Does anyone have a DIY for injectors?
05-17-2011, 03:58 PM
#1
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Does anyone have a DIY for injectors?
I read text instructions a week back, forgot to bookmark it and i can't find it anymore.
I need to do an injector swap to diagnose a cyl 1 misfire.
Anyone have a link to a walkthrough / instructions?
Thanks in advance!
Matt
Edit:
Also rc engineering charges ~25 for cleaning an injector. A new one is ~95 online. On avg what can i expect for the service life for a reconditioned injector? I think i'd rather just buy a new one if it has a possibility to become fouled again.
I need to do an injector swap to diagnose a cyl 1 misfire.
Anyone have a link to a walkthrough / instructions?
Thanks in advance!
Matt
Edit:
Also rc engineering charges ~25 for cleaning an injector. A new one is ~95 online. On avg what can i expect for the service life for a reconditioned injector? I think i'd rather just buy a new one if it has a possibility to become fouled again.
05-17-2011, 04:39 PM
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I checked the faqs and did numerous searches (on here & other s2k sites)... no walkthrough found.
CEL's not blinking yet. Getting a random p0301 CEL though.
Not to start another misfire thread, but been through the basics (new plugs, swapped coil packs, compression fine, valves in spec, cleaned TB and intake filter).
My symptoms are similar to others who have had misfires that were caused by injectors (misfire occurs at low rev, usually out of gear). Under load has been fine.
I'm sure the process isn't hard, but i'd like to leak as little fuel as possible.
CEL's not blinking yet. Getting a random p0301 CEL though.
Not to start another misfire thread, but been through the basics (new plugs, swapped coil packs, compression fine, valves in spec, cleaned TB and intake filter).
My symptoms are similar to others who have had misfires that were caused by injectors (misfire occurs at low rev, usually out of gear). Under load has been fine.
I'm sure the process isn't hard, but i'd like to leak as little fuel as possible.
05-17-2011, 06:20 PM
#4
I could do a post that walks you through it sometime tomorrow when I get a few mins, no pictures but all of the important info will be in it. If your injectors are under 100k miles a good cleaning is all you need, I'd have RC perform their majic on them. If your injectors are high mileage then a new set might be a good choice. I had mine professionally cleaned and they run great, they found one injector that was sticking but it cleaned up fine.
05-18-2011, 05:53 AM
#6
Here it is. This is the way I've done it, not necessarily the way Honda says to do it, but you have choices either way.
Remove fuel rail cover - black plastic cover with 2 nuts holding it down. Might want to disconnect the battery to reduce a chance of spark, even though it is a very low chance of that happening. Have lots of old towels, rags, plastic sandwich and garbage bags , elastics/zip ties available.
Relieve fuel pressure, I'll throw in my own opinion here, but everyone can do this part as they wish. Honda wants you to loosen the fuel pulsation damper (UFO looking plastic covered metal part )located on the center of the fuel rail. I prefer to do it a different way. When you open the fuel pulsation damper you need to replace two tiny washers underneath it, which no Honda dealer carries in stock (special order items from Japan), if you try to re-use the old ones they will leak. You also need to torque the damper back in place to 16 ft lbs and you need a larger sized wrench to do that - I think it's 22mm if I recall or some odd size. It is a PIA to reinstall the pulsation dampener at the correct torque and to get the replacement washers IMO. If the car sits overnight it won't have much fuel pressure the next day, so let the car sit if you can and the pressure will drop on its own. If you are doing this job after a recent drive then it will have higher fuel pressure and you really need to release that pressure. You could relieve fuel pressure by running the engine and pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the engine die, that will work. I prefer to let it sit overnight or possibly longer. You could also remove the fuel pressure regulator instead of the pulsation dampener, I find the fuel pressure regulator easier to remove and reinstall as compared to the pulsation dampener. Do this on a cold engine, so let it sit overnight and it will work fine and you don't need to worry about exess fuel pressure. Fuel will leak out regardless of how you do it so be prepared to soak up excess fuel that leaks using towels , rags, plastic bags etc.. .
Disconnect the 4 injector clips and vacuum line that runs to the fuel pressure regulator. Honda says to remove the fuel return hose from the bottom of the fuel regulator, but I just leave it connected, and I remove the regulator from the fuel rail. I wrap it in a sandwich bag with a tight elastic or zip tie to reduce fumes/smell , place rags around it to catch some excess fuel that will leak out. Have a few towels and rags available to catch some fuel that will leak out. Double wrap the regulator in plastic sandwich bags with elastics or zip ties to keep the fumes low, and do this in a ventilated area. I do it in my garage with the doors open.
Move the electrical harness out of the way as best as you can once you remove the injector clips, remove all nuts and bolts on the fuel rail. I believe there are 3 nuts and 4 bolts to remove, get the pcv valve hose out of the way. Once all bolts and nuts are removed lift up on the fuel rail, and pull it straight out along the plane that the injectors are angled, it will take a bit of effort, just do it smoothly and evenly. Once you get it up with all 4 injectors out of their ports lay a large towel underneath it. As I leave the pulsation dampener on the fuel rail I don't pull the fuel rail away from the engine, so I just leave the fuel rail loose on top of the manifold with some towels around it. If you remove the fuel pressure regulator there is a small rubber o-ring under it, and there is a brown plastic filter that sits in the fuel rail under the regulator , keep track of those so you don't loose them as they need to go back in place under the fuel pressure regulator on installation. If you choose to remove the fuel pulsation dampener and the hose under the fuel regulator (the way Honda wants you to) then you can pull the fuel rail away from the engine and work on it wherever you please. With my method I leave it resting on the manifold and I do all my work in the engine bay. It's your choice how you want to do this and how many parts you want to remove.
Pull off the 4 injectors one by one out of the fuel real, some fuel will leak out of the fuel rail holes as each injector is pulled out so expect to catch the fuel with some rags and towels. It may seem like a lot of fuel at first but there really isn't very much in there after the first injector is pulled. Because I keep the fuel rail in place on the manifold I wrap it in a couple garbage bags and zip tie them air tight if I'm sending the injectors out for cleaning. If you are just reinstalling new injectors at the same time you don't need to do this with the garbage bags. I do this to eliminate the fumes of the fuel when the car sits in my garage for a few days while the old injectors are sent out for cleaning. The smell of fuel disappears this way as I have the regulator and fuel rail sealed in plastic bags. I remove all fuel soaked rags from the garage and I dilute the engine bay with some all purpose cleaner wherever fuel may have dripped.
You will need four new o-rings for the tops of the injectors on the part that inserts into the fuel rail, swap in new o-rings. Honda suggests getting 4 new cushion rings, if your car isn't too old you might be able to re-use the old cushion rings if they are in good shape, it's up to you. Honda suggests using 4 new seal rings , they sit in the ports of the manifold. I went with 4 new o-rings on the injectors, and 4 new seal rings in the manifold ports. My cushion rings looked good so I just cleaned them, and conditioned them with a bit of shen itsu grease and I re-used them as they were still soft and pliable, but you could get 4 new cushion rings if you wanted to. Order all these parts in advance of doing this job from your Honda dealer, if you choose to remove the fuel pulsation dampener then you need to order the two new washers that are located under the pulsation dampener too, order these well in advance as they can be hard to get at some dealers. The washers are two differnet pieces and shaped differently, one located above the fuel hose and one under the hose.
Coat the new injector o-rings lightly with oil and insert the injectors into the fuel rail one by one. Coat the new seal rings with oil and press them into the manifold ports, make sure the ports are clean before you put the new seal rings in there. Push the fuel rail and injectors into the manifold, go slowly and smoothly so the injectors go straight in, use steady pressure with a light tapping action, if the seal rings have oil on them the injectors should slide in easily.
Reinstall all the nuts, bolts, pcv, fuel hoses, and vacuum hoses in reverse, and the injector harness and clips.
Torque values - all 3 nuts and 4 bolts on the fuel rail are 8.7 ft lbs. If you remove the fuel pressure regulator (optional) the two bolts for it are torqued to 7.2 ft lbs. Keep track of which bolts go where on removal as some are different lengths and you don't want to mix them up. Sandwich bags come in handy to store the different parts and use a black marker to identify the parts bags. If you choose to remove the fuel pulsation dampener it is torqued to 16 ft lbs. If you removed the fuel pressure regulator apply engine oil to the o-ring that sits below it upon reinstallation. Having a 3/8 inch torque wrench is very important so you torque each part to proper spec. and don't over-tighten them.
Re-connect the battery, remove all rags, plastic bags etc...., I spray down the engine bay with a mild all purpose cleaner to dilute any fuel that may have spilled.
Leave the fuel rail cover off for the time being - black plastic cover.
Turn the ignition on and off about 3 times to prime the fuel system without starting the engine. After the priming sequence start the engine and inspect all parts for leaks. Mainly the fuel rail at the injector areas, the fuel pulsation dampener, fuel regulator and all hoses.
Once you are sure there aren't any leaks then reinstall the fuel rail plastic cover with the two nuts, and you should be done.
Remove fuel rail cover - black plastic cover with 2 nuts holding it down. Might want to disconnect the battery to reduce a chance of spark, even though it is a very low chance of that happening. Have lots of old towels, rags, plastic sandwich and garbage bags , elastics/zip ties available.
Relieve fuel pressure, I'll throw in my own opinion here, but everyone can do this part as they wish. Honda wants you to loosen the fuel pulsation damper (UFO looking plastic covered metal part )located on the center of the fuel rail. I prefer to do it a different way. When you open the fuel pulsation damper you need to replace two tiny washers underneath it, which no Honda dealer carries in stock (special order items from Japan), if you try to re-use the old ones they will leak. You also need to torque the damper back in place to 16 ft lbs and you need a larger sized wrench to do that - I think it's 22mm if I recall or some odd size. It is a PIA to reinstall the pulsation dampener at the correct torque and to get the replacement washers IMO. If the car sits overnight it won't have much fuel pressure the next day, so let the car sit if you can and the pressure will drop on its own. If you are doing this job after a recent drive then it will have higher fuel pressure and you really need to release that pressure. You could relieve fuel pressure by running the engine and pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the engine die, that will work. I prefer to let it sit overnight or possibly longer. You could also remove the fuel pressure regulator instead of the pulsation dampener, I find the fuel pressure regulator easier to remove and reinstall as compared to the pulsation dampener. Do this on a cold engine, so let it sit overnight and it will work fine and you don't need to worry about exess fuel pressure. Fuel will leak out regardless of how you do it so be prepared to soak up excess fuel that leaks using towels , rags, plastic bags etc.. .
Disconnect the 4 injector clips and vacuum line that runs to the fuel pressure regulator. Honda says to remove the fuel return hose from the bottom of the fuel regulator, but I just leave it connected, and I remove the regulator from the fuel rail. I wrap it in a sandwich bag with a tight elastic or zip tie to reduce fumes/smell , place rags around it to catch some excess fuel that will leak out. Have a few towels and rags available to catch some fuel that will leak out. Double wrap the regulator in plastic sandwich bags with elastics or zip ties to keep the fumes low, and do this in a ventilated area. I do it in my garage with the doors open.
Move the electrical harness out of the way as best as you can once you remove the injector clips, remove all nuts and bolts on the fuel rail. I believe there are 3 nuts and 4 bolts to remove, get the pcv valve hose out of the way. Once all bolts and nuts are removed lift up on the fuel rail, and pull it straight out along the plane that the injectors are angled, it will take a bit of effort, just do it smoothly and evenly. Once you get it up with all 4 injectors out of their ports lay a large towel underneath it. As I leave the pulsation dampener on the fuel rail I don't pull the fuel rail away from the engine, so I just leave the fuel rail loose on top of the manifold with some towels around it. If you remove the fuel pressure regulator there is a small rubber o-ring under it, and there is a brown plastic filter that sits in the fuel rail under the regulator , keep track of those so you don't loose them as they need to go back in place under the fuel pressure regulator on installation. If you choose to remove the fuel pulsation dampener and the hose under the fuel regulator (the way Honda wants you to) then you can pull the fuel rail away from the engine and work on it wherever you please. With my method I leave it resting on the manifold and I do all my work in the engine bay. It's your choice how you want to do this and how many parts you want to remove.
Pull off the 4 injectors one by one out of the fuel real, some fuel will leak out of the fuel rail holes as each injector is pulled out so expect to catch the fuel with some rags and towels. It may seem like a lot of fuel at first but there really isn't very much in there after the first injector is pulled. Because I keep the fuel rail in place on the manifold I wrap it in a couple garbage bags and zip tie them air tight if I'm sending the injectors out for cleaning. If you are just reinstalling new injectors at the same time you don't need to do this with the garbage bags. I do this to eliminate the fumes of the fuel when the car sits in my garage for a few days while the old injectors are sent out for cleaning. The smell of fuel disappears this way as I have the regulator and fuel rail sealed in plastic bags. I remove all fuel soaked rags from the garage and I dilute the engine bay with some all purpose cleaner wherever fuel may have dripped.
You will need four new o-rings for the tops of the injectors on the part that inserts into the fuel rail, swap in new o-rings. Honda suggests getting 4 new cushion rings, if your car isn't too old you might be able to re-use the old cushion rings if they are in good shape, it's up to you. Honda suggests using 4 new seal rings , they sit in the ports of the manifold. I went with 4 new o-rings on the injectors, and 4 new seal rings in the manifold ports. My cushion rings looked good so I just cleaned them, and conditioned them with a bit of shen itsu grease and I re-used them as they were still soft and pliable, but you could get 4 new cushion rings if you wanted to. Order all these parts in advance of doing this job from your Honda dealer, if you choose to remove the fuel pulsation dampener then you need to order the two new washers that are located under the pulsation dampener too, order these well in advance as they can be hard to get at some dealers. The washers are two differnet pieces and shaped differently, one located above the fuel hose and one under the hose.
Coat the new injector o-rings lightly with oil and insert the injectors into the fuel rail one by one. Coat the new seal rings with oil and press them into the manifold ports, make sure the ports are clean before you put the new seal rings in there. Push the fuel rail and injectors into the manifold, go slowly and smoothly so the injectors go straight in, use steady pressure with a light tapping action, if the seal rings have oil on them the injectors should slide in easily.
Reinstall all the nuts, bolts, pcv, fuel hoses, and vacuum hoses in reverse, and the injector harness and clips.
Torque values - all 3 nuts and 4 bolts on the fuel rail are 8.7 ft lbs. If you remove the fuel pressure regulator (optional) the two bolts for it are torqued to 7.2 ft lbs. Keep track of which bolts go where on removal as some are different lengths and you don't want to mix them up. Sandwich bags come in handy to store the different parts and use a black marker to identify the parts bags. If you choose to remove the fuel pulsation dampener it is torqued to 16 ft lbs. If you removed the fuel pressure regulator apply engine oil to the o-ring that sits below it upon reinstallation. Having a 3/8 inch torque wrench is very important so you torque each part to proper spec. and don't over-tighten them.
Re-connect the battery, remove all rags, plastic bags etc...., I spray down the engine bay with a mild all purpose cleaner to dilute any fuel that may have spilled.
Leave the fuel rail cover off for the time being - black plastic cover.
Turn the ignition on and off about 3 times to prime the fuel system without starting the engine. After the priming sequence start the engine and inspect all parts for leaks. Mainly the fuel rail at the injector areas, the fuel pulsation dampener, fuel regulator and all hoses.
Once you are sure there aren't any leaks then reinstall the fuel rail plastic cover with the two nuts, and you should be done.
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04-13-2023, 08:56 AM
#8
I’m about to finally remove my injectors to send out to clean. Let me get the fuel pressure release portion clear. There are a few options:
1. Official Honda method: Remove fuel pulsation damper
2. Remove fuel pressure regulator
3. Remove fuel pump fuse + crank engine
4. Let it sit over night or longer
Is this correct?
1. Official Honda method: Remove fuel pulsation damper
2. Remove fuel pressure regulator
3. Remove fuel pump fuse + crank engine
4. Let it sit over night or longer
Is this correct?
04-13-2023, 02:16 PM
#9
I’m about to finally remove my injectors to send out to clean. Let me get the fuel pressure release portion clear. There are a few options:
1. Official Honda method: Remove fuel pulsation damper
2. Remove fuel pressure regulator
3. Remove fuel pump fuse + crank engine
4. Let it sit over night or longer
Is this correct?
1. Official Honda method: Remove fuel pulsation damper
2. Remove fuel pressure regulator
3. Remove fuel pump fuse + crank engine
4. Let it sit over night or longer
Is this correct?
also, don't remove the fuel pressure regulator, just undo the vacuum hose and leave fuel pressure regulator attached to the fuel rail. removing it disturbs the o-ring. im not sure about the fuel pump procedure or letting it sit overnight, i've never done it but i do everything wrong.
Last edited by dagle; 04-13-2023 at 02:18 PM.
04-13-2023, 08:44 PM
#10
Registered User
I’m about to finally remove my injectors to send out to clean. Let me get the fuel pressure release portion clear. There are a few options:
1. Official Honda method: Remove fuel pulsation damper
2. Remove fuel pressure regulator
3. Remove fuel pump fuse + crank engine
4. Let it sit over night or longer
Is this correct?
1. Official Honda method: Remove fuel pulsation damper
2. Remove fuel pressure regulator
3. Remove fuel pump fuse + crank engine
4. Let it sit over night or longer
Is this correct?
Once you remove the rail, expect some fuel leakage and for the odd o-ring to not stay with its companion injector/remain in the injector port. Expect to even destroy an o-ring or two and have replacements ready! 2000-2005: 91301-PM7-003 / 2006-2009: 91301-PLC-000
It's not worth the small cost to put everything back together and find you have an injector pissing fuel onto the IM.