DIY Oil Change
#1
DIY Oil Change
I like doing my own oil changes, if only to save money. Any issues particular to the S2k I should keep in mind? I read that I have to get a new oil pan gasket. Filter recommendations? Anything I should watch out for. I know this will strike some as lame, but I just want to be careful. Thank you.
#2
#3
Oil Pan Gasket??? Is it leaking? If not, don't worry about it. It's not the easiest thing to change out.
The oil change on the S2000 is the easiest compared to any of the other cars I've owned. Filter is super easy to get to. I use OEM Honda filters and Mobil1.
The oil change on the S2000 is the easiest compared to any of the other cars I've owned. Filter is super easy to get to. I use OEM Honda filters and Mobil1.
#6
The most important instruction to follow is the tightness of the oil filter. The filter should be screwed on to make contact then tightened another 7/8ths of a turn. The Honda PCX filter has the numbers 1-8 printed right on the side of the filter to make it easy to see how many 8ths you've turned the filter.
#7
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Originally Posted by LouisM,Nov 19 2006, 08:35 AM
I read that I have to get a new oil pan gasket. Filter recommendations?
Where did you read that information? I've done multiple oil changes on my car and can't imagine replacing an oil pan gasket. That would turn a minor 10 min. job into a major 2-3 hr. one. Maybe you meant to say you need to get a new "Crush Washer"? I would recommend... New oil filter(I use the OEM-PCX), crush washer (Honda OEM Part), and approx. 5 to 5 1/2 quarts of oil. I'm not sure how many miles are on your car...but I wouldn't switch to synthetic until 10K. You can do a search on oil to find out why.
An oil change is a very easy job. If you have a few long 2X10 boards to drive onto it makes access even easier.
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I agree, its rather simple. Most people recommend using the Honda PCX filter. Make sure they don't give you the other Honda filters used for all the other cars . . . some dealers think it is the same but it is NOT.
Other than that, jack it up, loosen the filter, pull the drain plug (17mm scoket), let all the oil drain out . . . while its draining pull the old filter off . . . lubricate the gasket seal on the new filter with some fresh oil (just a little), put on the new filter (follow the above directions, 7/8th of a turn past contact . . . . put drain plug in if is done draining, pour in engine oil. Our car takes somewhere around 5.5 quarts. I usually pour in 5 1/4 or so, then run the engine for a minute or so then check the dipstick and add the appropriate amount to get it full.
Other than that, jack it up, loosen the filter, pull the drain plug (17mm scoket), let all the oil drain out . . . while its draining pull the old filter off . . . lubricate the gasket seal on the new filter with some fresh oil (just a little), put on the new filter (follow the above directions, 7/8th of a turn past contact . . . . put drain plug in if is done draining, pour in engine oil. Our car takes somewhere around 5.5 quarts. I usually pour in 5 1/4 or so, then run the engine for a minute or so then check the dipstick and add the appropriate amount to get it full.
#10
Its just a straight forward oil change like any other car. Run the car up to operating temp, shut it off, remove the oil cap, jack up the car, unscrew the drain bolt, let the oil drain, remove the oil filter, replace the washer on the drain bolt (recommended, but not neccessary if its still good), replace the oil filter, but the drain bolt back in, fill it up, put the cap back on, and check your oil level so you can top it off if needed. No need to mess with the oil pan.