Do rear brake rotors need to match?
01-06-2010, 12:30 PM
#1
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Do rear brake rotors need to match?
I know the simple answer is yes, make sure they are the same; however, does it really matter?
I cracked my right rear brake rotor and replaced it with a new one, but left the pads since they had 70% of the material left. The rotor on the right is used and the rotor on the left is new. I know it will take some time for the new rotor and pad to break in. Long term, is there any issue if I leave a mismatched rotor set on the rear of the car?
They are just hunks of metal, right? I'm planning on leaving the set mismatched unless someone has a great reason why I need to change them both to new ones...
Thx for any help with this potentially stupid question
Cheers,
Dale
I cracked my right rear brake rotor and replaced it with a new one, but left the pads since they had 70% of the material left. The rotor on the right is used and the rotor on the left is new. I know it will take some time for the new rotor and pad to break in. Long term, is there any issue if I leave a mismatched rotor set on the rear of the car?
They are just hunks of metal, right? I'm planning on leaving the set mismatched unless someone has a great reason why I need to change them both to new ones...
Thx for any help with this potentially stupid question
Cheers,
Dale
01-06-2010, 12:46 PM
#2
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Are the rotors at least the same brand?
01-06-2010, 03:47 PM
#4
But think of it this way: What are you going to do when the left rear rotor wears out and the right rear still has ~50% left?
Are you going to just replace rotors one at a time for the rest of the car's life?
At some time, you'll have to sacrifice some rotor life on one of the rotors if you want to get "back in sync."
Are you going to just replace rotors one at a time for the rest of the car's life?
At some time, you'll have to sacrifice some rotor life on one of the rotors if you want to get "back in sync."
01-07-2010, 06:50 AM
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Lets put it this way:
As long as the thinnest rear rotor is still within specs you will not notice any difference with the other rear rotor during driving on public roads.
(This statement does not include pads!)
Specs are:
Max runout 0.10mm.
Max parallelism: 0.015mm.
Min thickness: 10.0mm.
That covers it all I suppose
As long as the thinnest rear rotor is still within specs you will not notice any difference with the other rear rotor during driving on public roads.
(This statement does not include pads!)
Specs are:
Max runout 0.10mm.
Max parallelism: 0.015mm.
Min thickness: 10.0mm.
That covers it all I suppose
01-07-2010, 11:32 AM
#7
If your rotor had high temperature cracking from tracking your car, the other side likely has tiny cracks too, as it would have seen the same temperatures. Also, while the pad beds to the new rotor, it will have slightly less braking effect then the good side (which is already bedded to it's rotor). This could make your rear end a bit wiggly under sudden braking. For these 2 reasons, I'd replace both sides and keep the good one as an emergency back-up for future track days. It's only another $60 and 15 minutes of work.
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