LooseShutter

Great write-up and the links with images really helped. The hardest thing, strangely, was twisting and pulling out the clip that secures the CMC arm to the pedal. I think the pliers I have were too big (I actually used a leatherman) so I advise some thin nose pliers. Really glad for these DIY's!

S2K Type R

I just did this DIY.

I think it should be a 10mm open-end wrench but otherwise good write-up.

Another useful tool is a U-joint socket attachment to get at those 12mm bolts at an angle.

toecheese

Good writeup. A couple of notes on my experience:

On my 2002, the clutch line nut was a 10mm, not an 8mm as the writer says his was.

When removing the left nut under the footwell, I stuffed a rag between the wall of the car and the plastic liner to prevent the nut from falling between when I removed it.

Important note: brake fluid dissolves paint! So be sure to immediately wipe off any drops that land on your fender, and be careful whet you touch if you get any fluid on your hands.

rip_ej1

Good day mates!

I'll be replacing my clutch master cylinder and clutch slave (AP2 to AP1) cylinder this weekend. I read that bench bleeding them prior to installation will help or expedite with the bleed process. My question is, after I install both the cmc/csc do I bleed from the master cylinder or from the slave cylinder? Or both? Or maybe not needed if I've already bench bleeded?

Thanks in advance.

Soviet

You can only bleed from the slave?

Slowcrash_101

Or you can also use a fender cover, I use rags inside a garbage bag laid out flat, the rags prevent scratches to the paint, and the bag keeps liquids and dirt off the fenders. Or you can get actual fender covers.

Soviet

I just made a DIY POV video for this. Hopefully it helps some of you reading this thread

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-m0alr2am4[/media]

waino

For anyone reading through this thread and thinking bench bleeding is a good idea, I would like to share my experience.

I bench bled the new master cylinder by filling the reservoir with brake fluid and working the pushrod. Then I reinstalled the plastic plug in the fitting for the hard line. I noticed that whenever the fitting was not plugged, brake fluid poured out.

I installed the master cylinder in the car, with the requisite newspaper underneath to protect the paint. In the process, the cylinder wanted to trap the hard line against the firewall, so I had to move the line. There wasn't enough room to see what I was doing with my hand in the way, so I had to do it by feel. Well the hard line managed to hook the plastic plug and pop it out, and all the brake fluid drained out of the reservoir before I could get the line in place and its nut snugged down! I mopped up the spilled fluid, finished the install and bleed process, got the car off the jackstands and out of the garage, and hosed out the affected area of the engine bay. I hope I don't lose a lot of paint in there

Unless you're a pro and very quick at connecting up the hard line, I recommend you install the master cylinder dry and deal with bleeding it later!

Wayne

HarryD

Sorry to bump this -- in your video you say 8mm in the beginning, and 10mm towards the end -- I just want to confirm, the only flare wrench size I'll need here will be a 10mm right?

Soviet

Hey, I'm currently out of the country and haven't been able to get decent wifi. I'm pretty sure its a 10mm, the clutch fluid bleeder is an 8mm which may have confused me at the time. I will likely film a better version of this video now that I'm shooting 4k and have a proper mic.