GateCrasher

Its the best I can do with my limited mechanical knowledge.

what is the appropriate method for measuring the results? Check the head before and after?

starchland

I dont think its lack of mechanical knowledge im just playin the devils advocate ya know?. im just saying 2 mpg or butt dyno have so many factors playing into it. Maybe looking at the head might yield better results or checking for compression/leakdown? But if you did think this product worked, then it worked.

rob-2

It comes down to the guy with the bigger dick.

I mean really. The average person can only measure so much at home. Never mind debating on the internet. Forget MPG or burnt oil. Just get to the point. Compare dick sizes and end the debate.

I'm being sarcastic. I think the ways you measured are reasonable.

180tumbleweed

I used a whole can on mine at around 90k because I noticed varnish/dark spots in the valve cover when I took it off. I changed the oil at 93k. I then added another half can at 100k and kept up with the service intervals. At 105k I took the valve cover off and noticed that it had done its job.

For 10 bucks, it worked. I also used b-12 fuel additive every other fill up and Royal Purple oil with a K&N filter changed at 2,800 miles normally.
110,000 and its as good as new!

-Chris

starchland

and what oil did you use before the royal purple?

zeroptzero

when oils vapourize they can leave deposits behind. A common area to vapourize is at the piston ring/cylinder area due to high heat and oil combination. When rings get too many deposits on them they can be stuck/frozen/siezed whatever it is that one calls it. At that point the rings don't do their job very well causing increased oil consumption and possibly loss of performance. This is where products such as Auto-Rx, Seafoam, MMO, Riselone, BG, etc....., can have some benefit.

Oils that leave behind higher levels of deposits are typically Group1>Group2>Group 3. Thus it isn't merely a function of changing your oil on a regular basis, you could do that and still end up with deposit issues while the rest of engine is relatively clean.

True synthetics such as Group 4 and Group 5 can vapourize without leaving behind many deposits, they can also be very good at cleaning engine internals as a side benefit to their chemistry.

zeroptzero

that's a pretty good first hand testimonial IMO. Some products do work as advertised, unfortunately there are too many more that don't and they spoil the whole bunch.