The DIY Oil Change
08-13-2008, 09:08 PM
#51
i checked, it wasnt there.
i loosened it by hand and didnt see one....
am i supposed to use the 17mm one that comes with the transmission pack that htg sells?
i got three in that pack... it seemed really thick though.
i loosened it by hand and didnt see one....
am i supposed to use the 17mm one that comes with the transmission pack that htg sells?
i got three in that pack... it seemed really thick though.
08-13-2008, 11:47 PM
#52
Registered User
Originally Posted by gkb,Jan 21 2008, 08:15 AM
Bat711:
Do you take the car back to the dealer to reset your maintenance minder?
Do you take the car back to the dealer to reset your maintenance minder?
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larry resnick (04-26-2020)
08-13-2008, 11:54 PM
#53
Registered User
Originally Posted by bat711,Mar 11 2008, 12:36 PM
I agree with you in principle that your dealer or lube place can do it quicker and cheaper. You can get it done for $20-30 with conventional oil at most places which is how much I spent just for the synth. oil.
Unfortunately this doesn't mean they are doing it properly. After having my dealer not torque the drain bolt down and having the oil spill out in a parking lot and having it towed I decided to do it myself.
Unfortunately this doesn't mean they are doing it properly. After having my dealer not torque the drain bolt down and having the oil spill out in a parking lot and having it towed I decided to do it myself.
Slide pan under. Open drain. remove oil filler cap. remove filter. Replace filter. Close drain valve. Add oil (5.5 qts)
5 minutes start to finish. Oil goes to local shop.
08-14-2008, 12:00 AM
#54
Registered User
Originally Posted by DBXFX,Aug 13 2008, 05:53 PM
i just changed my oil with mobil 1. my drain bolt did not have a washer on it, nor did i put one on it as i didnt know where to get one.
is this ok as long as it doesn't leak??
great writeup btw
is this ok as long as it doesn't leak??
great writeup btw
08-14-2008, 12:14 AM
#55
Originally Posted by Doktor-Freud,Aug 14 2008, 04:00 AM
5 cent item at dealership. Honda specs an aluminum washer. Auto parts stores sell copper. Honda says they are only good for one use but many people reuse them repeatedly without a problem. For 5 cents I used to replace mine at each change. Now I just open the valve I replaced the drain plug with.
i already filled the oil up and dont want to waste 5.5 quarts of liquid gold, aka mobil 1.
08-14-2008, 11:12 PM
#56
Registered User
Originally Posted by DBXFX,Aug 14 2008, 12:14 AM
is it ok to go this change without it though?
i already filled the oil up and dont want to waste 5.5 quarts of liquid gold, aka mobil 1.
i already filled the oil up and dont want to waste 5.5 quarts of liquid gold, aka mobil 1.
Really, if the plug stays put there is no real issue.
08-15-2008, 10:44 PM
#58
Registered User
Originally Posted by DBXFX,Aug 14 2008, 11:56 PM
ok thanks 
for the next time. do i use this one?
this pack has an extra 17mm washer in it.
the transmission only uses 2 i believe...1 for the draon and 1 for the fill bolt???
for the next time. do i use this one?
this pack has an extra 17mm washer in it.
the transmission only uses 2 i believe...1 for the draon and 1 for the fill bolt???
08-21-2008, 06:48 AM
#59
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Originally Posted by pie,Jan 14 2008, 04:00 AM
You could buy one of these and make your life a LOT easier:
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-F...00311922&sr=8-1
Gets more out and takes 10 minutes max. I highly recommend this to anyone who values his or her time.
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-F...00311922&sr=8-1
Gets more out and takes 10 minutes max. I highly recommend this to anyone who values his or her time.
08-29-2008, 05:55 AM
#60
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Originally Posted by deathsled,Jan 29 2008, 06:04 PM
That's crazy talk!
My oil change consists of:
- 17mm socket and ratchet
- Channel locks (much better than a filter wrench
)
- Oil catch pan
- New filter
- "5.1" qts. of your preferred 10w-30 motor oil (or 5w-40 if you will be seeing regular -0F temps)
- 2 2x4s to roll the front wheels up on to.
The trick is to get yourself a CAI so that there is no need to go under the car
My oil change consists of:
- 17mm socket and ratchet
- Channel locks (much better than a filter wrench
)- Oil catch pan
- New filter
- "5.1" qts. of your preferred 10w-30 motor oil (or 5w-40 if you will be seeing regular -0F temps)
- 2 2x4s to roll the front wheels up on to.
The trick is to get yourself a CAI so that there is no need to go under the car