Do some synthetics burn more than others?
#1
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Do some synthetics burn more than others?
I used the search function and read about 20 threads, but didn't see any specific information on synthetic oil comparisons in regards to how much different brands burn.
I bought my 03 w/ 22,000 miles and switched to Mobil 1 Syntetic the day I bought it. 2,000 miles later I've had to add about 2/3 of a quart. Does Castrol Full Synthetic burn any slower?
Any input about synthetics and "burn rate" would be much appreciated?
Thanks
I bought my 03 w/ 22,000 miles and switched to Mobil 1 Syntetic the day I bought it. 2,000 miles later I've had to add about 2/3 of a quart. Does Castrol Full Synthetic burn any slower?
Any input about synthetics and "burn rate" would be much appreciated?
Thanks
#3
hmmm dunno what to tell you - I'm running Schaeffers 5-40W full synthetic and i seem to be pretty average. 1QT every 3k or so. maybe a little less. I drive pretty mild though
Nate
Nate
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There are a couple of ways to "burn" oil IMO.
So far I can think of 4.
1 - A small leak.
2 - The way the F20 / F22 crankcase ventilation is designed.
3 - The piston rings leave a little to much behind on the cylinder walls.
4 - The oil looses its "lighter fractions" when hot.
To fix #1..
In older engines a syn oil may leak more, old seals, lots of build up sludge that is removed by syn oils, ect.
Not in "our" case IMO.
To "fix" #2 : stop the air flow through the engine at low intake pressures (while downshifting, etc).
That air flow may take oil vapour with it. Certain syn oils may have more lighter fractions. (look at fix #4)
Krank Vents help by creating a vacuum in the crank case and they stop the air flow through the crank case.
Krank Vents do allow blow-by out of the crank case so don't just plug inlets / outlets.
The vacuum in the crank case also helps to "fix" #3, it makes the piston rings seal a bit better.
To fix #3 : It could be that the piston rings are not broken in properly.
No fix I can think of.
To fix #4: Look for syn oils with a low NOACK Volatility number.
Those oils will loose less lighter fractions when hot and you'll have to add less in between changes.
I'm using a full syn 0W-30 (and have fix #2) and oil usage has dropped to 1 liter every 4500 km.
For a 130.000 km. old F20C2 that's not so bad IMO.
So far I can think of 4.
1 - A small leak.
2 - The way the F20 / F22 crankcase ventilation is designed.
3 - The piston rings leave a little to much behind on the cylinder walls.
4 - The oil looses its "lighter fractions" when hot.
To fix #1..
In older engines a syn oil may leak more, old seals, lots of build up sludge that is removed by syn oils, ect.
Not in "our" case IMO.
To "fix" #2 : stop the air flow through the engine at low intake pressures (while downshifting, etc).
That air flow may take oil vapour with it. Certain syn oils may have more lighter fractions. (look at fix #4)
Krank Vents help by creating a vacuum in the crank case and they stop the air flow through the crank case.
Krank Vents do allow blow-by out of the crank case so don't just plug inlets / outlets.
The vacuum in the crank case also helps to "fix" #3, it makes the piston rings seal a bit better.
To fix #3 : It could be that the piston rings are not broken in properly.
No fix I can think of.
To fix #4: Look for syn oils with a low NOACK Volatility number.
Those oils will loose less lighter fractions when hot and you'll have to add less in between changes.
I'm using a full syn 0W-30 (and have fix #2) and oil usage has dropped to 1 liter every 4500 km.
For a 130.000 km. old F20C2 that's not so bad IMO.
#7
This is an all too common problem with the S2000: high consumption rates with Mobil 1.
Standard Mobil 1 burns more readily for a number of reasons - the main one being it's rather volatile.
Spitfire S is right on the money here.
The standard measure in the motor oil industry for determining an oil's stability is called the NOACK volatility rating, and standard Mobil 1 has a rather poor rating for a synthetic. The only real advantage Mobil 1 provides over a standard mineral based oil is it stays relatively fluid down to about -50F, where most dino oils are gel. There are much better synthetic oils out there.
The best NOACK volatility ratings I've seen are with Amsoil synthetic motor oils. Few oils come close - and standard Mobil 1 isn't one of them. In fact, standard Mobil 1 has a NOACK volatility rating that is worse than several standard mineral ('dino') oils on the market.
Most of the high consumption problems with Mobil 1 can be controlled with Krank Vents - however, the best option is to try another synthetic (2 oil changes to get the rest of the residual M1 out of there) and see if your consumption improves, before modifying your car.
I highly recommend Amsoil. My consumption rate over 35,000 miles has been rock steady at less than 0.25 qt per 3,000 miles (and I drive my car hard). Amsoil provides better wear protection; shear stability, and lower volatility than any other oil that I know of. Another good synthetic oil is Redline. Redline is a little pricey though.
Mobil 1 EP is another alternative (that you can buy at your local store - it's much more stable than standard M1). However, Mobil 1 EP is more expensive than both standard M1 and Amsoil. You can order Amsoil directly from their site, and it shows up on your doorstep in around 5 days. www.amsoil.com
You won't be sorry if you try it.
Standard Mobil 1 burns more readily for a number of reasons - the main one being it's rather volatile.
To fix #4: Look for syn oils with a low NOACK Volatility number.
The standard measure in the motor oil industry for determining an oil's stability is called the NOACK volatility rating, and standard Mobil 1 has a rather poor rating for a synthetic. The only real advantage Mobil 1 provides over a standard mineral based oil is it stays relatively fluid down to about -50F, where most dino oils are gel. There are much better synthetic oils out there.
The best NOACK volatility ratings I've seen are with Amsoil synthetic motor oils. Few oils come close - and standard Mobil 1 isn't one of them. In fact, standard Mobil 1 has a NOACK volatility rating that is worse than several standard mineral ('dino') oils on the market.
Most of the high consumption problems with Mobil 1 can be controlled with Krank Vents - however, the best option is to try another synthetic (2 oil changes to get the rest of the residual M1 out of there) and see if your consumption improves, before modifying your car.
I highly recommend Amsoil. My consumption rate over 35,000 miles has been rock steady at less than 0.25 qt per 3,000 miles (and I drive my car hard). Amsoil provides better wear protection; shear stability, and lower volatility than any other oil that I know of. Another good synthetic oil is Redline. Redline is a little pricey though.
Mobil 1 EP is another alternative (that you can buy at your local store - it's much more stable than standard M1). However, Mobil 1 EP is more expensive than both standard M1 and Amsoil. You can order Amsoil directly from their site, and it shows up on your doorstep in around 5 days. www.amsoil.com
You won't be sorry if you try it.
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#8
I'm not burning any with Amsoil ATM, however, my car only has 12k or so on it so that's not saying much.
Mobil 1 burns a LOT in most DOHC VTEC cars in my experience.
Mobil 1 burns a LOT in most DOHC VTEC cars in my experience.
#10
Originally Posted by Dave-ROR,Apr 15 2007, 03:11 PM
I'm not burning any with Amsoil ATM, however, my car only has 12k or so on it so that's not saying much.
Mobil 1 burns a LOT in most DOHC VTEC cars in my experience.
Mobil 1 burns a LOT in most DOHC VTEC cars in my experience.
My S2000 burns the least with Amsoil 5W30. Amsoil 10W30 is not measurably higher.
Perhaps dropping the initial break-in consumption rate would more accurately represent my S2000's consumption rate. However it doesn't adjust my rate down enough to consider.