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The DIY Oil Change

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Old 09-21-2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RevHappy2.0
IMO if you're physically capable to change your own oil, but you pay someone else to do it, than you're wrong. I've worked at a dealership for awhile and the oil techs are so rushed to get them in and out that many mistakes are made. Filters have been left off completely, drain plugs left off, drain plug gaskets are not replaced, oil caps left off, oil drained and never filled back up!!!! The wrong viscosity is used, drain plugs are stripped out from over tightening....but the owner is NEVER told!! These are just a few things that I have witnessed and never just once if you can believe that.

So word of advice! Change your own oil!!! You'll be a better owner for it.
and on top of that, they will even overfill your tranny fluid. somehow, someway, the filled it up way past the bolt hole. Now I have blown seals and my tranny leaks.. .
Old 09-30-2012, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by BirdShot
...The filter directions state 7/8ths of a turn after the gasket makes contact so nearly one full revolution. This was the tightest I have ever gone for an oil filter and I could not get it all the way by hand and did indeed need to use a filter wrench. To bring my level to the full mark, I needed 5 and 1/3 quarts.
All - I have some questions after performing my oil change today:

1. oil filter. Based on the filter's numbering system (1 to 8), I started off with 6, which means I needed to turn until reaching 5 (7/8s); however, I could not go beyond 3.5 (FYI, I was using a filter wrench). I think I have reached the max tq and am concerned about forcing it more and over tightening. Maybe I started counting too late. Thoughts? I have not started the car yet. Once I do, I will make sure to check for leaks.

2. Oil level: My owner's manual states 5.1 qts. I stopped between 4.7 and 4.8 qts. The stick shows as follows: 1) the first 3 "X"s is covered with oil and touching the 4th. On the other side of the stick, all "X" s are covered with oil. Stops right before the "H" mark. I understand we should be using the the side of the stick with the lowest mark for measuring purposes. I have not turned on the engine. Thoughts on my next steps? Do I need more oil? I am letting the car sit for a while before doing another check.

Thanks -
Old 09-30-2012, 11:14 AM
  #133  

 
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The owners manual is wrong. You should add 5.5 qts every oil change to put you right at the top "x"
Old 09-30-2012, 04:21 PM
  #134  

 
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Tks. I ran the engine and the oil level went down. It must be because oil went into the oil filter. Then I poured another .2 qts (200ml) and now i am above the 2nd X with 5.2 qts. ( what the owners manual recommended) I will check my levels tomorrow and bring the level the top X (4th X)
Old 10-01-2012, 04:32 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by CenturionS2K
Originally Posted by BirdShot' timestamp='1321791485' post='21171674
...The filter directions state 7/8ths of a turn after the gasket makes contact so nearly one full revolution. This was the tightest I have ever gone for an oil filter and I could not get it all the way by hand and did indeed need to use a filter wrench. To bring my level to the full mark, I needed 5 and 1/3 quarts.
All - I have some questions after performing my oil change today:

1. oil filter. Based on the filter's numbering system (1 to 8), I started off with 6, which means I needed to turn until reaching 5 (7/8s); however, I could not go beyond 3.5 (FYI, I was using a filter wrench). I think I have reached the max tq and am concerned about forcing it more and over tightening. Maybe I started counting too late. Thoughts? I have not started the car yet. Once I do, I will make sure to check for leaks.

2. Oil level: My owner's manual states 5.1 qts. I stopped between 4.7 and 4.8 qts. The stick shows as follows: 1) the first 3 "X"s is covered with oil and touching the 4th. On the other side of the stick, all "X" s are covered with oil. Stops right before the "H" mark. I understand we should be using the the side of the stick with the lowest mark for measuring purposes. I have not turned on the engine. Thoughts on my next steps? Do I need more oil? I am letting the car sit for a while before doing another check.

Thanks -

1. As a general rule - "hand tight" is fine for the filter. You don't want it over tightened nor loose.

2. If you add oil and check the dipstick right away, it will be covered in oil that is draining into the pan. Give it some time. The owner's manual is correct, but your reading may have been off due to the draining.

Like jordanksartel stated though, with a new filter I usually have 5.5 qt in the engine when I am done.
Old 10-18-2012, 10:45 AM
  #136  

 
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What do you guys use the remove the drain bolt? I tried last week and again this morning to get the damn thing off and it wouldn't budge. I used all the strength I could and it did nothing. After about two hours of trying I dropped it at the Honda dealer since I couldn't get it or the transmission bolt off, luckily they said they would do it for labor cost since I had the fluids and they promised they wouldn't overtorque the bolts.
Old 10-18-2012, 11:47 AM
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For the oil and trans, I just use a 1/2" drive ratchet. If it's really tight, then a 1/2" drive breaker bar works for me.

The diff fill is a little trickier because of the limited space. I used a Crescent wrench last time. I'll buy a combination wrench for next time.
Old 10-18-2012, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by dwight
For the oil and trans, I just use a 1/2" drive ratchet. If it's really tight, then a 1/2" drive breaker bar works for me.

The diff fill is a little trickier because of the limited space. I used a Crescent wrench last time. I'll buy a combination wrench for next time.
That's what I was using and just couldn't get it to budge.
Old 10-18-2012, 07:38 PM
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That must be quite tight then. It should only be about 30 ft-lbs. If the breaker bar is short, 18", it's only 20 lbs to tighten it.

Let me start off by saying that I don't recommend this. Using an impact gun is much safer. You could easily mess up and break something because you don't get any feedback. If you're really in a pinch you could use the longest breaker bar you can get along with the shortest socket. Set the breaker bar on the right-hand side so the end is below the oil pan. Very carefully use the floor jack to loosen stuck fastener.
Old 10-19-2012, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by dwight
That must be quite tight then. It should only be about 30 ft-lbs. If the breaker bar is short, 18", it's only 20 lbs to tighten it.

Let me start off by saying that I don't recommend this. Using an impact gun is much safer. You could easily mess up and break something because you don't get any feedback. If you're really in a pinch you could use the longest breaker bar you can get along with the shortest socket. Set the breaker bar on the right-hand side so the end is below the oil pan. Very carefully use the floor jack to loosen stuck fastener.
I took it to the dealer and had them do it, whoever did the last change over tightened the bolt and they had to replace the bolt, no wonder I couldn't get it off. Should be good to go for the next change though.


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