrenching then just checking the connecting rod bearings.
also when you drain the oil pour some on a plate or whatever and bring it in direct natural sunlight....if you see...tiny, tiny, tiny gold or bronze or cooper color flakes you got bearing wear. The looked like a dark copper color in my oil.
mine wore thru the steel or lead or what ever and to the copper in certin sections of the bearings. Perfomance was not effected and until it started making a clank metal noise at certin rpms I had no idea of the wear/problem....but it did seem slighly louder than I remember when the car was new.
#19
Many moons ago I worked with Blackstone to set up an S2K database. I spent a lot of time pimping their service as I believe in the value. That being said you should be able to get a look at other S2000 analysis, mine included. My guess is that you introduced the substance when you put in the oil drain spigot (IMHO).
Utah
Utah
#20
having seen many F20's tore down, my guess is the bearings, i've seen em stretched, flatened, and totally come apart in layers, with the copper shreds laying in the oil pan, just to be safe I would remove the oil pan and inspect, and check your oil on a regular basis.