driver side brake caliper seized
#1
Thread Starter
driver side brake caliper seized
Hello All,
Was wondering if you could help me out. I was changing my rear pads and I noticed the inside pad on the driver side was much thicker than the outside. The rear passenger pads had nearly even wear inside and out.
I tried using a brake piston reset tool to push the piston in and it didn't move. My buddy immediately said the piston had seized. I tried and tried again, and finally got it to move. The weird part is once it got moving there was the regular resistance. Now I have new pads on and the pistons are all reset.
My questions are:
1) how did this happen?
2) how do I prevent this from happening again?
My buddy did say that a new caliper may be in order. But he also mentioned that this shouldn't happen for a 2003 car.
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
chikai
Was wondering if you could help me out. I was changing my rear pads and I noticed the inside pad on the driver side was much thicker than the outside. The rear passenger pads had nearly even wear inside and out.
I tried using a brake piston reset tool to push the piston in and it didn't move. My buddy immediately said the piston had seized. I tried and tried again, and finally got it to move. The weird part is once it got moving there was the regular resistance. Now I have new pads on and the pistons are all reset.
My questions are:
1) how did this happen?
2) how do I prevent this from happening again?
My buddy did say that a new caliper may be in order. But he also mentioned that this shouldn't happen for a 2003 car.
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
chikai
#2
Former Moderator
You don't push the rear caliper pistons in. You have to turn the pistons clockwise, and "thread" them into the retracted position.
The e-brake must release, and the caliper slide pins mst be free and lubricated with high temp "brake pin only" grease. (wheel bearing grease isn't going to cut it)
The e-brake must release, and the caliper slide pins mst be free and lubricated with high temp "brake pin only" grease. (wheel bearing grease isn't going to cut it)
#3
Thread Starter
right...i meant to say twist...i was using the rear brake reset tool...the one that attaches to a wrench.
actually I had another question. I know my OEM and racing pads both had this little notch on the back of the brake pad. I was told that notch was to be aligned into the cross of the piston.
The new set that I got did not have it. Is that going to be a problem?
actually I had another question. I know my OEM and racing pads both had this little notch on the back of the brake pad. I was told that notch was to be aligned into the cross of the piston.
The new set that I got did not have it. Is that going to be a problem?
#5
Just a shot in the dark here, but does the E-brake actuate just the driver's side caliper or both rear calipers? Could you have driven around with the E-brake engaged at some point?, I know I've done it once or twice.
#6
Former Moderator
The e-brake works on both calipers.
The raised pin on the back of the inside brake pad must be aligned with the slot in the caliper. I've never run any pads without it, So I can't tell you if it will have an effect on the e-brake.
If the pins slide freely, and the caliper doesn't release hydraulic line pressure whe the pedal is released don't drive the car. It will drag untill the new rear pads are worn out. You need to double check if the e-brake is also releasing.
You can either rebuild the existing caliper, or get a new one.
The raised pin on the back of the inside brake pad must be aligned with the slot in the caliper. I've never run any pads without it, So I can't tell you if it will have an effect on the e-brake.
If the pins slide freely, and the caliper doesn't release hydraulic line pressure whe the pedal is released don't drive the car. It will drag untill the new rear pads are worn out. You need to double check if the e-brake is also releasing.
You can either rebuild the existing caliper, or get a new one.
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