S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Do myself compression test?

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Old 11-16-2011, 09:27 PM
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Default Do myself compression test?

Should I do a compression test myself? I've never done one and fiddling with the engine i'm kinda hesitant to. Its not that i'm not good with tools, its just i've never had the liberty to take apart any parts of an engine to understand how everything works.
Old 11-16-2011, 10:25 PM
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It's fairly easy. All it involves is taking out the ignition coils and the spark plugs. Just be sure to not cross-thread any of the spark plugs when you screw them back in though. Why do you think you need a compression test?
Old 11-17-2011, 08:45 AM
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I like to have someone crank it over while I read the gauge, but it's a two person job max. Make sure you unplug the fuel pump relay.
Old 11-17-2011, 08:46 AM
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A compression test is incredibly easy. Here's some pointers based on my experience. Make sure you pull the fuse for the EFI system so you're not washing the cylinders down with fuel. If you get a low reading, pour a cap full of oil in that cylinder and retest. If the reading goes up, it's likely your rings. If it stays low, it's likely the valves. A leak down test will tell you for sure. Keep notes of everything, don't rely on memory.

Originally Posted by OVER 9000!
It's fairly easy. All it involves is taking out the ignition coils and the spark plugs. Just be sure to not cross-thread any of the spark plugs when you screw them back in though. Why do you think you need a compression test?

Always start bolts, including spark plugs, by hand. I actually like to spin them backwards which helps them find the threads, then screw them in. I've never cross-threaded anything in my 10 yrs working on cars, and that includes pretty much anything you can do to a car besides painting and building a bottom end, although I've done head swaps.
Old 11-17-2011, 11:45 AM
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Also remember to keep the throttle 100% open that way air can actually get into the engine

Try to have the same number of cranks on each cylinder.
Old 11-17-2011, 01:25 PM
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My understanding of how to do this:

Drive the car for 5 minutes to warm up engine.
Turn off car and remove the engine cover to where the spark plugs are.
Remove all 4 of them and check for any oil leaks/dryness.
Screw in by hand the compression adaptor and plug in gauge.
Remove the fuel feed fuse.
With the gauge reset to 0, keep pedal fully pressed down and hold starter button for 5-7 counts.
Read gauge and record.
Remove the adaptor and squirt some motor oil in the value and test again (wet test).
repeat for remaining 3 valves.
Replace spark plugs if necessary.
Check for consistancy across all valves.


I'm the 3rd owner so I want to know as much about this car now so I can read future problems easier.
Old 11-17-2011, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by acn684
My understanding of how to do this:

Drive the car for 5 minutes to warm up engine.
Turn off car and remove the engine cover to where the spark plugs are.
Remove all 4 of them and check for any oil leaks/dryness.
Screw in by hand the compression adaptor and plug in gauge.
Remove the fuel feed fuse.
With the gauge reset to 0, keep pedal fully pressed down and hold starter button for 5-7 counts.
Read gauge and record.
Remove the adaptor and squirt some motor oil in the value and test again (wet test).
repeat for remaining 3 valves.
Replace spark plugs if necessary.
Check for consistancy across all valves.


I'm the 3rd owner so I want to know as much about this car now so I can read future problems easier.
That is pretty much how I do a compression test with the exception of one step. I do not start with a "wet" compression check as this can mask issues with rings sealing properly. I would start with a dry compression check and if one cylinder reads much lower than the others, you can add some oil to see if the compression goes up. A healthy motor should get at least 200psi per cylinder and the readings should all be very close to one another.

As a side note, you are misusing the word "valves" where the word "cylinders" should be used. I don't mean this as an insult, just trying to be helpful to avoid confusion
Old 11-17-2011, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by NFRAP2
That is pretty much how I do a compression test with the exception of one step. I do not start with a "wet" compression check as this can mask issues with rings sealing properly. I would start with a dry compression check and if one cylinder reads much lower than the others, you can add some oil to see if the compression goes up. A healthy motor should get at least 200psi per cylinder and the readings should all be very close to one another.

As a side note, you are misusing the word "valves" where the word "cylinders" should be used. I don't mean this as an insult, just trying to be helpful to avoid confusion
yep! ur all good OP; it is very easy and quick
Old 11-17-2011, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by NFRAP2
Originally Posted by acn684' timestamp='1321568721' post='21165455
My understanding of how to do this:

Drive the car for 5 minutes to warm up engine.
Turn off car and remove the engine cover to where the spark plugs are.
Remove all 4 of them and check for any oil leaks/dryness.
Screw in by hand the compression adaptor and plug in gauge.
Remove the fuel feed fuse.
With the gauge reset to 0, keep pedal fully pressed down and hold starter button for 5-7 counts.
Read gauge and record.
Remove the adaptor and squirt some motor oil in the value and test again (wet test).
repeat for remaining 3 valves.
Replace spark plugs if necessary.
Check for consistancy across all valves.


I'm the 3rd owner so I want to know as much about this car now so I can read future problems easier.
That is pretty much how I do a compression test with the exception of one step. I do not start with a "wet" compression check as this can mask issues with rings sealing properly. I would start with a dry compression check and if one cylinder reads much lower than the others, you can add some oil to see if the compression goes up. A healthy motor should get at least 200psi per cylinder and the readings should all be very close to one another.

As a side note, you are misusing the word "valves" where the word "cylinders" should be used. I don't mean this as an insult, just trying to be helpful to avoid confusion

Also, driving for a preset amount of time shouldn't be done. The car needs to be at operating temperature, and in cold weather that may take longer than 5 minutes.
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