Does anyone have a DIY for a radiator coolant flush?
03-29-2011, 08:47 AM
#1
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Does anyone have a DIY for a radiator coolant flush?
I've tried using the search feature and was unsuccessful. I know there is a DIY on this site for a radiator coolant flush, but I just can't find the thread/threads. Anyone have the link? I also checked the DIY stickies in this forum and didn't see it in them.
Thanks for your help
Thanks for your help
03-29-2011, 10:32 AM
#3
There has to be a link to one somewhere, but this is how I do it:
Turn on the ignition and put the cabin heater to full hot temperature selection, and turn off the ignition. Remove rad cap while cold, open drain cock at base of rad, dump fluid into pan underneath. I don't remove the block drain bolt, it is a bitch to remove and access and I still get over 6 quarts out of the system which is pretty much all of it as far as I can tell. Once the rad is drained I dump a bit of clean water through it to get the last remaining sediment out that might exist at he base of the rad and drain it all out. Dump the overflow tank and clean it out. Close the drain cock and re-fill the radiator with Honda Type 2 coolant up to the base of the rad neck, fill the overflow tank up to full hot level.
This is how I bleed it. Run the car with the rad cap open until you get 3 bars on the temp gauge it will take a bit of time and you will have some fluid spill out of the rad fill neck, soak up the overflow with rags. If the fluid level drops add fluid. Once the temp gauge hits 3 bars temp close the rad cap tight and shut the car off, then open up the bleed bolt on the intake manifold, allow excess air and fluid to spill out until there are no air bubbles in the fluid. The fluid will be hot and can shoot out a few inches until all of the air is gone, have some rags around it to absorb excess fluid spill. Close the air bleed bolt and tighten to 7 foot lbs or just snug it down if you don't have a torque wrench, be careful not to overtighten it.
Once the car is cold again open the rad cap and fill to the base of the fill neck again if the fluid level has dropped, fill overflow tank if needed. Close the cap tight once full. You should be close to using 2 jugs of Honda coolant during the process.
If necessary repeat the bleed process a second time if air still exists in the system. Go for a drive and see how it runs and keep an eye on the temp gauge. If you ever get into an overheating situation shut it down if things approach the 4 bar or higher mark (ap1 reference here).
I've used this method 3 times in the last 6 months (once normal maintenance, second time replacing rad hoses, and third time replacing with Mishimoto rad). I've never had air bubble issues with the cooling system unlike many people who have replaced radiators on their s2k's.
If you are really intent on removing the block drain bolt all the power to you, I personally don't think it is worth it and I refuse to touch it, the bolt is located behind the exhaust header on the passenger side of the block.
Everyone may have a slightly different method, I know this one has worked for me the last 3 times.
Turn on the ignition and put the cabin heater to full hot temperature selection, and turn off the ignition. Remove rad cap while cold, open drain cock at base of rad, dump fluid into pan underneath. I don't remove the block drain bolt, it is a bitch to remove and access and I still get over 6 quarts out of the system which is pretty much all of it as far as I can tell. Once the rad is drained I dump a bit of clean water through it to get the last remaining sediment out that might exist at he base of the rad and drain it all out. Dump the overflow tank and clean it out. Close the drain cock and re-fill the radiator with Honda Type 2 coolant up to the base of the rad neck, fill the overflow tank up to full hot level.
This is how I bleed it. Run the car with the rad cap open until you get 3 bars on the temp gauge it will take a bit of time and you will have some fluid spill out of the rad fill neck, soak up the overflow with rags. If the fluid level drops add fluid. Once the temp gauge hits 3 bars temp close the rad cap tight and shut the car off, then open up the bleed bolt on the intake manifold, allow excess air and fluid to spill out until there are no air bubbles in the fluid. The fluid will be hot and can shoot out a few inches until all of the air is gone, have some rags around it to absorb excess fluid spill. Close the air bleed bolt and tighten to 7 foot lbs or just snug it down if you don't have a torque wrench, be careful not to overtighten it.
Once the car is cold again open the rad cap and fill to the base of the fill neck again if the fluid level has dropped, fill overflow tank if needed. Close the cap tight once full. You should be close to using 2 jugs of Honda coolant during the process.
If necessary repeat the bleed process a second time if air still exists in the system. Go for a drive and see how it runs and keep an eye on the temp gauge. If you ever get into an overheating situation shut it down if things approach the 4 bar or higher mark (ap1 reference here).
I've used this method 3 times in the last 6 months (once normal maintenance, second time replacing rad hoses, and third time replacing with Mishimoto rad). I've never had air bubble issues with the cooling system unlike many people who have replaced radiators on their s2k's.
If you are really intent on removing the block drain bolt all the power to you, I personally don't think it is worth it and I refuse to touch it, the bolt is located behind the exhaust header on the passenger side of the block.
Everyone may have a slightly different method, I know this one has worked for me the last 3 times.
03-29-2011, 11:14 AM
#4
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03-29-2011, 11:15 AM
#5
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https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/818...h/page__st__25
Read the entire thread and pay special attention to Billman250's posts.
Read the entire thread and pay special attention to Billman250's posts.
03-29-2011, 11:58 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/818...h/page__st__25
Read the entire thread and pay special attention to Billman250's posts.
Read the entire thread and pay special attention to Billman250's posts.
03-30-2011, 04:57 AM
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One more thing. If u can not get the "air to flow hot" after following the steps, please let me know.
On my car, I had to add one more step to completely "bleed the air" and get the "air to flow hot".
U probably do not need the extra step.
On my car, I had to add one more step to completely "bleed the air" and get the "air to flow hot".
U probably do not need the extra step.
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03-30-2011, 08:25 AM
#8
yeah if you don't get hot air out of your heater air vents during the bleed procedure, do not drive the car as you will have trapped air in the system and it can overheat while you are on the road driving. Make sure the air is nice and hot and you should know at that point that things are probably burped properly.
03-31-2011, 08:20 AM
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here is a very good DIY post from S2KCA.
http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=12152
also, if you have trouble getting the air out of the coolant system just run through a few heat cycles with the heater on full blast and fill the reservoir as needed after each cool down. it will probably take an hour or two for each heat cycle so unless you daily drive your car you can do this over a few days.
http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=12152
also, if you have trouble getting the air out of the coolant system just run through a few heat cycles with the heater on full blast and fill the reservoir as needed after each cool down. it will probably take an hour or two for each heat cycle so unless you daily drive your car you can do this over a few days.